1276 help
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1276
12=engine hp
7=hydro transmission
6=1966
You can download the operator manual from the Files of
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals1_3/
with the 1st part of 4 named
Tractor 1966 1076 1276 OM ipl Wiring 271-272 Pt1.pdf
Also look at
Tractor 1966 1276 INFO
Garry
12=engine hp
7=hydro transmission
6=1966
You can download the operator manual from the Files of
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals1_3/
with the 1st part of 4 named
Tractor 1966 1076 1276 OM ipl Wiring 271-272 Pt1.pdf
Also look at
Tractor 1966 1276 INFO
Garry
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24 Posts
Its in great shape for its age I think.all original I need to figure out what the black box is on top of the starter and how it all works. Its a little before my time but it seems pretty simple too.I will be spending a little time on it today.it came with a plow but I already have the 414-8 all ready with a plow so I might just leave the deck on for now.I will have to see what one would be best to push with I would hate to tear up an auto trans knowing the other has low gears
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1,603 Posts
That is a really great looking tractor. Should have power enough to do about anything.
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4,256 Posts
Your 1276 looks to be in very good shape. The closer to OEM they are, the more valuable they are.
The black box thats mounted on top of the starter/generator is the voltage regulator. It's an old style w/2 relays, a voltage limiter and a current limiter. They are adjustable.
I have the 8hp version (876). The HST call for Type A transmission fluid thats not available anymore but you can use Dexron, I,II or III and/or Dexron/Mercon. Toro Hydro filters com up on ebay all the time.
I'd recommend to change the HST fluid & filter and the engine oil. Probably should change out the points, condensor, plug and air cleaner too, then you'll be GTG.
Dave
The black box thats mounted on top of the starter/generator is the voltage regulator. It's an old style w/2 relays, a voltage limiter and a current limiter. They are adjustable.
I have the 8hp version (876). The HST call for Type A transmission fluid thats not available anymore but you can use Dexron, I,II or III and/or Dexron/Mercon. Toro Hydro filters com up on ebay all the time.
I'd recommend to change the HST fluid & filter and the engine oil. Probably should change out the points, condensor, plug and air cleaner too, then you'll be GTG.
Dave
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24 Posts
Thanks dave I will change them asap,you guys are big helps
this mower starts with even a hint of it turning over but at times I have to help that gen/starter get it to spin the motor,is this a start of needing to rebuild that or can that voltage regulator need adjusted?
I saw one of them on ebay I put a bid on it thinking I may need it someday but the one mounted atm look pretty darn good.
this mower starts with even a hint of it turning over but at times I have to help that gen/starter get it to spin the motor,is this a start of needing to rebuild that or can that voltage regulator need adjusted?
I saw one of them on ebay I put a bid on it thinking I may need it someday but the one mounted atm look pretty darn good.
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4,256 Posts
The starter/generators on these classic old machines don't put out alot of current. I don't have a manual nearby now but I'll swag 10 to 15 amps is all you can squeeze out of them. Good news is, this is plenty to run the tractor and run a couple lights in the dark too.
The charging system needs very little maintenance. I'd only recommend to adjust the regulator ONLY if it isn't charging.
Take a multimeter (volt ohm meter) and read the voltage of the battery with everything off. You should see anywhere from 12.0 to 12.8 volts.
Start the tractor and take another reading, you should get a higher reading at 1/2 to WOT rpm.
If you read 12.1 before start you should read 12.9 or higher at 1/2 to WOT.
Readings of 13v - 13.5 volts is OK too. It means the battery is really low and the system is really putting out the current to charge it back up.
If the voltage remains the same or lower after starting it up, you'll need to adjust the regulator. Keep in mind that they won't charge at low idle and don't be alarmed if your chargeing lamp comes on at idle. Just bump the rpm up and the lamp should go out.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and if it's over 4 yrs old you'll probably do better just to replace it. These old machines like fully charged batteries
As an FYI:
The starter/generator and regulator on my 1966 856 are still the original OEM. I had the starter/generator rebuilt w/new brushes, bearings and the commutator turned for around $20, 10 or so yrs ago but it's still the OEM.
The ones on my 1966 876 look to be original but in it's case I'm not 100% sure as I've only owned it around 5 rs now. In any case that'll show you that they work good and last along time.
If you do want to purchase a spare regulator make sure it has 4 terminals. Theres one hidden on the bottom that you can't see. Odd's are you probably don't need one tho.
Good luck and let us know.
Dave
The charging system needs very little maintenance. I'd only recommend to adjust the regulator ONLY if it isn't charging.
Take a multimeter (volt ohm meter) and read the voltage of the battery with everything off. You should see anywhere from 12.0 to 12.8 volts.
Start the tractor and take another reading, you should get a higher reading at 1/2 to WOT rpm.
If you read 12.1 before start you should read 12.9 or higher at 1/2 to WOT.
Readings of 13v - 13.5 volts is OK too. It means the battery is really low and the system is really putting out the current to charge it back up.
If the voltage remains the same or lower after starting it up, you'll need to adjust the regulator. Keep in mind that they won't charge at low idle and don't be alarmed if your chargeing lamp comes on at idle. Just bump the rpm up and the lamp should go out.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and if it's over 4 yrs old you'll probably do better just to replace it. These old machines like fully charged batteries
As an FYI:
The starter/generator and regulator on my 1966 856 are still the original OEM. I had the starter/generator rebuilt w/new brushes, bearings and the commutator turned for around $20, 10 or so yrs ago but it's still the OEM.
The ones on my 1966 876 look to be original but in it's case I'm not 100% sure as I've only owned it around 5 rs now. In any case that'll show you that they work good and last along time.
If you do want to purchase a spare regulator make sure it has 4 terminals. Theres one hidden on the bottom that you can't see. Odd's are you probably don't need one tho.
Good luck and let us know.
Dave
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24 Posts
Great info dave,thanks a bunch
its going to rain me out of work tomorrow so I plan on changing all oils and checking the volts as you said the battery has been holding charge so far I just have to barely help the motor turn by hand at times but I am amused at how easy of a roll over starts it up
its going to rain me out of work tomorrow so I plan on changing all oils and checking the volts as you said the battery has been holding charge so far I just have to barely help the motor turn by hand at times but I am amused at how easy of a roll over starts it up
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