My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A buddy of mine offered to sell his 140 to me with a deck, tiller and blade ect. He said the head bolts won't stay tight though. Said after a couple hours or less of run time you have to re-tighten the head bolts.

Is there a trick to keeping the head bolts from coming loose all the time on a 140?

EDIT: I believe its a 1970-ish model.
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
9,006 Posts
Probably have been used too much and the threads are bad.just replace them with new correct ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I asked him about the bolts he said they are new and it still does it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Just out of curiosity, what would the tractor be worth with the attachments? It seems to be in fair condition other than the head bolt problem.
 

·
Likes Vintage JDs
Joined
·
9,875 Posts
That is a nice package with those attachments. Hard to give an idea on price, though, without more info.

Do you know whether it is an H1 or H3 version? Does it have a 3PH? Rear hydro outlets? Does the tiller come with the rear pto? What year is it? Photos?

Another way to get an idea on pricing us to scour crsigslit and see what folks are asking.
 

·
Three of my friends
Joined
·
9,006 Posts
You can try some sort of lock washer on them OR drill a hole through the top like an aviation bolt and safety wire them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Just a idea,why not pull the head ,drill one size over and cut new threads.You may be able to dril and put a heliacoil in the head to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
I'm not sure I'd trust a helicoil to something as critical as the torque on a head bolt.

Regardless of what the PO said, I'd get new head bolts. If it was one or two getting loose, I'd say it could be something else, but all of them...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok, thanks for the ideas. I'll let him know. Also would some kind of light duty high temp lock tight work?

UrbanTractor- Yes it would be a nice setup with the attachments. Not sure if its h1 or h3 ect. I know its around a 1970 model if I remember correctly. I hav'nt looked at it in person in a while, I might go look it over sometime. :thThumbsU
I know the tiller works on the tractor. The pto is belt driven I think.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,363 Posts
Ok, thanks for the ideas. I'll let him know. Also would some kind of light duty high temp lock tight work?

UrbanTractor- Yes it would be a nice setup with the attachments. Not sure if its h1 or h3 ect. I know its around a 1970 model if I remember correctly. I hav'nt looked at it in person in a while, I might go look it over sometime. :thThumbsU
I know the tiller works on the tractor. The pto is belt driven I think.
Without the specifics I would say the package might sell from 1500 to 3000 in most cases. 1500 for an H1 with the tiller and 2 way blade and 3000 for a really good condition H3 with a tiller and 4 way blade with rear hydros... maybe.

Blades run about 400 for 2 way and 500-600 for 4 way. Tillers run about 400-600 depending on condition from what I have seen so figure 1000 for attachments. then 1000-2000 for the tractor itself. then add a little discount since it is a one stop shop.

Good luck.

As a side note, those loose head bolts can kill one of these k321's (personal experience) Check it over well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok. The price he quoted sounds about fair then. Thanks
 

·
Proud JD Owner
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Loctite.
 

·
Diesel Power
Joined
·
5,340 Posts
Loctite is a bad idea on head bolts. It does not withstand high temperature well. It might also prevent you from getting the right torque which is key to head bolts. You need clean dry bolts for the proper torque...which brings up another point. Make sure there is no oil or grease on the bolt threads or down the holes in the head. Clean everything well. If those lubricants were present it might aid in the bolts backing out.
 

·
Proud JD Owner
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Loctite is a bad idea on head bolts. It does not withstand high temperature well. It might also prevent you from getting the right torque which is key to head bolts. You need clean dry bolts for the proper torque...which brings up another point. Make sure there is no oil or grease on the bolt threads or down the holes in the head. Clean everything well. If those lubricants were present it might aid in the bolts backing out.
I respectfully disagree. Blue 242 is good for 300 degrees. Loctite is used all over the world to hold everything together from cars to motorcycles and aircraft. I think it can hold the head bolts on a 140 JD just fine.
 

·
Likes Vintage JDs
Joined
·
9,875 Posts
Without the specifics I would say the package might sell from 1500 to 3000 in most cases. 1500 for an H1 with the tiller and 2 way blade and 3000 for a really good condition H3 with a tiller and 4 way blade with rear hydros... maybe.

Blades run about 400 for 2 way and 500-600 for 4 way. Tillers run about 400-600 depending on condition from what I have seen so figure 1000 for attachments. then 1000-2000 for the tractor itself. then add a little discount since it is a one stop shop.

Good luck.

As a side note, those loose head bolts can kill one of these k321's (personal experience) Check it over well.
I agree with Mr Beef's average price range. There are just so many variables (condition, configuration, etc) that it's difficult to get any more precise without seeing the actual tractor. Keep in mind, a trashed beater could fall below this range, and a pristine example with all the goodies could be well above. Your friend's sounds like it falls near the upper-middle, if the headbolts aren't creating "issues."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
626 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
He said in the manual specifically not to use lok tite, so I guess that would be out of the picture or a last resort. I'll find out if the bolts were installed dry.

As for the condition, I'd say mid average if I remember correctly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,747 Posts
I would suggest that you find and repair the original problem. "K" engines have run for generations without this problem. I would suspect the cooling system is clogged and overheating the head, or the bolts are the incorrect length and bottoming in their holes. If the timing is too far advanced and the engine is pinging, I would imagine that could loosen the bolts too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,620 Posts
If the bolts are new as stated, check to be sure he used the correct grade. I see lots of hardware store, grade 2, where 5 or 8 should be. They will stretch and loosen.

There threads are also less that precise, many of them are really undersized.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
If the bolts are new as stated, check to be sure he used the correct grade. I see lots of hardware store, grade 2, where 5 or 8 should be.
Good point! Generally speaking hardware store variety Grade 2 bolts will have no markings on the head; Grade 5 will have 3 lines; and Grade 8 will have 6 lines.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top