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Jak
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My model is 136x694G401. I took the whole **** thing apart, bought a new steering shaft, and new bolts and washers. The gear thing has good teeth but I noticed it shifts away from the shaft so it does not engage. Why is that?

Also, has anyone rigged an entirely new steering sytem, like from a go kart? Anything has to be better than this crap.
 

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certified tractor nut
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1,424 Posts
if your steering shaft is shifting away from the other gear and jumping arround then you will have to replace the upper and lower bushings on the shaft as they are more than likely worn out
 

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Retired MTF Admin
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Welcome to MTF Jac,

Oh Boy...do I understand that nagging feeling!

I DID have the same problem, even after two sets of bushings in the steering gears. My problem is, even after a quick repair done correctly, my property just isn't nice and smooth for these type of LT's to endure for any length of time.

So.....I did this: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=88406


and I think it's fixed forever. Well, at least as long as the Craftsman lasts (which could be several years).

Good luck,

Mark
 

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Jak
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
AMF --
The gear plate shifts, not the shaft.

Mark --
Good stuff, but maybe my eyes got buggy. Where did you get the steering gearbox?
And I guess you had to rig it somehow to your existing connections. (My MTD has the side-arm that connects to the gear plate.)
Thanks.
 

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Retired MTF Admin
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AMF --
The gear plate shifts, not the shaft.

Mark --
Good stuff, but maybe my eyes got buggy. Where did you get the steering gearbox?
And I guess you had to rig it somehow to your existing connections. (My MTD has the side-arm that connects to the gear plate.)
Thanks.
It originally was a 10 to 1 gear reduction box for a comercial garage door (opener).

And yes, this is not the solution to fix an existing steering setup...but it is to replace one. The basic alterations were to make a new pitman arm, use a universal (impact socket) and shorten the original steering wheel shaft.

No, not the quick fix, but....the last one I'll ever do to this particular LT :D!
 

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My model is 136x694G401. I took the whole **** thing apart, bought a new steering shaft, and new bolts and washers. The gear thing has good teeth but I noticed it shifts away from the shaft so it does not engage. Why is that?

Also, has anyone rigged an entirely new steering sytem, like from a go kart? Anything has to be better than this crap.

You said you bought new bolts and washers. What about the bushing for the gear. One of the bolts that goes thru the gear has a bushing on it.

Did you replace the pivot bolt on the gear? These are almost always bad. Upgrade the pivot bolt to grade 8 if you need to replace it, and use a nylock nut on it.


The pivot bolt nut works loose one these and causes excessive war on the bolt and the gear. When I got my MTD the steering was awful. I found that the pivot bolt nut was missing and the bolt was almost completely worn thru.

Sometimes the only fix for these besides replacing the gear is drilling the hole in the gear bigger and going to the next size bolt.

I wish you luck and if you have any questions please ask.


Walter
 

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Jak
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all your help!

Mark -- I am all for doing a total replacement. I will have to search for a gearbox like that.

Walter -- I replaced both bolts washers and added lock nuts. I noticed when I tightened everything down it wouldn't move at all, so I had to loosen it. Should there be something between the gear plate and the small plate with 2 holes in it? I have seen some posts about teflon something (?). I do have the bell washer in place with the nut.
I dont see that bushing you mention on the pic from the MTD site. (To me, a bushing is a sleeve that goes over a bolt.) That may have been lost by the previous owner.
 

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It's listed as a spacer really a small bushing. The system won't work right witout it. Part number 13 on the link below part number 950-0535.

If your using a bell style washer with a locknut on the pivot bolt dont. Use a flat washer instead. Tidghten the bolt a little at a time if you overtighten it the steering wheel will get real tight or you won't be able to move it at all.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=mtd&mn=136X694G401+(1996)&dn=00943000002

Walter
 

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Jak
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Mark -- Thanks for the research. I need some schooling in that but I think it has some merit.

Walter -- I will get that bushing. The tightening will be tricky. Also, does the arm affect things? On mine, the arm rubs against the mower body, like it needs to be straightened.
 

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Jak
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Walter --
I have it apart and can see I do have the spacer. On the center bolt, I just have a flat washer. Is that correct? (hard to see in the MTD diagram.)
 

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Yes, that is correct. Double check and make sure there is no sideways play on the shaft and pinion. The bottom bushing is a hex bushing made out of plastic. If it's bad they are cheap 3.50.
 

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Jak
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Walter --
Works great and I am back on the road. Thanks for all your help!

Are you experienced with carb adjustment on this model? I get a lil backfire when I turn it off.
 

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Glad you got it fixed. I've noticed on mine if I shut it down to quick it will backfire. But if I idle all the way down and let it run for 15-30 seconds it's fine.

Walter
 

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Probably. Mine is louder than some of the other tractors I have. Even with a new muffler they aren't real quiet.

Walter
 
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