You need to ask this over on the John Deere forum. There will be a lot more help over there. Here is the link.
https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/
https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/
#15 fuse keeps popping
Hello! I inherited a John Deere Sabre 15hp riding lawnmower that worked but needed to be jumped started to run. I replaced the ignition switch and it worked great. But this spring I removed the mower deck to replace the blades. All was going well. I replaced the air filter, changed the filthy oil, lubed the grease points and put the deck back on. At that point, something went wrong. It no longer started. At this point I have now replaced the battery, solenoid and ignition switch. Every time I put a #15 fuse in and turn the ignition it pops and nothing is clicking. Just silence. I am so bummed! Is there anything I am not thinking of? I am not a mechanic (obviously) but would really like to get this thing running and not spend a fortune on a new mower.
Thanks for your thoughts!
-Brigid
Thanks for your thoughts!
-Brigid
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
I'd have to guess you have a bare wire somewhere causing a dead short. And more than likely outside of the protective loom. Is it doing it when you turn the switch to the run position, or turning it further to the start position..?? If it's the start position, you should be able to trace it back from the starter solenoid, by the color of the wire.
If you have a multi-meter, ** with the battery disconnected**, and a new fuse installed, you could do a continuity test, by placing one probe on a wire attached to the switch, then grounding the other probe to a bare spot on the frame, or battery ground cable. If it's popping the fuse in the run position, be sure and probe all of the wires at the switch, and trace them. If it's just doing it in the start position, then probe the wire that goes to the solenoid. Again, wiring is color coded, so look for the color of wire on the solenoid. Check the wire where it may have rubbed the frame, or passed through the frame, and possibly cutting/rubbing the sheath off the wire.
One more thing, if it happens to do it in the run position, I know some models of various brands years back, the headlights were on when running. Check that wiring too. Could be a wire got pinched, with opening, and closing the hood.
If you have a multi-meter, ** with the battery disconnected**, and a new fuse installed, you could do a continuity test, by placing one probe on a wire attached to the switch, then grounding the other probe to a bare spot on the frame, or battery ground cable. If it's popping the fuse in the run position, be sure and probe all of the wires at the switch, and trace them. If it's just doing it in the start position, then probe the wire that goes to the solenoid. Again, wiring is color coded, so look for the color of wire on the solenoid. Check the wire where it may have rubbed the frame, or passed through the frame, and possibly cutting/rubbing the sheath off the wire.
One more thing, if it happens to do it in the run position, I know some models of various brands years back, the headlights were on when running. Check that wiring too. Could be a wire got pinched, with opening, and closing the hood.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
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