[MikeXcr600]

Hello everyone, this is my first time posting over on the cub side, and also the first cub I've ever owned. I have a issue with the hydro unit, I will first start by saying i have owned a john Deere 316 and 317 and i'm comparing the cub 1641 to them as far as the hydro control lever goes. The john Deere had a smooth motion from forward to reverse, The cub when going from forward to neutral or reverse to neutral comes to a very dead stop when it hits neutral, then slowly engaging in either direction is very aggressive, for example if in reverse and you move the lever to neutral, it comes to a dead stop flinging your body over the steering wheel, then you slide forward and it practically throws you over the back of the seat, and pops a small wheelie. Does anyone have any suggestions. Ps the hydro doesn't make any whine noises, or grinding, and does not creep while in neutral

 

[TUDOR]

The linkages are worn and sloppy or out of adjustment.

 

[RBedell]

The linkages are worn and sloppy or out of adjustment.

X 2 ..................:fing32:

 

[MikeXcr600]

I removed the cover over the floor pan, and the linkages are defiantly not sloppy, don't appear to be worn. If they were out of adjustment wouldn't the tractor creep forward or backward

 

[Oaktodd]

That's a pretty common issue with the Hydro Gear transmission that they put in the 1641. I had an 1863 that was the same way. It was kinda jerky but not throw you over the hood jerky. Have you changed the Hytran out of the rear. Not sure if that will help but maybe worth a try.

 

[TUDOR]

Somewhere between the control handle and the swash plate there is wear/slop.

Exterior linkages are the first thought, but there is also a wear point on the interior.

Variable displacement piston pumps are inherently balanced. They want to stay in a neutral (no pumping) attitude, or something very close to neutral that doesn't generate much by way of pressure. Any slop will first have to be taken up before the swash plate begins to move, If there is no slop after that point, the swash plate jumps to the correct position, and the tractor accelerates rapidly to the speed that the flow dictates.

Picture a round shaft with wear from a rocking motion. The wear is only on a portion of the circumference. Once past that wear area, the action tightens up.

Check for wear at the neutral position. Any motion of the drive control from neutral should also result in a corresponding motion of the swash plate trunnion shaft where it enters the hydro case.

A hydro swash plate only has 15 -20° of deflection available in either direction. A small amount of wear in the wrong place can cause your problem.

It is a mechanical, as opposed to a fluid, problem.

 

[MikeXcr600]

The I sprayed some wd on each linkage, and particularly where two plate come together and pivot on a bolt, worked the control lever back and forth over and over and it seemed to free up the control lever without tractor running. Once i fired it up , it operates better but still not what I would call great. Another issue I have is the lever itself has been bent to stay in line with the forward slot, The neutral switch seems to be disabled,

 

[Cubby1872]

The I sprayed some wd on each linkage, and particularly where two plate come together and pivot on a bolt, worked the control lever back and forth over and over and it seemed to free up the control lever without tractor running. Once i fired it up , it operates better but still not what I would call great. Another issue I have is the lever itself has been bent to stay in line with the forward slot, The neutral switch seems to be disabled,

I'm just wondering, you talked about looking at all the linkage but never said anything about this little spring (about 2" long????) You might need to remove the seat & fenders to get to it. Sometimes they get weak and or break.

P.N. 932-0330 around 5 dollars at your local dealer

 

[MikeXcr600]

I was able to get under the tractor and the spring seems to be there and tight by the touch of a finger I haven't pulled the seat pan yet to inspect

 

[Cubby1872]

Do you have someone that can move hydro lever while under tractor? Please be safety minded with engine turned off and wearing glasses to avoid dirt in the eyes. I believe you won't need to remove the seat and fenders. If it stays tight under lever movement, it's most likely good.

 

[MikeXcr600]

I haven't had a chance to try that out cubby1872 Ive had some other issues that needed addressed first. The PTO went to crap, ordered a new one and realized there wasn't a spacer on the old one between the block and pto. Ordered both and got it together then broke the belt, ordered a factory replacement which appeared to be way to large and sloppy, swapped it out for a shorter belt and seems to work great know. However the tractor is not charging with pto or lights on. I put a brand new battery in when i bought it so I believe that is why i am just now realizing its draining.