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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I attempted to search to find the answer with no luck. What is the difference in a 10515 and 10520? Is there any? The specs look like they are the same. I have a 10515 and found a 10520 on CL that I want for parts....just need to verify they are actually the same mower.
 

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I think the biggest difference is the carbs. The 10515 has a metal, Walbro carb, and the 10520 has the composite Lawnboy carb. I think the 10520 is rated at 5HP, not 4 or 4.5HP like the 10515.

Get the 10520 if it's a good deal.....98% of the parts will be the same.
 

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I think the biggest difference is the carbs. The 10515 has a metal, Walbro carb, and the 10520 has the composite Lawnboy carb. I think the 10520 is rated at 5HP, not 4 or 4.5HP like the 10515.

Get the 10520 if it's a good deal.....98% of the parts will be the same.
Nope. I thought the same thing between my 10415 and 10420. The carbs change with the year of manufacture. Early carbs on both are Walbro, later is plastic. No one has ever really figured out the horsepower thing since the engine components never changed between the two..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice info. Thanks everyone.

As for the horsepower thing...if you dig through the LB manuals between the three years of the 10515 you will see the spark plug changed in the last years. Not sure if that explains the HP differences or not but I noticed that when looking for a new plug for my 10515. Everyone said to use a CJ14, but manual stated to use a RJ12C. I ended up with a CJ14 since it was easier to find.

Anyways, I have found two locally that are "non-running" for $25 each. The pictures provided (which look like camera phone quality) look like they are in better paint condition than mine. One just states it doesn't run, while the other stated the blade and probably the crank are bent from hitting something. I am mostly looking for a parts machine and/or one to have a deck that I don't have to repaint.
 

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Nice info. Thanks everyone.

As for the horsepower thing...if you dig through the LB manuals between the three years of the 10515 you will see the spark plug changed in the last years. Not sure if that explains the HP differences or not but I noticed that when looking for a new plug for my 10515. Everyone said to use a CJ14, but manual stated to use a RJ12C. I ended up with a CJ14 since it was easier to find.

Anyways, I have found two locally that are "non-running" for $25 each. The pictures provided (which look like camera phone quality) look like they are in better paint condition than mine. One just states it doesn't run, while the other stated the blade and probably the crank are bent from hitting something. I am mostly looking for a parts machine and/or one to have a deck that I don't have to repaint.

25 bucks...good lord go get them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
25 bucks...good lord go get them!
Well...yes that is my initial thought. However considering I have a total of 6 mowers in my garage now, the wife is not too happy for me to show up with yet another one. Especially ones that do not run. I really do want to go grab them because I could probably fix at least one of them and give it to my mother who could use a SP machine. I kept her M (which is what started my LBAD) because it is just too f'ing heavy to push around her yard.
 

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I stand corrected.....I sure hate to give someone bad information.
 

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I stand corrected.....I sure hate to give someone bad information.
No problem. Like I said, I thought the same thing for a long time. Just part of the learning process. That's why guys like Baldguy Ron are so valuable for first hand information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally got the CL poster to respond and I picked up a 10515 yesterday. Paint condition is excellent, wheels are a tad wobbly but still usable, but it won't start. The PO said it came from his father and it had sat for the past year or so under a tarp.

Next steps:
- Pull the carb and clean
- Clean air filter
- Replace spark plug (CJ14?)

Hopefully that gets it running, otherwise I will assume the coil is next. Does the M use the same coil as the F? Or am I confusing that with the DF? I have two M part donors with known good coils.
 

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Sounds like a spark issue, atleast that is usually the problem when i pick up an oldmower.

M series V series and Duraforce(e) series all use the same coils...
 

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Finally got the CL poster to respond and I picked up a 10515 yesterday. Paint condition is excellent, wheels are a tad wobbly but still usable, but it won't start. The PO said it came from his father and it had sat for the past year or so under a tarp.

Next steps:
- Pull the carb and clean
- Clean air filter
- Replace spark plug (CJ14?)

Hopefully that gets it running, otherwise I will assume the coil is next. Does the M use the same coil as the F? Or am I confusing that with the DF? I have two M part donors with known good coils.
Trying to unload some of my stuff. I have a 10515 or 10518 deck, handle, some cables and 3-speed transmission available if you would like them! 10 bucks or so is all. PM me if you want im in the KC area
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Trying to unload some of my stuff. I have a 10515 or 10518 deck, handle, some cables and 3-speed transmission available if you would like them! 10 bucks or so is all. PM me if you want im in the KC area
I'll keep this in mind when I finally get a chance to dig into both of my 10515 in the coming weeks/months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I finally got a chance to take a look at the new 10515 today. Appears to have a few issues:

1.) No spark, bad coil.
2.) Multiple missing screws throughout the handle and control panel.
3.) Zone controls are not functional.

#1 was an easy fix by pulling a coil off of one of my parts mowers.
#2 will probably just take a few trips to Feldmans or ACE to find some replacements.
#3 is going to be a bit of a trick though. It appears that the cables have been pinched at one point and therefore are binding. The engine brake won't release and the starting bar (the top one) has bent a bit due to the binding.

Wolfy....PM sent.
 

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I finally got a chance to take a look at the new 10515 today. Appears to have a few issues:

1.) No spark, bad coil.
2.) Multiple missing screws throughout the handle and control panel.
3.) Zone controls are not functional.

#1 was an easy fix by pulling a coil off of one of my parts mowers.
#2 will probably just take a few trips to Feldmans or ACE to find some replacements.
#3 is going to be a bit of a trick though. It appears that the cables have been pinched at one point and therefore are binding. The engine brake won't release and the starting bar (the top one) has bent a bit due to the binding.

Wolfy....PM sent.
Sounds like work to me:) Hopefully i can help ya out. I do have some misc screws and stuff, not sure if its what you are looking for. anyway PM sent back to ya;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It appears Wolfy has already scavenged the parts I am after for another machine. :(
Looking on partstree, between the three years of the 10515 the last year seems to have a different part number for the cable-brake.

93-94 -- 92-1633 $40.98
95 -- 93-3248 $33.78

Anyone know the differences? Another source for these cables? How hard to rig up a generic cable?
 
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