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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a DR walk behind bush hog that I intend to use to cut the *** around my lake. My concern is that since it is pretty steep (some areas I can barely walk up) and quite long, I could starve the engine of oil. Does anyone have any suggestions to keep the engine alive while cutting extensively on a bank?
2513105
 

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If the slope is that steep that machine is gonna hurt you. I used a hand held with brush blade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the slope is that steep that machine is gonna hurt you. I used a hand held with brush blade.
You are right, but the majority of the *** is not quite that steep. I won't be attempting it on the bad parts.
 

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You can find the workable angle that B&S suggests in a manual, or at the DR site. Surely you are not the 1st to want to clean up a slope. That said, good luck getting it started unless they included some more parts. Looks as if it had a pull start, and no starter motor is in the picture.
As I recall, if you can walk on it, you can use a splash lubed or pressure fed on it without worry. But, don't take my word for it as it could end up being expensive.
I would also suggest checking with DR for an owners manual. My mower manual suggests mowing up and down the slop, but I find going down hill to be 'quite the experience' that I really do not like. I mow across rather than up and down, and lean uphill while doing so(actually not necessary, but it makes the cut a bit more even).
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The most robust solution is to replace the engine with a pressure lube engine of roughly the same horsepower rated for the required slope, provided the mower can safely be run on that slope.
That would do it....but....OUCH $ !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can find the workable angle that B&S suggests in a manual, or at the DR site. Surely you are not the 1st to want to clean up a slope. That said, good luck getting it started unless they included some more parts. Looks as if it had a pull start, and no starter motor is in the picture.
As I recall, if you can walk on it,
You can find the workable angle that B&S suggests in a manual, or at the DR site. Surely you are not the 1st to want to clean up a slope. That said, good luck getting it started unless they included some more parts. Looks as if it had a pull start, and no starter motor is in the picture.
As I recall, if you can walk on it, you can use a splash lubed or pressure fed on it without worry. But, don't take my word for it as it could end up being expensive.
I would also suggest checking with DR for an owners manual. My mower manual suggests mowing up and down the slop, but I find going down hill to be 'quite the experience' that I really do not like. I mow across rather than up and down, and lean uphill while doing so(actually not necessary, but it makes the cut a bit more even).
tom

Tomw0: Do you have a pressurized oiling system on your mower?


you can use a splash lubed or pressure fed on it without worry. But, don't take my word for it as it could end up being expensive.
I would also suggest checking with DR for an owners manual. My mower manual suggests mowing up and down the slop, but I find going down hill to be 'quite the experience' that I really do not like. I mow across rather than up and down, and lean uphill while doing so(actually not necessary, but it makes the cut a bit more even).
tom
Yes, You are right, I'm not the only one that has ever wanted to mow a ****!
Checking with DR is the best idea yet for REAL advice.
The rest of the story needs to end with what I can get by with!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You can find the workable angle that B&S suggests in a manual, or at the DR site. Surely you are not the 1st to want to clean up a slope. That said, good luck getting it started unless they included some more parts. Looks as if it had a pull start, and no starter motor is in the picture.
As I recall, if you can walk on it, you can use a splash lubed or pressure fed on it without worry. But, don't take my word for it as it could end up being expensive.
I would also suggest checking with DR for an owners manual. My mower manual suggests mowing up and down the slop, but I find going down hill to be 'quite the experience' that I really do not like. I mow across rather than up and down, and lean uphill while doing so(actually not necessary, but it makes the cut a bit more even).
tom
I can't see a started motor in the picture either.... I'm going to pick it up tomorrow....we will see! The seller was boasting about the "Brand New Battery"
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not necessarily. People all but give away ratty lawn tractors on marketplace pretty often with bad frames, decks, trans but the engines are perfectly fine.
Good point...!!
 

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Briggs recommends a maximum slope of 15 degrees but I don't like being on that. Came close to rolling a Kubota SCUT, let me tell you the cheeks had a firm grip on the seat!
 

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Briggs recommends a maximum slope of 15 degrees but I don't like being on that. Came close to rolling a Kubota SCUT, let me tell you the cheeks had a firm grip on the seat!
Interestingly enough the safety instructions for walk behind mowers usually state to mow across slopes, whereas ride on equipment (not sure about zero turn mowers) usually says to mow up/down slopes.
 

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I have several steep slopes of about 30 feet in length. I would never try them across with my X500 tractor, or with my CC ZT2 with a wide stance and lower CG. Tractor has a tip over risk, and the ZT will simply skid and lose direction control. I guess I just don't need to temp fate.

I have two lake frontage properties. One is on Lake Huron with a 25 foot high bluff where you simply cannot mow with any machine. It is more like rock climbing there. The other is on a small lake with my mowed property sloping to a flat that meets the lake shore. It is about 600 feet of shoreline. I can't get close enough to the bank with the ZT to get that last 2 to 3 feet of tall grass the former owner let grow 3 to 4 feet high, and is out of control. Just too much risk of slipping the machine into the lake.

I have successfully used my Stihl, 2 cycle powered hedge trimmer to cut the brush on the big lake's bluff down to under 6 inches. The steepness of that bluff presents a bit of a balancing challenge, but it does work quite well to control the thick brush and sumacs that tend to take over the bluff. Can't spray there, and besides, the roots help keep erosion to minimum.

I am going to use the same hedge trimmer (my model allows a few different angles of the cutter blade) to reach that last bit of growth bordering the small lake property. Probably have to do this a few times per season.

Maybe consider the hedge trimmer approach if the brush hog is not going to work well.
 
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