My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally making some progress on this project. Main chasis with wheels back together so I have a rolling chasis again. Most of the smaller parts have been sand blasted, primed & painted. I'll be back to blasting more parts this weekend.

It's missing the left & right hand side panels. I was looking through other manuals trying to find out what other models use the same panels. Looks like the H14 & H16 are the only ones that are the same, is this correct?
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
3,480 Posts
Looking very nice that is for sure. Do you use the same nuts and bolts over again?
 

· Bolens 1886-01
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
That is coming along very nice. On those side plates you are correct. The 1556, H14 and H16 are the same. The older 1256's had a different cutout. For sure you could download all those models parts lists and compare the part numbers.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since the 1556, H14, & H16 are the only ones with the same side panels, I'm guessing I'll be looking for a long time before I find any. Chances are most people took them off when doing maintenance and never put them back on since they don't serve a purpose.
 

· Bolens 1886-01
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
I bet they are on ebay fairly cheap I'd do some searches. I'll look and see what I have in my spare parts out back too.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
anyone have the seal number for the bottom of the hydrostatic (Eaton Model 10 I believe) where the speed control arm attaches. I put some fluid in it today and it started leaking, must have damaged it when I took the control arm off.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
anyone have the seal number for the bottom of the hydrostatic (Eaton Model 10 I believe) where the speed control arm attaches. I put some fluid in it today and it started leaking, must have damaged it when I took the control arm off.
I have been told that seal has to be replaced from the inside. I hope you find out different.
 
Joined
·
880 Posts
rays mower shop in pa might have them panels your looking for his number is 610 367 2078 or a fellow member blackjackjakexx.. your bolens looks like its going to be nice when its finished.. good luck an i hope find what your looking for
 

· Bolens 1886-01
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
anyone have the seal number for the bottom of the hydrostatic (Eaton Model 10 I believe) where the speed control arm attaches. I put some fluid in it today and it started leaking, must have damaged it when I took the control arm off.
Hi I replaced my eaton 10 seals.
I used SKF p/n 7414 for the control shaft
SKF p/n 7443 for the input shaft

They can cross reference them to other brands if they don't stock SKF. The control seal is a pain to replace, you need to take the hydro apart. I do have some pics of when I took mine apart if it helps.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Hi I replaced my eaton 10 seals.
I used SKF p/n 7414 for the control shaft
SKF p/n 7443 for the input shaft

They can cross reference them to other brands if they don't stock SKF. The control seal is a pain to replace, you need to take the hydro apart. I do have some pics of when I took mine apart if it helps.
I would love to see the pics.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi I replaced my eaton 10 seals.
I used SKF p/n 7414 for the control shaft
SKF p/n 7443 for the input shaft

They can cross reference them to other brands if they don't stock SKF. The control seal is a pain to replace, you need to take the hydro apart. I do have some pics of when I took mine apart if it helps.
I would love some pics. Never taken one apart before and I don't have any parts diagram for it. Always up for a challenge. Thanks for the part numbers. I guess I might as well change both if I have to take it apart.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finished blasting and painting the rest of the small stuff this weekend. Got a lot of body work to do on the seat pan, but putting that on the back burner for now. I'm going to tackle rebuilding the Eaton 10 since I've got a leak now. Got some good info and pics from ed-nh so that's next on the list before I start putting more together. Doesn't look to difficult, just don't lose the balls, ha ha.
 

· Bolens 1886-01
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
Finished blasting and painting the rest of the small stuff this weekend. Got a lot of body work to do on the seat pan, but putting that on the back burner for now. I'm going to tackle rebuilding the Eaton 10 since I've got a leak now. Got some good info and pics from ed-nh so that's next on the list before I start putting more together. Doesn't look to difficult, just don't lose the balls, ha ha.
Yah keep the balls in the right bores and watch out for the charge pump plate that you put it back in the right way , should have cw or ccw stamped on it so you don't want to get it in backwards...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Finally got back to work on the 1556. Haven't had a chance to work on it since I've been taking care of my dad for the last couple months, had heart problems & finally had open heart surgery, he's back home now and doin fine.

So, since my last post I did rebuild the Eaton 10, replaced the seals & took pics of every step of the disassembly process. It's back in & most of the tractor is back together. Painted the seat pan & dash tower last weekend. I'm working on sanding down the hood now. Picked up some side panels this winter so I should have a complete tractor now. I've been looking at different sources (maple hunter, sam's, sonny's) for decals but In the pictures it doesn't look like they come with the red stripe or dash panel decal, input appreciated! Also starting to think about tires. I plan to run ag tires on the back, not sure for the front. Should I keep it close to original or go with ags or ribs. I've read a few posts were people have said good things about using ribbed tires on front. Not sure which way to go yet. I plan on using the starter for pulling a disc for food plots and snowblowing and who knows what else I may use it for.
 

Attachments

· Bolens 1886-01
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
That is really looking nice. Did you use white or almond paint color? I wish you the best on your seal replacement on the hydro. One of mine still has a small leak even after replacing the seal. I think the aluminum boss inside where the control shaft goes in is worn. You will be happy with the snowblower. I took videos of mine and man it throws snow twice as far as my large frame single stage blower does, not sure if it is a speed thing or what. Have fun and keep the pictures coming.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,075 Posts
Wow that is looking really nice! Caint wait to see it when it's done.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That is really looking nice. Did you use white or almond paint color? I wish you the best on your seal replacement on the hydro. One of mine still has a small leak even after replacing the seal. I think the aluminum boss inside where the control shaft goes in is worn. You will be happy with the snowblower. I took videos of mine and man it throws snow twice as far as my large frame single stage blower does, not sure if it is a speed thing or what. Have fun and keep the pictures coming.
I took a small bracket with good paint on it and had it color matched so I had a gallon mixed so it's not really white or almond. So far so good on the hydro, no leaks, I've had fluid in it for a couple weeks now. I primed the system by wrapping a rope around the pulley on the drive shaft and pulled it over until I had fluid going to the filter so hopefully all is good. I'm curious to see how much difference their is with the snowblower on the 1556 vs the 1050. Guess I'll have to wait till next winter. Sunny & 74 here yesterday and it's mid march.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top