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Too young to act this old
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Discussion Starter #1
I normally would have put this in my original thread of not starting.
Thought that one was getting long. Some of you reading this will know most of the time line but for those of you just checking in here is a summary. Since replacement engine has been installed.

1 Replaced engine with used one.
2 Engine ran but got very hot.
3 Cleaned carb. Same thing.
4 Lapped and ground valves. Removed a lot of carbon build up.
5 Ran good for a bit, but same problem.
6 Realized vavle seat was loose. Center punched and ran great for about a half hour.
7 Valve seat did not come out but was spinning. Tightened with more center punch.
8 Ran, but rough and lacked power.
9 Took apart again to check vavle seat and found the lash disappeared. Ground and lapped valves. Seat had not come loose.
10 Starts normally for the Kawasaki fb460v. Runs okay when cold and warming up. Then begins to lose power. I have run 3 times the amount of sea foam through the system. The lack of power seems worse than when the valve seat was the problem. Also, there seems to be some sort of balance issue between idle and full throttle. I does not seem to get as hot as before.
One more statement before I ask the questions.
Top right head bolt is some what stripped. I know the threads are limited. I do intend to repair with a longer bolt and nut or helicoil. I have re-used the head gasket, but do not feel it is leaking. There is no visual signs nor does a shot of fluid make the engine surge.

So, you can see all the questions. Here are the ones that I have:
What happens if the valve lash is too great?
What caused my valve lash to disappear?
And a hundred other questions I can't think of right now. I am a cheap guy who doesn't like/have a lot of money to spend. So, I am into this thing. But I want to do it for very little.

Thanks in advance to all for information.
 

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Too young to act this old
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It almost seems a little lean. Not quite golden. More of a copper color. I am using an Autolite plug that was recommended in the book at the store because they did not have the correct Champion or NGK. I will have to stop at the store. I have turned out the adjustment screw to 1 1/4 from the 1 1/8 recommended.
 

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Too young to act this old
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So I checked compression, cold about 50 and hot between 95 and 100. I am attempting a leak down test, but that is easier said than done. I am leaning towards a carburetor issue, because the lack of power starts from the get go. It does not seem to have to get warmed up. I remedied that head bolt with no threads to a custom nut and longer bolt. What my new question is: the crank seems to get really warm. It holds the heat a long while too. Is this normal? I don't think that crank bearings are bad because there is no "play" that I can feel when going back and forth in rotation. All around it just sounds like and engine that is tired. It just doesn't seem like it with compression numbers and such.
 

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Too young to act this old
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I may have to appologize later for wasting time and space on here. I think that I may have figured out my problem. The idler pulley that works for the transaxle was for the most part siezed and worn out. That is what was causing the drag on the engine and causing it to get hot. I think. Assumed that something like that would have fried the belt. I guess it was slipppery enough to just drag. I hope to find a new or used pulley tomorrow. Preferrably a new one since they are not rebuildable. I will post Friday or Saturday with an update and some pics of the the machine.

Thanks all.
 

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Too young to act this old
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So, the replaced pulley really did not make any difference. 10 15 minutes of mowing still seems to drag the motor down to the beginning of an over heat situation. The deck belt seems very tight, but all is loose and turning with some drag. Bearings are good on the deck. There is a lot of deflection with the drive belt. I am running out of ideas. I changed the oil today. I am beginning to think the carb has some sort of issue. But, it starts fine and when I kick the choke at mowing speed just to see what happens, the motor instantly wants to die. Any one have any suggestions? I am completely lost now. Is the drive belt deflection doing it? Is the deck belt too tight? Motor to deck that is. Could worn belts be doing it? It seems like it is always under significant load. I read online today that the clearance in the pto clutch is supposed to be .012, is this true? Are there adjustments for the clutch? Could I have the wrong clutch? Does it matter? My engine seems to be excessively noisey. Kind of sounds like a recoil that is not feeding the rope back in. Anyone heard any thing like that before? I will take any and all suggestions. The simpler the better, I seem to jinx myself so here is where I will leave it. Oh yeah, no one really wants to see pics a junk yard car, why would you want one of a junk lawn mower? When it is running good or in the classified section I will post pics. Not real proud of the machine right now.
 

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9,751 Posts
KATT does !!!!!!

Want to see the deck belts and pulleys
 

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Run ahead of the pack
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Do you have any thing that could take the temperature of the engine like a laser/heat gun?

From your answer above if the spark plug are the right color that's mean the motor is not overheating.

You definitely need to determinate the engine temp with some kind of gage.
 

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Too young to act this old
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I will see what i can do after work today about what the belts look like. One other question is....... My tractor falls into that above 4 serial number range do I need to have the other idler pulley under the motor? I saw another post on here about that. Under the 4 did not have it, 4 and above did have it.
 

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