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Discussion Starter #1
:dunno: Well, I'm in the process of doing some trans work on my 16G and am having no luck removing my left wheel hub, right came off without too much difficulty. Have had the puller on it under constant pressure for a day, and have liberally used PB blaster to no avail....Can I safely use heat here, I'm planning on replacing oil seals as long as it's apart....Marty
 

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Have you given the puller shaft a good wack or two with a hammer? That always seems to work for me.

A little heat to the hub will be hard on the paint job, but will not hurt anything else.

I just pulled mine off last week to install my new steering brakes, set up the puller, got it tight, and gave a wack - second wack, off it popped!

When you put them back together, coat the axle ends with oil. It stops the rust and actually lets them tighten up better.

Sheldon
 

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Have you given the puller shaft a good wack or two with a hammer? That always seems to work for me.

A little heat to the hub will be hard on the paint job, but will not hurt anything else.

I just pulled mine off last week to install my new steering brakes, set up the puller, got it tight, and gave a wack - second wack, off it popped!

When you put them back together, coat the axle ends with oil. It stops the rust and actually lets them tighten up better.

Sheldon
That normally works for me too. Be sure to leave the nut on there loose or you may see them fly off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Don & Sheldon, Thanks for the reply, figured I'd give this one more try before lighting the torch. Keyway on the right hub was badly worn so much that key wasn't even in the slot,and was creating it's own path around the inside of the hub. Prev owner had wrong washer between hub nut and hub, and prevented hub from being drawn tight on axle. That hub I had to drive clockwise to get the key and slot lined up for removal. I didn't think this left hub had the same problem as the nut and washer were tight. Wrong...this one had to go counter clockwise to line up key and slot..... It's off and thanks for your help.....now to find some used hubs...axles are ok..Marty
 

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Don & Sheldon, Keyway on the right hub was badly worn so much that key wasn't even in the slot,and was creating it's own path around the inside of the hub. Prev owner had wrong washer between hub nut and hub, and prevented hub from being drawn tight on axle. That hub I had to drive clockwise to get the key and slot lined up for removal.
That's common on straight axle 400, 800, and 8000s, but rare on tappered axle G tractors. You can get the hubs new.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My 8162T, straight hubs, and have never had a problem with them and have had them off a couple of times.....I'll probably just order some new tapered ones if I don't find used by the time engine gets back from rebuilder....times growin short with snow in Pa. Marty
 

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You can Broch offset another keyway in the hub...
Not really that easy in this case - He has a 16G which has tappered axle ends, and thereby tappered holes in the hubs and the keyway follows the tapper - not a simple broch job.

My local machine shop said it would require making a jig that would cost more than a new hub.

Sheldon
 
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