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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 165 hydro quit moving and I isolated the issue to the drive belt. I removed the deck and when I got under to study the routing something didn't look right. I got a step by step online of how to change the belt and from a member here who wrote up directions. However the internet one with pics shows one more pulley than I have (In picture red arrow is where I think a pulley should be). Here are a couple of pics of mine. If someone can tell me for certain it is missing, I would appreciate it. It looks like I might have to take the engine out to install a new one which may be beyond my abilities and I can't pay JD. They appear to have routed the last drive belt around the same side of steering shaft (see yellow arrows in pic) to give the belt enough tension for it move around yard and to be sold. They gave me a new drive belt when I bought it and said the old one was good.
 

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Doesn’t look to me like you are missing anything. Looks just like my 165. The belt is supposed to be on the right side of the steering shaft. Tension is achieved by a spring-loaded idler pulley in the back near the hydro fan. Check back there for problems

Been a few years since I changed my drive belt but I am certain the engine doesn’t have to be removed to do it.

If you are having problems getting the tractor to move check the simple stuff first. Is the parking brake released? Also make sure the hydro bypass is not stuck open (in). The release lever operates a plunger on the front of the hydro unit. Sometimes these can stick in. Cycle the lever a couple of times and make sure it isn’t sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was just comparing the pics I got online to mine and it had a pulley there. The belt was off of the tensioner at the back so I'm not sure how to adjust it. I don't know how to route the belt. I'll go mess with it a bit more. I'll add the pic that confused me... It shows another pulley and it appears that the belt is on both sides of the steering.

Thanks for the help
 

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Here is a photo of the belt routing through the idlers.


 

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The extra pulley doesn’t look factory. It looks like a retrofit, but I suppose it worked fine.

The drive belt routing on the 165 is a bit strange looking. Seems to have the potential for a bunch of rubbing and interference. However my first belt was still working after 20 years so I guess the engineers did OK with the design.
 

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My 165 hydro quit moving and I isolated the issue to the drive belt. I removed the deck and when I got under to study the routing something didn't look right. I got a step by step online of how to change the belt and from a member here who wrote up directions. However the internet one with pics shows one more pulley than I have (In picture red arrow is where I think a pulley should be). Here are a couple of pics of mine. If someone can tell me for certain it is missing, I would appreciate it. It looks like I might have to take the engine out to install a new one which may be beyond my abilities and I can't pay JD. They appear to have routed the last drive belt around the same side of steering shaft (see yellow arrows in pic) to give the belt enough tension for it move around yard and to be sold. They gave me a new drive belt when I bought it and said the old one was good.
I think you're right that you may be missing an idler. The belt should go on either side of the steering shaft. My 175 isn't here but I'll go check my 185 and they should be similar. Even if it turns out that you are missing that pulley there's two conclusions I would NOT jump to:

1) You have to remove the engine. I can't tell but the pulley bolt may be a carriage bolt that goes through a slot.
2) You can't remove the engine. Even if it is necessary to move or remove the engine I think if you can change the drive belt you can remove the engine. I'd expect that after you pull the PTO (required to change the drive belt) pulling the engine would require disconnecting the fuel line and one or two wiring connectors and the motor mount bolts. Definitely some back strain but I'd bet it can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I managed to get it on, the wheels turned etc but when I inspected it seemed like the belt was rubbing in spots and I thought that can't be right. So I pulled it back down and now am stuck trying to get it on again. I'm done for the night. Any chance you could get a pick of the belt at the engine how it goes around the steering shaft?
 

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Hope this helps. There is no pulley missing from my tractor. I bought the tractor new 23 years ago and have mowed grass every summer and plowed snow every winter. I agree that the belt routing seems strange, however it works fine. There is a rub mark on the steering shaft but it doesn’t seem to matter. I changed the belt about 3 years ago as a preventive maintenance item. At that time the old belt was still working fine.








 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Abumpa, Thanks very much in advance for your pics. I am probably not going to be able to finish until Friday. I have a cell culture class that I have a bunch of crap due on Thurs and Fri. I am right before finals week. One more question since I cant seem to find this tidbit either. As the belt comes from the engine pulley towards the hydro, at one point it Twists to hit the vertical pulleys. If one were standing behind the tractor, would the belt twist down to the left or to the right? I am thinking it twists down to the left. I think that determines which part of the belt is on top to return to the front. I am also taking pics step by step to maybe help the next guy who has this problem. I also took step by step pics of removing the deck and changing its belt. The drive belt is a lot harder when you couldn't tell how it was routed to begin with lol.
 

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I couldn't see whether the 185 has the idler pulley by the crankshaft from the angles I could get to last night. But the drive belt definitely does go past either/both sides of the steering shaft on both my 175 and 185. I think 165 has a different hydro so maybe they routed the belt differently.
 

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The 185 I had a idler pulley by the crankshaft. I had to replace it and the belt on mine. This pic helped me when I put the belt on my 185.
Kyle

 

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Standing behind the tractor the belt coming off the right side of the drive pulley twists down to the left. It goes over the smaller grooved stationary idler pulley in a normal fashion, then around the movable (larger of the 2 idlers) flat surface idler with the back (wide portion) of the belt contacting the flat of the idler. Then normally (thin side down in groove) around the grooved pulley with fan on the hydro, then returns (1/4 twist right) to the drive pulley on the same side of the steering (just touching) shaft.


This photo is not from behind the tractor. I am not able to take photos from the back as to much stuff is in the way. This photo is from the middle of the tractor looking back at the idlers and hydro.




Here is a photo of the drive pulley. As you can see there is no other pulley.

 

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Only things I can guess:

The idler pulley seems to be necessary to get the belt to clear the other side of the steering shaft.

The 175 and 185 have idlers. 165 is the only mid/late-1980s 100 series tractor I've never seen (I own/owned the rest except 170 and a friend has one of those) so maybe they're different. Never fooled with the drive belt on my 160 before I sold it. The fact that there's two of you that have 165s set up the same way means maybe that's the way its supposed to be on that model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got all three of the belts changed. I don't remember the exact numbers but it turns out the the 165 series has and doesn't have a pulley there. Somewhere over the 400000 mark they added a pulley. mine is in the 368000 area. I did take some pics that I will post here in case someone else runs into this issue. I also have step by step pics on taking the deck off that someone might use. (maybe a different post)
:trink39:
 

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I hate to bring back an old thread but i was wondering about the idler pully on my 165. My belt is currently routed correctly but it is running against the steering column. Is this going to be okay or am I doing something wrong. The area where it is running is smooth and round I just worry about it failing due to the friction. I am not Sure how old the previous belt was so I dont know if the rubbing is what caused it to fail or not.

I am thinking of ordering an idler pulley setup for a 175 just in case. Would it work on a 165?


The attached image is the image from the first page. the arrow shows where my belt is rubbing
 

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both sides

laying under it and looking up the left side leads to the other idlers the right side leads straight to the tranny the right side rubs on the left side of the steering column. I noticed the 175's have a idler pulley there to keep it away from the column but my 165 doesnt have it but does have the mounting holes for it
 

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I'd expect them to both have the same idler setup since the main difference between 165 and 175 is the motor size. That said, the 165 is the one model of mid 80s 100 series tractors I've never laid eyes on other than pictures.
 
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