By scaling up the dimensions for the 42" blade for my MF12, I came up with:
Wigth - 42" - Height - 16" - Curve - 3" deep.
Width - 48" - Height - 18" - Curve - 3 7/16" deep
Width - 54" - Height 20.5" - Curve - 3 7/8" deep
Blade material -1/8" plate with a 1/4 x 2" bolted on cutting edge. You might choose a 3" wide cutting edge with both edges sharpened to allow a quick change by reversing.
I did the same for scaling up the 54" bucket that is on my 1655 and it has worked fine for over 20 years. I would not recommend more than 54" wide for working dirt. Since snow is not one of the items that you are likely to push around, that much height may be unnecessary.
Anchor the 2x2x1/8 square tube blade harness (push frame) on the rear axle, either from the 3PH lugs or better, directly against the front of the axle tube with a steel strap around the back between the lugs on either side. The latter is how the subframe for my loader is secured and it makes an excellent mount. In addition, 3 cross members of the same material should be used for rigidity between the rails of the blade harness. It should end somewhere between the front and 6" in front of the tractor, maybe more depending on final configuration.
The mid lift cylinder should have no problem lifting it directly, either with a solid link to allow down pressure, or with chain to allow the blade to float.
A scissors support can be installed using existing holes in the frame, either ahead of or behind the front axle, for better lateral stability. This consists of a squared 'U' bracket pivoting on the blade harness and connected to a pair of straps hanging down from the frame for the hinge of the scissors. The combination should be longer than the maximum that the cylinder will allow the blade harness to lower at the point of connection. It should always have at least a slight bent knee configuration. These parts can be as light as 1/4 x 1.5" flatstock, although 3/8" thick wouldn't hurt.
Connecting the blade to the harness will depend on whether it will be a straight only or angling blade, but that shouldn't be difficult to figure out.
Wigth - 42" - Height - 16" - Curve - 3" deep.
Width - 48" - Height - 18" - Curve - 3 7/16" deep
Width - 54" - Height 20.5" - Curve - 3 7/8" deep
Blade material -1/8" plate with a 1/4 x 2" bolted on cutting edge. You might choose a 3" wide cutting edge with both edges sharpened to allow a quick change by reversing.
I did the same for scaling up the 54" bucket that is on my 1655 and it has worked fine for over 20 years. I would not recommend more than 54" wide for working dirt. Since snow is not one of the items that you are likely to push around, that much height may be unnecessary.
Anchor the 2x2x1/8 square tube blade harness (push frame) on the rear axle, either from the 3PH lugs or better, directly against the front of the axle tube with a steel strap around the back between the lugs on either side. The latter is how the subframe for my loader is secured and it makes an excellent mount. In addition, 3 cross members of the same material should be used for rigidity between the rails of the blade harness. It should end somewhere between the front and 6" in front of the tractor, maybe more depending on final configuration.
The mid lift cylinder should have no problem lifting it directly, either with a solid link to allow down pressure, or with chain to allow the blade to float.
A scissors support can be installed using existing holes in the frame, either ahead of or behind the front axle, for better lateral stability. This consists of a squared 'U' bracket pivoting on the blade harness and connected to a pair of straps hanging down from the frame for the hinge of the scissors. The combination should be longer than the maximum that the cylinder will allow the blade harness to lower at the point of connection. It should always have at least a slight bent knee configuration. These parts can be as light as 1/4 x 1.5" flatstock, although 3/8" thick wouldn't hurt.
Connecting the blade to the harness will depend on whether it will be a straight only or angling blade, but that shouldn't be difficult to figure out.
