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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 1315 a few months ago. The guy told me that sometimes it will not start but I needed to rock it back and forth and make sure it was in neutral. He thought the neutral switch was going up.

Well went to start it the other day and no matter what I did would not turn over. I replaced the switch that contacts the shift lever. still no good. What else should I check/ replace.... Theres a switch that I think is for the reverse cut off and the selenoid back by the battery.

PLEASE HELP !!!
 

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if you don't got, here'a a link to a manual for that model: http://www.ihregistry.com/manuals/op/1315.pdf
And before you start changing out stuff, best to find out what is/ain't defective - get your VOM or 12v test lite - clean all start circuits connections to bare clean metal - resecure - check batt voltsge - s/b 12.7vdc or better at rest - then ck to see if you are getting power to the small starter solenoid post when turning key to start position - if no 12v, find out why (usually bad ign sw or safety interlock) - if OK, use known good different battery and jumper cables to see if starter will energize - if not, remover starter, take to shop for bench chk.

One of the above tests should pinpoint yer prob - If you don't feel comfy about doing such, prolly time to get a pro service involved.
Post back with updates. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced the neutral switch as I thought it was bad... but will start looking at the points you raise. The starter solenoid, is this the one by the battery?
 

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How-Dee Remist- Do you have a good ground connection? If so- bypass all of the switches and stuff and (safely) put a positive feed to the little wire nut on the starter solenoid. (Make sure thare are no gas leaks in area!) If the starter cranks it is one of those pesky switches or interlocks or the ignition switch itself.. Take your test light and start at the ignition switch and first find the 12+ feed into the switch to make sure power is getting there and there isn't a blown fuse or bad connection. Then find the wire that turns on (lights the light) when you turn the key to the "start" position and chase that wire through all of the switches and connections while you turn the key to trace the circuit and find the faulty connection or component. Keep in mind that while you do this that the potential is there to create a spark so be careful around any fuel/vapor locations. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How-Dee Remist- Do you have a good ground connection? If so- bypass all of the switches and stuff and (safely) put a positive feed to the little wire nut on the starter solenoid. (Make sure thare are no gas leaks in area!) If the starter cranks it is one of those pesky switches or interlocks or the ignition switch itself.. Take your test light and start at the ignition switch and first find the 12+ feed into the switch to make sure power is getting there and there isn't a blown fuse or bad connection. Then find the wire that turns on (lights the light) when you turn the key to the "start" position and chase that wire through all of the switches and connections while you turn the key to trace the circuit and find the faulty connection or component. Keep in mind that while you do this that the potential is there to create a spark so be careful around any fuel/vapor locations. Good luck!
Dumn question.... Basically I need to run a wire from the Positive side battery to starter (one long wire)?

Grounds have not checked... Assuming the main ground from battery is #1?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well tried to jump the selenoid and nothing. so I am thinking bad selenoid ? (by battery) any thoughts?
 

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remist17 lift the hood and try rotating the drive shaft a turn or so. On occasion I have to do that with the 1440.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
how would I rotate the driveshaft? Do I need to take the shroud off the motor? or can I rotate it by the drive pulley underneith?
 

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Sorry but I've been utta town on vacation.. Install the test light on the battery neg and test to the solenoid positive (big) wire (one of the sides w/big wires should be hot).. If it lights brightly we have a good ground. If so take some automotive jumper cables and use one side to jump from one big wire to the other big wire for a second.. (be careful!) Does the starter go? If so the solenoid is the culprit..
 

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I have a 1315 , they are not equipped with a driveshaft , they are belt drive.
Mine started doing the same thing and the key switch and the plug on the back was toast. I replaced the switch and cleaned the plug as best as i could and working so far. Hold your key all the way over to start and then wiggle the plug on the back at the same time , see if you get anything.


Also , there is a fuse holder back by your battery/solenoid. I run into the same no start problem and the fuse had blown .
 

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Hi all, new to the forum here...
Little late here on the post but I have a 1315 also with the same exact problem, I stopped the machine to run inside and grab a beer and came out to start it and... nothing... Not even a sound when turning the key. I looked up the diagram for it and it did indeed say there was a fuse holder and fuse near the battery under the seat but to my surprise there wasn't a fuse! I have not gone through it yet to troubleshoot it but I was able to hook up some jumper cables to the starter itself and it started just fine. My guess would be the solenoid because the battery is brand new and it started by the starter but it could be the ignition switch also.
If and when I do find the problem I will post back here for anyone who has future problems with this issue.
 

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Another newbie here. Just had the exact same thing happen on my 1315. Replaced the solenoid but no change. Between all my poking around & using bypass jumpers, the trouble came clear. I strongly suspect it was the safety neutral switch under the chassis. I was wondering if the original posters on this thread found out on their machines.
Al
 

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Dumn question.... Basically I need to run a wire from the Positive side battery to starter (one long wire)?

Grounds have not checked... Assuming the main ground from battery is #1?


:comp26: We have seen/ experienced many different starting troubles and all of the Safety and Key switches are eliminated to test the starter and the solenoid by doing what I (& others) have stated above.. Lemme 'splain' again:

Test your battery to ground connections by using a test light and checking batt + to ground - on engine metal.. No light = bad ground connection.. Then test your battery pos + connections Test battery neg - to the Solenoid pos + (One of the large wires on the solenoid..) Light on= good battery positive supply to the solenoid.. You have now checked battery cable connections. If all is well check the solenoid with the key in the off position and the PTO & tranny in neutral by jumping from the solenoid's pos + side (large wire you just found voltage on) and jump to the little wire on the side (solenoid activating coil) and the solenoid should 'click' and the starter should turn. If no 'click' the solenoid is hosed.. If the solenoid clicks and the starter dousn't turn, use one side of a jumper cable and hook one side to the starter at the cable lug on the side and touch the other end of the battery pos + terminal.. (make sure no gas or flammables are present as there could be a goodly spark!) If it doesn't turn then the starter is hosed.. If both the solenoid and starter work with these tests your problem then is is one of the safety switches or key switch or blown fuse as others have suggested.

To check these you will need to start at the key switch chase the voltage with the key turned to START through the entire start circuit at every stop until you find your problem.
 

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I was having a problem similiar to yours with my 1320....found the 20 amp fuse near the battery blown....then fault traced to a short in the wiring where the wires rubbed thru by the steering column
 
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