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Discussion Starter #1
Since I've got the engine out of the 1250, thought I'd clean up the tins and frame and rattle on a coat of leather brown Rustoleum to help preserve it for another couple of years. Has anyone ever gone with (or seen) brown rims? I'm having trouble visualizing it.

-Neil
 

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Not seen the rims painted brown. Bolens painted them red (1st year for the 1250), then white for the rest of the model run.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Rattle can touch-up has begun. definitely wanted to hit the rusty (battery acid eaten) area so went ahead and pulled the entire front end off (was surprised how easy it came apart). Found the front half of the PTO shaft to be totally shot. Not that I have a blower attachment, but had been kinda sorta keeping an eye out. The pivot pin has some play in it but decided not to worry about it this time around since it's not too bad yet. Worst part is the excess play in the bushing in the steering gear under the dash. Still use-able as-is so not too worried if I don't get it fixed this time around (will make a project out of it and the the pivot pin and spindle bushings some other time).

Want to get the front end back together before starting on the the rear then will hit the rims while they are off (they will be some flavor of red). Considering a light brown for the hood and seat-pan now that I have the "leather brown" on the frame and dash tower. Will experiment on the instrument panel and see if my wife likes it (hoping she'll warm up to the 1250 if it's all shiny and new(er) looking).
 

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Hey nsmith, what is that attached to the left side dash? Is that an auxiliary hydro spool? Is it factory or your upgrade? Details, give us details!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It came to me with the dual spool installed (the factory in-dash valve was missing). I picked up a replacement in-dash on e-bay and installed it, then used one port of the dual for the 3-pt hitch cylinder and the other for an aux connection up front for the snow-blade angle. When I re-plumb it, I'm hoping to mount another valve (with float) under the seat-pan for the 3-pt and use the dual for independent front and rear aux ports (rear blade is another future project).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: 1250 colors (and Aux 3-pt control valve)

Started on the 3-pt hitch control valve (with float) project this weekend. Almost gave up on it as it was a VERY tight squeeze. Had to put 3/8" spacers under the rear seat pan for a little more clearance. Might be able to grind down the mounting plate now that things are semi-bolted in place and will hopefully gain some of that 3/8" back. The plate (1/4" plate - overkill but had it laying around) follows the contour of the fender and I'll be capping it with rubber tubing for a tight seal to help keep the elements off of the control valve. Will finish the wheel well to the rear with some recycled computer case tin. Control valve lever will exit just in front of the left-hand seat spring hinge (haven't got that far yet but made sure I had room beneath to rig something up).

Haven't quite decided what to do with the cylinder lines yet. If there is room I might do a 180 degree loop underneath and mount bulk-head fittings to attach the 3-pt cylinder hoses to. Or I can go forward and over the top of the factory cylinder and back beneath the drive-shaft (again with bulk-head fittings). Also considering quick disconnects in case I ever build a mid-mount grader blade.

Decided to use the dual valve for split front and rear auxiliary ports. Ran the rear lines first which wasn't too bad. They currently run on top of the rail (under the new control valve) and I'll bring them up and over the trans filter once I get the lever figured out for the control valve. The front lines will be spliced mid-way down the rail (finding it difficult to use full-length sticks with that much spaghetti behind the dash). Need a couple new cylinder hoses as well.

Oh... Stripping and priming the hood and seat pan were on the to-do list this weekend as well... Didn't quite get there... (JustinR feel free to send me your nicely primed - and dent free - hood and pan !!) : )

-Neil
 

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There are a few small dents that need to be taken care of.....Someone is always running into something with these things. I'm glad you got back on that cylinder project. Too cool to not get done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not sure where I would even mount a cooler. Will see how hot things get when it's all back together again. Used it with the in-dash and the dual valves this past winter for pushing snow with no problems. And no mower deck for it, so not too worried about it at this time.

Sent off the Eaton 12 parts to the Duff's today and took the S-12D jug down to the machine shop for a valve job. Will hopefully have it all back together and operational in a few weeks.

Oh... I removed the seat-pan spacers today and started grinding away at the bracket I'm making. Everything fits !! (no spacers required)

Back to stripping paint I guess...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
More boring pics... pounded out the dent in the seat-pan where the rear u-joint apparently let loose at some point in it's former life... a little Bondo to spruce it up a bit. Decided to give it a rattle can coat of Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer after stripping and sanding and wire-wheel brushing. They'll be suspended from the ceiling and be finished off with white primer and almond top-coat after I figure out exactly where the lever for the control valve will exit the seat-pan (circled in red). Will have to try to preserve easy removal of the seat-pan like the hydro lever allows.

Now about the hood hinge... Is hinge stock easy to come by? Guessing it would be hinge used in building heavy duty tool boxes for trucks and such. Freed it up with some PBlaster but as you can see it is in pieces. Might try to fix it with the little flux core wire-feed welder but will likely just burn up the hinge.
 

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I you have access to a TIG welder, it will be much easier to weld and clean up will be a cinch. You can repair it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
PERFECT day for spraying !! And thought I was going to get the Eaton 12 back together while the primer dried (got the slippers and ring back from the Duff's). Unfortunately NAPA didn't have the front seal in stock... think I'll try the local bearing shop on Monday...
 

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More boring pics... pounded out the dent in the seat-pan where the rear u-joint apparently let loose at some point in it's former life... a little Bondo to spruce it up a bit. Decided to give it a rattle can coat of Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer after stripping and sanding and wire-wheel brushing. They'll be suspended from the ceiling and be finished off with white primer and almond top-coat after I figure out exactly where the lever for the control valve will exit the seat-pan (circled in red). Will have to try to preserve easy removal of the seat-pan like the hydro lever allows.

Now about the hood hinge... Is hinge stock easy to come by? Guessing it would be hinge used in building heavy duty tool boxes for trucks and such. Freed it up with some PBlaster but as you can see it is in pieces. Might try to fix it with the little flux core wire-feed welder but will likely just burn up the hinge.
That hinge can be bought thru McMaster/Carr because I just bought some from them. I think I had to buy 4 or 6 feet, But I an not done restoring tractors yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok auto-body experts... question for you...

A couple of weeks ago I had rattle can primed the seat-pan and hood with rusty metal primer... then yesterday when I practiced with white primer thru a cheap campbell hausfeld gravity feed paint gun, I went heavy enough to cover and am lucky if I used 1/3 quart on both pieces... when I sprayed the top-coat today I leaned towards the heavy side and only used 1/2 quart... does this sound right ?? Gotta say I was amazed at what little over-spray (fog) there was. Have an old Binks suction feed (that needs a kit in the worst way) and that thing would have totally fogged up the garage.

-Neil
 

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Discussion Starter #16
More boring pictures. Hydro unit (new slippers and re-surfaced ring from the Duffs) and hydraulic lines are all done. Made a 2-piece pivot block (and seat roller glides) out of a $3 cutting board from Walmart. Pics show the final position of the lever in all positions (pulling up will lock it in the float position). Will find out this winter if the cutting board will hold up to 30 below temps. Picked up the S-12D cylinder from the machine shop ($52 valve job). I think I'm ready to start on the engine and drive-shaft now. Might make it in time for the snow even !!

Sheez... that level indicator area of the dash looks terrible now (was going to wait with new decals and make sure the paint stays on over the winter)... maybe I'll mask off the labels and spray some flat-black and white... : )
 

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Really a nice piece of work.
 

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Gotta say I was amazed at what little over-spray (fog) there was. Have an old Binks suction feed (that needs a kit in the worst way) and that thing would have totally fogged up the garage.
-Neil
Nice work on the sheet metal!

Yep, High Volume Low Pressure guns were mandated by the gov't for commercial use exactly because they are much more efficient than the older type. Less toxic paint in the environment. It just happens there is more paint on the target. Sometimes the rules work out for everyone. The only drawback is they need a sizable compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
One step closer !! S-12D valve job and cylinder bore cleaned up and re-ring on standard bore e-bay jug and piston... valves adjusted... points (new) adjusted... and paint...

Can't wait to finish getting it back together and fire it up (need to remember to add oil) !! Then on to new u-joints and a new muffler setup (preferably different than what was on it before - see "before" pic)...
 

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It is always nice to see a recuse brought back and given a new life.
 
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