Hello all, I just picked up a used F925 tonight and I'm having a problem already. I drove it home from down the street and turned it off. 20 minutes later I started it up and moved it in front of my garage to check the air in the tires and fill her up with diesel. I aired up the tires and filled the fuel tank and then moved the seat back. Now it will not crank. I turn the key and it beeps and the oil light and glow plug light and battery light comes on. I turn the key forward and the water temp light comes on but doesn't crank. I tried moving the foot pedals with the key turned to the crank position and nothing. I found the seat switch was bypassed so that is not a problem. If I turn the key to run and short the big starter wire to the small one it starts right up and runs perfect. I also tried locking the brake and no luck. I can't see how filling the fuel tank and moving the seat could cause this. Anyone have any ideas?? Anyone have a copy of the wire diagram to help me troubleshoot this? Please help. Thank you in advance for any help and ideas.
I did try moving the seat back. The seat switch is bypassed by the PO and I even tried connecting the seat switch up as it should be and still no luck. Is it normal for the coolant temp light to light up when I turn the key to the crank position? Does anyone know where I could find a wireing diagram for the F925?
Simple troubleshooting first, normal safety switches that interrupt engine start:
~Parking brake locked ON?
~Forward / reverse pedal in neutral?
~Fuel shut-off solenoid stuck. (Not likely, you jumped starter solenoid & runs).
~PTO switch ON? Should be off.
~Engine oil low?
:howdy:
OK, SAFETY FIRST!
ALL SAFETY SWITCHES AND EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE IN GOOD REPAIR AND OPERATIONAL :thThumbsU
Set parking brake, besure to chock the drive wheels, make sure mower is in neutral before attempting any out of seat starting troubleshooting. :fing32:
Mentioned that the starter solenoid had been jumpered from battery side to starter lead and the engine started. Have you tried the applying 12V to the keyed hot wire stud that draws in the contacts? **NOTE: Besure to remove existing wire from the stud before jumpering 12V to it as a precaution of not damaging wiring / components going back to the ignition key.
Picture is of a generic starter solenoid to show wiring from ignition switch and energizing stud.
Thanks for the replies. For the starter when I tested it I shorted the main battery cable to the switch wire as you said I should do. The engine oil is good and full. I tried locking the parking brake and also pushing it up and down while holding the key in the crank position. Also the same with the travel pedals to try to check for an out of adjustment switch. I also tried the same with the Pto lever. Does anyone know if the water temp light is suposed to light up while turning the key to the crank position? A wire diagram would be great to help troubleshoot this. I am a low voltage technician by trade for the last 29 years so with a wire diagram I know I could have this figured out in no time. Any more help and ideas and opinions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the help so far.
...those website from the blog post, I find are terrible if you actually want a pdf to download. They make you jump through hoops to get the pdf, try to trick you into buying a subscription to their site, are loaded with advertising, and try really hard to instead have you read the manual on their site, with all the advertising, and with their own watermark on the page (like it's "theirs")...
The manufacturers website, or failing that, using google with some judgement as to the website, has worked well for me.
Edit:
and, this is a 5 year old thread...
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