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post #1 of 9 Old 07-10-2015, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Graybeard engine oil trick

Learned this one from the old timers.

First buy a big bottle of marvell mystery oil. Don't worry bout the cost it will last for years.

Now here's what you do. Change your small engine oil every time you change the oil in yer truck. First you drain all your small engins. Screw the drain plugs back in and add a couple tablespoons of the marvell mystry oil. I dont measure just add one glug.

Next you drain the oil outta yer truck. Take that oil and fill all yer small engines.

Your done. Since you change your trucks oil every 4 months those small engins will get oil changes oftener, and the marvell mystery oil makes the used oil better than new. So its a win win.

I used this graybeard trick for years and never a single oil problem in my engines. Lots of other problems yeah but their chicom so what else is new?

Any extra used truck oil? Use it for chainsaw bar oil.

If you forget to save the used oil just grab some from a recycling drop off station. One guy I know he just digs a hole and drains his truck into it no mess. Throws a board over the hole and uses it for everything. Then the recycle station oil goes in everything with a glug of marvell mystery oil.

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post #2 of 9 Old 07-10-2015, 01:34 PM
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

Penny wise and pound foolish comes to mind...

Yes, small engines will tolerate a wide variety of oil quality. But....if you are going to the work of doing an oil change why not spend another $2 for new oil? Why use old oil that is likely contaminated with fuel/water vapor, has additives that are nearly used up, and that has been sheared down below it's original viscosity.

MMO is a lot of things, but it will never make used oil better than new.
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-10-2015, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

Not accordin to the old timers who forgot more than most will ever know. That stuff about additives and shear is all from the FEDS and BIG OIL. The FEDS enforce fuel economy and BIG OIL wants to sell you more.

The proof is in the pudding. My small engines never have any oil problems, its always somethin else that takes em down. Two brigs came with the wrong sized valves factory installed and the Honda still goes strong just likes to sip oil and it got real noisy. No oil problems at all.

edit...ok I just talked with my graybeard neighbor he says to make sure the used oil isn't too old. I asked him what about the recyling station oil and he says he says to sunshine it - pour it in a glass and hold it up to the sun. If it's amber then use it.

I always use it outta my truck so I know its good stuff. Never any OIL PROBLEMS.

Last edited by Mike X485; 07-10-2015 at 04:27 PM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-10-2015, 03:28 PM
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

Shoot, just put a zerk on the crankcase and pump that sucker full of corn head grease.

But seriously, an oil change for my machine costs 5 bucks, for that little money I'll stick with fresh oil. I cracked it open for the first time with 500 hours on the clock to replace the head gasket, and the engine is spotless inside. Perfect cross-hatch still in the cylinder.

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post #5 of 9 Old 07-10-2015, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

Whats corn head grease?

Last edited by Mike X485; 07-10-2015 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Spelling
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-10-2015, 04:45 PM
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

back when money was tight . over the road truckers would just change the filter. and roll on. I like your flag.keep her flying high.
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-10-2015, 07:15 PM
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

An air cooled motor that spends most of it's life turning 3400+ rpm needs fresh oil far more than a water cooled motor that spends most of it's life under 2200 rpm.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-11-2015, 12:21 PM
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

I usually change the oil in all my vehicles religiously,every 3 to 5 thousand miles..

I used to use only certain brands too,like Castrol GTX or Valvoline,Wolf's Head,or Amalie..thought it really mattered to stick with one certain brand and not "mix" them,and always the same viscosity too--unless it was low on oil and I had no choice but to add some other brand or weight..

Then I learned most all oil sold in the USA has to meet "Military" specs,which include the ability to be compatible with other they can be mixed without ill effects...

As I grew older and poorer though,I started slacking off on oil changes--I did not drive long distances daily any more like I used to when my work was 65 miles away,and I started buying "cheaper" oil like Walmart's "Tech 2000" brand (which is likely just some big name brand with their label on it anyway)..

I ran all my vehicles for 12 years on it with zero oil related issues..I put a new filter on every time I changed the oil,and sometimes I would put a new one on between changes,like if it was in the dead of winter too..

I often heard mechanics say "the oil never wears out,it just gets dirty and loses its additives "...Once where my dad worked,at a local gas & electric company,that had a large fleet of company trucks and cars,decided to experiment with one vehicle,they just added a quart and replaced the oil filter every 3000 miles,not change the oil--and they added Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil at every filter change....that car went over 110,000 miles with no engine problems..(It was a Dodge slant six though,those will run with no oil practically and probably survive)..

I know many people who changed their oil maybe 2 or 3 times in 100,000 miles and just changed filters more often,then trade the car in after 4-5 years..their still ran good too..not saying that is good practice,just noting the results..

While I do not reccomend this to anyone,the past several years when I was practically broke and didn't drive very far at all,and my old GMC diesel pickup started leaking oil like crazy from a rotted oil pan,I soon tired of having to spend 5 bucks every time on a quart of oil,just to go buy food,or pay bills in it,and see friends who live close by..
Rather than risk destroying the engine by letting it run too low on oil,I started topping it off with used oil I had saved from previous oil changes on my other vehicles..I figured full of "something" was much better than letting it run out, or go too low...

A friend who runs an auto repair shop always has at least one 55 gallon drum full of used oil,so I started using that instead of buying fresh oil every time the truck needed a quart..once in a while I'd buy a quart of new oil,and throw a new filter on it..

I noticed right away the engine spun over a lot faster in the winter and started much easier,than it ever did with 15W-40 in it,and it ran quieter too--the oil I was getting was drained from mostly high end forigen cars that get pampered and have oil changes every 3000 miles ,probably more synthetic than regular crude oil mixed together,and still was a nice clear amber color..

I asked my friend if possible to drain the oil from a few of these cars right into an empty gallon jug right as he drained it,to avoid getting any oil from the drum that might have had ATF or brake fluid dumped in with it..he agreed,and every week I'd have a gallon waiting there for me..often it looked like fresh clean oil,right off a store shelf!..

I read in Mother Earth News how using a doubled up pair of panty hose makes a good oil "filter" when using it to burn in a waste oil heater,so I started using that idea to ensure no larger particles were in the oil..I noticed it came out much clearer looking after filtering it that way a few times..

I have now put at least 10,000 miles on my truck with "used" oil,with a "new" quart added every so often,and a new filter every 2000 miles..the oil looks clear in the dipstick and doesn't turn black like the diesel rated 15W-40 does,and while I know I'm probably not doing the engine any justice by using "car" oil with less detergent in it and the viscosity is "unknown",being a mixture of 5W-30 and 10W-30 probably,and the fact my engine is supposed to have SAE 30 above 32 degrees or 15W-40 in winter,if anything,it runs better and quieter than it ever did before,starts easier,and so far,it hasn't started burning oil or smoking,or rapping..

The truck is getting to the point where its frame and body is rotting away badly enough not to justify spending the money to get the oil pan replaced or do any other major work to it..I cant lie under it and replace the pan myself,and to have it done would cost more than I could sell it for..

I've patched the oil pan leak up with screws in the pan,covered with J-B weld putty and Marglass bondo and RTV ,I know it'll probably just be a temporary fix,but seeing its not really worth fixing "right",I may as well just run it till its "done" far not using "new" oil hasn't seemed to done any damage to it..maybe I'm just lucky,or it'll toss a rod the next time I drive owes me nothing,I have gotten more than my money's worth out of it...
I think today's oils are so much better than what was around in the 80's,that even "used" its still probably better than what we could buy back then..

I have since found out I'm only one of quite a few of my friends customers who are using "drain oil" on old beaters that burn oil or leak...and their vehicles have been kept alive that way for several years too...he has no trouble getting rid of his used oil,between guys like me and those who come looking for it to burn in waste oil heaters..

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post #9 of 9 Old 07-20-2015, 12:03 PM
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Re: Graybeard engine oil trick

Stump, what do you mean when you say the Briggs engines had the "wrong sized valves"? I don't see how an engine could even be assembled with incorrectly sized valves.
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