Just got a new-to-me/used series 300 PTO clutch off of the auction site, arrived today. Long story short, I have a good field coil off a 300 series tractor that bolts right up to my 69 140 H1 Kohler engine block and works like a charm when energized. I plan on putting everything forward of the field coil from the old 140 PTO Clutch back on but there is a hitch. Slight binding when I try to put the key into the crankshaft slot and when I try to install the part that fits over the field coil...doesn't want to make a nice, smooth slip fit. The key fits into the crankshaft slot and slides freely back and forth, but won't slide right out of the end of the keyway on the crankshaft. It should, right? Don't want to be hammering this stuff on, so what's the best way to burnish/clean the crankshaft, keyway and other parts until I get a nice, smooth fit that doesn't require a hammer? That is what I want, right? Can't imagine trying to key the part that fits over the field coil back on and then beat it on. Should it fit down on the crankshaft until the key bottoms out in the crankshaft keyway, so that the field coil is basically entirely covered up? Thanks in advance.
140 PTO clutch fitment
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88 Dodge Snowfiter, 93 Dodge diesel, 02 Durango, 01 Electra, 02 Sportster, 2000 Dodge diesel 5 speed
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Get a big cotter pin (3-4" long) and some emery cloth. slide one end of the emery cloth in the slot of the cotter pin to the very head of it and wrap it around (counter clock wise) then put that in a drill, put it in the inside of the part that slides on the crank and drill away. This will clean up the inside of the PTO part.
Pull the key out of the crank and use the emery cloth like a shoe polish rag on the crank all the way around.
You may want to smooth the key off too or get a new one.
Then put a couple drops of engine oil on it or white lithium grease and smear it up good.
Pull the key out of the crank and use the emery cloth like a shoe polish rag on the crank all the way around.
You may want to smooth the key off too or get a new one.
Then put a couple drops of engine oil on it or white lithium grease and smear it up good.
Thanks for the tips. Went back and watched Mr. Beef's vid on changing a 318 PTO Clutch...which answers my question about tight fit. Mine is definitely in need of cleaning burnishing with emery cloth and I'll get started this evening. I thought I got a dinker used clutch until I installed it on the block and then tested the field coil...wouldn't hold a wrench just touching one corner to the Neg battery post and the power wire to the Pos battery post...connections are everything.
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Sounds like you got everything figured out.
I generally end up taking some 800 grit sand paper to the crank and the inside of the bearing on the clutch. Test fit and then on final install I put a dab of never-seize. (can't remember what I said in the video). You could beat on it to install but it makes it such a pain to get back off.... 15 mins of work now in a calm stress free environment saves 30 mins worth of frustration and dragging tools out later.
Ask me how I know that... :ROF... had to swap a PTO out on a 318 one time when the engine was hot to make a sale happen..... not fun!
I generally end up taking some 800 grit sand paper to the crank and the inside of the bearing on the clutch. Test fit and then on final install I put a dab of never-seize. (can't remember what I said in the video). You could beat on it to install but it makes it such a pain to get back off.... 15 mins of work now in a calm stress free environment saves 30 mins worth of frustration and dragging tools out later.
Ask me how I know that... :ROF... had to swap a PTO out on a 318 one time when the engine was hot to make a sale happen..... not fun!
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I remove the key from the crank and the the rotor can be spun on crank with somebody blaster to get the rust off and as Mbeef said some sanding and some lube,
Thanks guys. I was a bit flustered last night cause I finally got the part in and was under a deadline...which never works out in the shop. Now that I have backed off and seen/remembered how it's supposed to go together I can make a run at it calmly.
Well, no love this evening on the PTO clutch. Used emery cloth to burnish/clean the crankshaft and the inside of the plate that fits over the field coil, and the pulley/plate/assembly. Got the plate that fits over the field coil keyed onto the driveshaft but it won't slip down over the field coil far enough for the rest of the PTO assembly to fit correctly on the crankshaft. It all goes on the crankshaft, but then there is barely enough thread to start the lock nuts over the studs with springs. Took it all back apart and discovered that the field coils are not the same diameter...the 300 series field coil is fatter than the 140 field coil...not by much, but enough that the plate won't slip down over the field coil. So I am hosed on this one...back to square one looking for a 140 field coil. Note: the tip to use emery cloth to clean the parts works great, especially the tip to use a long cotter pin with emery clotch wrapped around it and the cotter pin keyed into a drill...excellent idea/tip/tool. Moral of the Story: a John Deere 314 PTO clutch WILL NOT FIT a John Deere 140 H1 as a replacement. Different field coil widths/thicknesses and different size bearings/bushings. Live and learn.
Okay, got a PTO clutch off an H3 140...also courtesy of the auction site. Same scenario: Field coil bolts on and has strong pull under power...rest of it won't fit over the crankshaft. I can get the old 140 clutch plate (the part that keys to the crankshaft and fits over the field coil) to slide and key onto the crankshaft but it doesn't slip completely down over the field coil unless I coax it a little with a small rubber mallet. Should this keyed plate cover the field coil completely?...I can get it completely over the field coil, but it seems like too tight a fit. If I don't coax it further down the shaft over the field coil, there isn't enough thread on the four studs with springs to put the lock nuts on.
Thanks for the input. I can get the hub and key on the crankshaft all right...question is, how far back should the rotor go? All the way over the field coil and sit flush against the backing plate on the field coil? Or out a little?...not all the way over the field coil? If it has to slip over the field coil completely, I'm gonna be making a trip to the local machine shop to have them remove a little of the inside lip of the rotor. It will go over the field coil completely but drags on the outside edge of the field coil...doesn't seem right to me like that.
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ok,if it drags,loosen the bolts that hold the fwc on the block,it isn't centered yet,loosen the bolts.slide the rotor on tighten the bolts ,leave key out and you can spin the rotor to see that the rotor isn't contacting the coil,otherwise it will burn your new one up.
Yep, that was also a thought I had earlier...field coil isn't centered. But even off the motor, with field coil flat on the workbench, the rotor only fits over the outside of the field coil using a little force/down pressure. I've cleaned the inside lip/edge of the rotor a lot with emery cloth and it's better than it was, but still only goes over the field coil with some pressure...doesn't fit loosely enough to spin around the coil freely. My best guess is that field coils made for later model 140 H3's and the 300-series tractors have a sightly large outside diameter than the burnt out field coil that was on my 1969 140 H1. I'm gonna drop by a local machine shop today and see if they can chuck the rotor in a lathe and take a little off the inside lip/edge of the rotor...a very tiny amount, either by using abrasives or lightly milling it out.
Dropped it off at a local machine shop yesterday. Re-read the instructions for centering a new field coil last night...it recommends wrapping the outside diameter edge of the field coil 3X with 3/4-inch masking tape to use a guide to rubbing/friction when centering it under the rotor. Will know later today if the shop work meets this test. Thanks for your help...I are slow at times, but can't learn without asking pesky questions.
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Good you have a handle on the issue,most everybody has made the mistake of tightening the 3 bolts first,me included,but your rotor must different from original.
Machine shop took a little off the inside rim of the rotor yesterday, but just shy of being enough. I'll take it back on Monday. Almost fits over the field coil with three wraps of masking tape on the outside edge, but not quite...per the instructions for centering a new field coil.
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Take the coil with you so they can measure it for the correct dimension.
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