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Discussion Starter #1
A couple of moths ago I got a ?1976? Sears with a 16HP Tech engine. When I got it it was running fine. I stored it over at my brother's place and he had moved it a couple times no issue. He recently went to move it and it wouldn't start. I was over there today and we know it has spark. We gave it a shot of starting fluid just to see if it would fire and it ran the second or two until the ether ran out. with that I suspect no stuck valves, correct? The fuel lines felt cold so we assume there was gas moving thru them at least to the fuel pump. What's my next step. I assume the fuel filter and probably a carb cleaning. I know nothing about the walboro fuel pump on the side of the carb.

I know this is going to sound funny but I would have no issue tearing into a '76 Chevy 350 but small engines scare me. Once this one is done I have to get the '67 Suburban up and running and finish of the '77 18/6 so I feel the need for a confidence builder.

Here's a pick from the day we got it.
 

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You could pull the gas line off the carb, turn the engine over to see if it's pumping gas. If not make sure the tank and lines are clear, then the pump. There is a vac line that runs the pump, going from thr block to the pump, make sure that's intack.

There is a good Tecumseh manual "8 to 18 cast iron engines" here some place, google it. It has step by step carb and pump work.

If you can fix a car, you fix these also. Same trouble shooting, just smaller engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank, Small Fry! I downloaded the manual. I've got some reading to do. This one is meant to be my workhorse so I'd like it up and running before the snow flies. Ugh- I hate the though of the white stuff.
 

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Do as SmallFry says and I will add if these are original fuel lines, it's probably time to change. If I remember correctly 4' of hose will do the whole job. Additional hang-up points for fuel flow can be at the strainer screen in the tank to hose barb fitting and the fuel shut off valve mounted in the engine coweling.
 

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I bought a '77 ST16 recently, if you can tear into a SBC, this is s breeze, I was in same boat and a little intimidated, but not a problem. You can take off the rectangular valve cover off the top and check to make sure you have vavle movement, but sounds okay if it ran on ether. These motors are very prone to overheating and dropping the valve seat out of the head, mine is sitting right now for that same reason. Sounds like yours maybe fuel related though so I would exhaust that avenue first. Make sure all the head/motor fins and under the shrouds are very clean and free of debris. Mice had built a nest under mine, cause it to overheat and drop the seat.
Keep us updated.
 

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if my tec 14 sits for a while i usually have to prime it by taking the air pre filter and filter off, then i take a quarter full turkey baster of gas and shoot it down the carb. it usually takes a couple times to get it started but after that it starts right up everytime
 

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Nice tractor Pete all the above advice is good since it worked good before perhaps water is in the carb bowl and fuel tank also you"ll know if you remove bowl.
 

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I have a ST16 that is always hard to start after sitting a few weeks, the fuel drains back into the tank. I added a fuel shut off right at the carb and this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: I did a little digging today. While checking it out i noticed the fuel filter was dry but there was fuel in the tank. I pulled the hose off the carb/fuel pump and there was vacuum while cranking. So I put vacuum on the fuel line and fuel flowed. Reconnected everything and vr-vr-vr-VROOOMMMM - it started and ran. I kept a close eye and once I shut it down I saw the fuel draw back in the line past the filter. My guess is there is a bad seal or fuel line allowing just enough air to let the gas siphon back. Is it a good guess or has anybody seen this happen due to other causes?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a ST16 that is always hard to start after sitting a few weeks, the fuel drains back into the tank. I added a fuel shut off right at the carb and this helps.
.... and this is why I looked closely.

I'm thinking of adding a shutoff as close to the tank as is reachable.
 
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