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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I have a 111h and the motor blew out on it. I have a B&S 14.5hp OHV ready to go in its place. I am not sure if this is the best or even a good swap but it is what I have.

So here is where I am at with it, the 14.5hp motor is physically installed.
  • swapped out the oil filler tube with cap from old motor
  • did a little metal grinding on frame to get the mounting holes lined up
  • make a new throttle cable
  • new gas lines

What I don't have is the wiring matching up. There are some extra wires on the 14.5 hp motor that were not on the 11hp motor that I pulled out. Does anyone have a wiring diagram/schematics for the 111h?

Thanks in advance for any and all help...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To update this thread rather than start a new one. The 14.5 OHV works great on the tractor. I took a video of it (about a minute duration) of me walking around and starting it.

I will look into how to post videos on here.

It actually was quite the troubleshooting ordeal for me, after the motor was installed and temps warmed back up enough to work effectively, it wouldn't even turn over. So out came the multimeter and the starter solenoid did not measure good and neither did the ignition switch.

So I bought those, installed, tried to start; got the clunk of the solenoid :) but no starting action :-(.

Out comes the multimeter again. 12 v present where it should be with the key on, but a serious voltage drop when trying to start. Was measuring 6 volts at the starter. Thankfully there was another on the shelf, installed it and it cranked and cranked but wouldn't start. Electrical side resolved.

Bought a new air filter the next day and woohoo, it started right up. Now just to figure out the exhaust routing to make it fit, change fluids, and it is ready for business!!!
 

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Looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rather than start a new thread, I will ask in this one.

After doing all the above mentioned work, it started and ran great for 10-12 hours; however, it has developed an issue that I am unsure of.

It starts easily and will sit and idle until I turn the key off. No apparent issues.

The two areas with issues are: when I drive it or turn the PTO switch on.
1) I can drive it for 1-5 minutes and then it will stall.
2) If I flip the PTO switch it stalls almost immediately. Doesn't matter if the deck is on it or not.

Can this be a safety switch thing? A carb that needs cleaning? or something else?

Thanks in advance. I am hoping to get this resolved this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For anyone who reads this and wonders if I found a solution the answer is yes.

Started the tractor yesterday and engaged and disengaged the PTO same issues. Rather than think a safety switch was acting screwy I thought maybe the PTO clutch. So I had my dad watch the clutch engaging and disengaging while I flipped the switch. Every once in a while it would arc and spark.

So we pulled the clutch off the 116 and put it on and the tractor ran just fine with no issues. Not sure why I didn't think of the clutch before but that is what the problem was this time.

So the repowered 111h lives on to fight another day!!
 

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Good for you. I wonder how this thread got lost in the mix?!? Very seldom does a question go unanswered here. The "bad" clutch may just need the air gap adjusted or some wire insulation repaired.
 

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Diesel Power
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One thing you didn't answer about the repower is if the charging system works and if you had to do any special wiring on that end of the electrical system? Often with these repowers the voltage regulator on the new engine is not compatible with the existing system as far as amperage, the stator may be wired differently, etc. How did you make out with this issue?.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
better before, I am going to look into the pto clutch and see if I can figure out how to fix it. I will be doing research on it this week. :)

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HarryC,

There really weren't any wiring issues to speak of. Initially I did not have any diagrams to work from and the new engine had an extra set of wires, so I was unsure. Once I had a diagram to work with wiring was fairly straightforward.

I had to add a wire to get power over to the solenoid on the carb but reading the wiring diagram took care of where to add that. The extra set of wires from the engine is an output that is unused at the moment. Not sure what, if anything, will ever be added.

As far as the charging system goes, the newer engine had the same one wire set up and I presumed it was compatible because the connector on the harness was the same as the wire on the new engine.

Maybe I just got lucky with that part of it. I dunno??
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah maybe you did get lucky. It would be interesting to put a multimeter across the neg and pos battery terminals while the machine is running to see what the vDC output is.
I will do that tonight when I get home and see what it is. It will give me an excuse to fire it up and do something :)
 

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Diesel Power
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Try it again at wide open throttle. It should be 13v or higher to charge the battery. If it's not charging you have (2) options. First is to put it on a battery charger between uses, and second is to fix the existing setup. If you don't do one of those, eventually the battery will drain down.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Harry,

I had it at WOT while idling to check the voltage reading. I actually did it with the throttle down low and at WOT then engaged the PTO. It was the same reading each time. The numbers weren't what I was expecting to see.

However, the tractor was used yesterday for a good 3-4 hours while I was at work. My dad used it to spread fertilizer in his yard. I am not sure what time he finished but the tractor was cool by the time I got to it to check.

I am going to put my battery charger on it tonight to see what % the battery is charged to right now. If it isn't charging when operating, I would suspect it to be fairly low, since the tractor has been started and run several times since swapping out the PTO. I will post what I find.
 
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