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post #1 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

Stage-4

Tuff Torq K66 Service

This oil change is at a total of 190 hrs on the clock and 127 hrs since the last K66 oil change on mine.

Before starting, I recommend,

1) An impact wrench, air is fine, but if you have an air compressor you probably have one already, just remember to not use too much force, the top fan pulley nut is 45 foot lbs.
A cordless impact at 1/2Ē will be fine, 3/8Ē Iím not sure, so this info would be nice to know.
An electric, corded impact that can be bought for approximately $25 at 100í lbs rating would work fine also. The point of the impact wrench is to safely remove and install the top fan pulley nut while minimizing the risk of breaking the fragile fan blades.

Here are some examples, there's one for every budget,

Cheapest,

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For the cordless crowd,

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For those that have air compressor's, (I have this one, works great-6 yrs now)

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2) Have the Tuff Torq PDFís on the service with you, I have supplied them, they are on the Tuff Torq Parts page, and I will always recommend what they say over anything I say if there is conflict. I donít think there is any, but just in case, please, always refer to Tuff Torq over an individual such as myself, and please, donít hesitate to talk with Tuff Torq to confirm or just get extra guidance.

I have found Tuff Torq easy to talk with in my experience, and for those skeptical, GOOD, I am too. If you doubt me and think Iím the kind of person that just gives away a job well done without any work, just read some of my earlier threads or talk with some of the senior members.

By now you should be starting here,

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1) Make sure the top is clean, observe the reservoir bottle fluid level, is there any damage to the fan blades, is the belt frayed, etc.

This was mine,

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The edges of my belt show wear, Iím replacing it,

The fluid level was fine,

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2) Remove fan, belt pulley and 15mm top nut with your impact wrench and socket. (at the low torq settings special impact sockets are not needed), it has standard threads (lefty loosey, righty tighty) While holding the belt tight on the pulley with one hand, remove the nut. The belt held choked tight against the pulley uses the natural grip of the belt to hold the pulley from moving. The impact wrench will loosen the nut by very quick hammer blows and resist loosening by leverage.

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Choked belt,

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This was the built up dirt between the fan and pulley,

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With the above being said, you can use a socket wrench. I would use a helper if possible to hold the belt with 2 hands and have sufficient strength to counter your muscle input, harder but will work fine, fan blades, fan blades, canít say it enough. If you break them, donít panic, they are easy to purchase not terribly priced but you will wait with your project.

If you have PB Blaster or WD-40, with care not to spray your belt (remember itís a listed solvent too) with a straw you could put a dab on the threads to get absorbed first.

3) The belt can be easily removed from the main transaxle pulley, from the side my hand is on. If you are replacing the belt, just cut it,

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4) Lift the fan off, from the center not blades. Place the fan in a safe place.

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5) Lift the drive belt pulley off, (or up, held with sm block of wood-you need some clearance for the hydro fill bolt access)

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6) The reservoir bottle is attached to the ďHydro Fill PortĒ. The fill port has a fitting pressed in by hand only, locked in place by a 12mm bolt. Remove this bolt with a 12mm end wrench or socket,

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Once the bolt is removed, lift the reservoir bottle, tube, and fitting all at the same time as one unit and set on a clean surface, this will prevent an oily mess to clean up for the bottle separating from the tube. A small amount of oil may come out if higher than the tube. Donít worry about measuring the oil in the bottle, we will measure what comes out of the transaxle.

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7) Have your oil ready, This is what I use, there are other great products and of course, you can't go wrong with Tuff Torq brand. Tuff Torq says it must be JASO MA-2. The use of 5-50 or 10-50 is allowed for hot weather and heavy use, other factors to consider for your specific needs.

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8) Get a measure bucket, I like these, from the box store paint isle, cheap, and disposable.

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9) Tuff Torq says 2.5 liters or 2.6 liters total, Iíve seen both on their own literature, donít panic, we are going to measure what comes out, (what comes out should go back in) and just reference as a redundancy the amount against the official literature, with the recognition that the official number is the one used when assembled. If this process gets messed up, don't panic, it will resolve itself in the way I'll be showing to fill the transaxle.

There are 2 chambers according to Tuff Torq on the K62/K66 and these chambers have there own amounts, they donít mix.

Hopefully I have your mindset in the K66 as 2 separate chambers now.

10) We will change the hydro chamber first.

Your fill side is open, and you donít want anything to fall in. Contamination here is a new Transaxle in short order, Panic. Just a bit of humor íish, If something falls in to contaminate the chamber, as long as nothing is turned after the oil is drained, this too can be fixed without huge expenditure but you will have another project. I or someone else on this sight Iím sure will help you through the process of splitting the two transaxle cases apart in order to clean all the parts, the contamination shouldnít cause harm unless itís pulled inside the pump and motor.

With your oil pan under the transaxle and your measure bucket under the hydro drain, we will remove the 14mm bolt and let it drain. This picture taken from the right side.

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Note- I know it looks like a maze of bolts underneath. This is where the sharpie is handy, or paint pen. If you find yourself confused when looking at the picture and the bottom of your transaxle, get your 14mm socket or end wrench and find all the 14mm bolts. There are only 2 14mm bolts. When you find a 14mm bolt put a sharpie mark on it. All the other bolts are smaller, 12mm or 13mm. You should have 2 clearly marked 14mm bolts now and they will be on each half of the transaxle if you split it down the center from front to rear with your mind or a sharpie. The 14mm bolt on the right side is the hydro chamber. Done!

Keep in mind, my goal is to help someone with very little to no skill do this, just take your time.

The 14mm bolt has a crush washer, the safest advice is to always replace a crush washer, they are a one time use only design.

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With that said, I used the same one over again, knowing if it leaks, guess what Iím doing? Yep! From scratch, all over again. There is your risk. If you have a Dealer like my new one, he will most likely have one in stock, and they are cheap.

Here is mine draining,

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After it drains, now let it drip. I did for 20 minutes. do as I do and expect the same results sure, logical, but at least 5 minutes of dripping would be good, its the very bottom and if any metal particles exist, that's a place they will be.

My chamber gave me just over a liter or 37-38 ozís.

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11) Record what came out and note how dirty the oil is, or clean. Does it have a burnt smell? Take a flash light to it and look for small sparkles, this is metal or a possible sign of excessive wear. Metal flakes should sparkle under light in a very noticeable way.

Put the 14mm drain bolt back in but only hand tight, then use your wrench and snug it. (itís aluminum, easy to strip threads, easy to overpower) Place a clean micro fiber type towel (no lint) lightly over the hydro fill port.

12) Unscrew the gear side fill cap, make a mental note of the placement of oil inside the short fill tube and right it down. I measures mine, at approximately 1Ē down from the bottom of the cap when fully inserted, as an example of what your looking for. This was good according to Tuff Torq, the gear side doesnít have an overflow reservoir for when the oil expands as it heats. This small amount of space at the top is there to allow for this expansion.

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Stage-4, Continued in the next reply...
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post #2 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

Stage-4, Continued...

From underneath, with your measure bucket empty and placed under the left 14mm bolt or gear side, remove the bolt, let drain, let drip. On mine the gear side was the dirty side, no filter on this side, makes sense.

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While its draining, separate the reservoir bottle from the fill tube over an oil catch, drain the oil. Remove the top vent cap, it has 2 pieces, the rubber cover and the plug. The plug (my pen is pointing to the plug) is hard to remove. It will look like this,

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With a little attention, and a couple oz of fresh oil swished around inside the reservoir bottle, you ensure its clean. Dump the bottle, wipe it clean, (I try to clean as I go frequently when dealing with transmissions) set aside.

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13) Measure what came out of the gear chamber, record it. Mine was approximately just over a liter or 38oz. Examine the oil for cleanliness, is it burnt, and are there metal flakes. Replace the 14mm bolt with crush washer, hand tighten then with your wrench, snug it.

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At roughly 33 oz per liter and 16 oz for half a liter 2.5 l is roughly 82 oz total. How did you do?
Remember the reservoir bottle will get some oil too. But are you on track as compared to what I have recorded? Only ball parking as a performance marker, if you only got 25 oz from the gear chamber, that would be off a bit much.

14) With a funnel, pour the first quart of oil into the gear chamber, but slowly. Check the level after the first 20 oz. And check as needed each oz after until the level is an inch below the top. If you pulled out 34 oz and its full after 20 oz donít panic, we will work the air out later.

15) with your funnel, open a fresh quart (pour from one quart dedicated to its side, this is an easy way to measure 32oz worth for each side), pour slowly into the hydro chamber and just like the gear chamber, you may be working to fill every oz after 20 oz ish. On the hydro side fill to approximately 1/2Ē from the top or try and get all 32 oz in it if you can. You can place the pulley on the shaft and turn it by hand slowly in a clockwise direction, several turns, if the level starts to drop and you can pour more of the 32 oz in, great. Check on the gear side too, see if the level went down any, and replenish to an inch below the top until the 32 oz is all in. (if there is air and you turn fast you could end up being counter productive and push an unmeasured amount of oil out with a mess).

Be patient, itís a process, and itís worth the caution in my view.

By now all 32oz of each quart should be in the 2 chambers. In my case, I know that no matter what I see, the hydro chamber still needs approximately 6 oz and the gear chamber 5 oz, according to what I measured coming out.

With a small measure cup in oz, continue to fill the gear side with what is left that it needs or as close as possible till an inch below filler, place the cap on.

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On the hydro side, fill almost to the brim with what is left to put in, press fit the reservoir fill tube into the reservoir bottle and in one piece place the unit back on with the fitting back into the hydro chamber fill opening, reinstall the 12mm bolt, snug it, donít wrench it, itís aluminum, if you only have a total of 28oz at this point thatís ok, the main thing is knowing how many oz are needed to go in and that the level was at the top.

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Now fill the reservoir bottle half way or 2Ē from the top, donít put the plug on yet.

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16) This is the time to spin the shaft, by hand or with a drill on low rpm setting. Spin it for a time, the reservoir should be filling the hydro chamber, donít let it fall below the filler tube. If you have more to add, stop spinning and do it now, itís probably the last anyway.

The gear side, remove the cap, check level, is there another oz or so that needs to go in and if you do, will it overflow? Will it fill past the spec level? If yes to the first, follow the procedure of spinning again, if your math was right pour the rest in regardless of level (but not overflowing), and spin with cap off, it should settle to the approximate start level and the math will be right, 34 oz is 34 oz, 35 oz is 35 oz, etc, whatever came out must go in.

17) With the math right in the gear chamber, tighten cap, done.

I took the time to measure the lines on the reservoir bottle, they are as follows from the bottom up,

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line-1 .5 oz
line-2 1.0 oz
line-3 2.0 oz
line-4 3.0 oz
line-5 4.0 oz
line-6 5.0 oz
line-7 5.5 oz
line-8 6.5 oz

18) With the math right in the hydro chamber, fluid level in the reservoir bottle here (I put 6 oz in-38oz in hydro + 6 oz in reservoir + 37 oz in gear chamber = 81 oz and almost 2.5L), or at the original start point, put the plug back in and replace the rubber cover, make sure the fill tube is not leaking, and that the reservoir bottle is secured, the 12mm bolt was snugged, your done.

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Tip- The zip tie ensures that the bottle is secure, I do this because the bottle is a source of leakage and is very difficult to have eyes on it while operating tractor.

Also, try and avoid oily fingers on the pulley and belt.

19) With the chambers full and buttoned up, put your pulley on with top nut hand tightened.

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20) Push the freewheel rod back in to engage the transaxle.

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21) Use your drill to just spin the pulley, fast is fine, and while spinning fast, start pressing the control pedal forward, and then reverse, forward and revers, you get it. The axles should start quickly responding, your done bleeding a transaxle that actually doesn't need this attention.

This is a good way to verify that all was done right. Imagine, you re-assemble the tractor get on and it wonít move, and now you have another full project.

22) Replace drive belt, walk it on in a clockwise direction, turning the shaft by hand. Make sure all moving parts are free to move, clean up. And all should look like this,

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23) Remove the top nut, install the fan, install the 15mm top nut.

The torque spec is 45 foot lbs. That's considerably less than your wheel bolts, keep this in mind, its not a lot, and use your belt to hold the pulley still and a light impact. If you wrench on it with an impact (Iím speaking to those of you like me with air impacts that can snap bolts twist metal) you could cause damage to seals, case, shaft, etc. For most light impacts its just a second or two burst. If you have a helper that can hold the pulley tight without breaking the fan blades while using a torque wrench, this would be safest for the transaxle. A clicker type torque wrench in foot lbs would be fine, and are affordable. I do like dial torque wrenchís too, either is good.

It should look like this,

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Pull the transaxle freewheel rod back out, (disengaged)

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Time to assemble, The hardest parts are done, and this will go surprisingly fast.

Stage-5, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS, re-install fuel tank, and main body.
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 08:56 PM
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

I wish I had known about the crush washers, I would have ordered them with the oil
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-19-2019, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in MD View Post
I wish I had known about the crush washers, I would have ordered them with the oil

If you have a Dealer that actually stocks parts, they're still out there, make a call, or even part match by taking it in to him. I'm giving you the PDF's from Tuff Torq on our K66. You might even find it on Amazon Prime (2 days)?

The bolt and washer as a kit, (#16 on the schematic) is part number #1A632099320

The washer alone (#11 on the schematic) is part number #22190100000

Notice on the parts list, our K66AG (with electronic locking rear differential) cost's $1,507.99 new from Tuff Torq directly. Wow, right?

If you have ever re-used the oil drain crush washer when changing the oil on your car or truck with success, it's a bit like that, the oil is not under high pressure, it's the transaxle sump.

I'm behind which ever way you choose, because the sound advice of replacing a crush washer will never let you down.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf K66AG schematic r3.pdf (275.3 KB, 2 views)
File Type: pdf K66AG parts lsit r3.pdf (130.8 KB, 2 views)
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post #5 of 15 Old 10-19-2019, 01:40 PM
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

I just ordered the 2 of the drain bolt kits this am. Unlike your weather, I just completed my final mow of the year, it was 38į F this AM, so time is not big deal but TuffTorq's $25.00 min order and $18.00 shipping is steep, I filled the order with 2 hats, I wear them mowing and my current one is getting a bit gross.

One suggestion: either revise the intro to add sections or another post with; required tools, suggested tools, required supplies, suggested supplies ect. I will be going to dollar tree for your suggested bags to keep hardware for each stage clearly identified. That is a big winner in my opinion being this isn't a one afternoon project.
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-19-2019, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in MD View Post
I just ordered the 2 of the drain bolt kits this am. Unlike your weather, I just completed my final mow of the year, it was 38į F this AM, so time is not big deal but TuffTorq's $25.00 min order and $18.00 shipping is steep, I filled the order with 2 hats, I wear them mowing and my current one is getting a bit gross.

One suggestion: either revise the intro to add sections or another post with; required tools, suggested tools, required supplies, suggested supplies ect. I will be going to dollar tree for your suggested bags to keep hardware for each stage clearly identified. That is a big winner in my opinion being this isn't a one afternoon project.
Dave thank you for the feedback.

First and most important.....38F???? I guess this is next...

I forget there are more than the two season's we have, in the rest of the country at times (Summer, break, Summer, Break). It's having four real season's that keeps it so scenic up north, right?

Good report on Tuff Torq's order policy, I didn't know. So having an order ready in advance, for everything would be more cost effective, leading too,

I can see how a list up front about tools and supplies could be helpful, I will look at that further after I finish the posting of all the Stages.

The first 4 stages are getting you familiar with your machine, overall, taking the mystery out. By the time you get to reassembly, it will finish up very quickly, partially because now you know, and that new muscle memory makes you familiar.

It's for this reason that I think a hard charger, can probably get this done on a Saturday, but more practical for most, would be dedicating a weekend.
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

For me at least, I will also be changing the engine oil, greasing all of the zerks, sharpening the blades, and at least blowing out the air filter. and coating the underside of the deck with fluid film (rust preventative) for the winter. I also need to change the plug in my snow blower.
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post #8 of 15 Old 10-19-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

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For me at least, I will also be changing the engine oil, greasing all of the zerks, sharpening the blades, and at least blowing out the air filter. and coating the underside of the deck with fluid film (rust preventative) for the winter. I also need to change the plug in my snow blower.
Good Man!!

Your machine will be happy. This is the time to get it done.

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post #9 of 15 Old 11-11-2019, 08:03 PM
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

Well, basically completed step 4 today, draining both chambers was no prob at all. I drained 40 oz from the gear side, and 36 from the hydro side. filling the gear side with 40 oz and the level is lower than when I started and getting 34 oz into the hydro side has taken all day. I was hoping to get at least the body back on, oh well. Using a drill I do have both forward and reverse response. It didn't take long for forward but reverse took a bit before it started.
on mine the reservoir is very well mounted. And there is a number of those low profile clips in the rear but larger than the one on the brake rod.
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-13-2019, 06:29 AM
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

I spoke to Tuff Torq There is a filter between the Hydro and Gear sides of the transmission. The key was that after filling the gear side with it's 40 oz it was lower than when I drained. Filling the gear side to starting level took just a bit more than what I was unable to get into the hydro side. He said to let it sit overnight to level. I'll check when I get home from work as it is only 21į outside this am.
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post #11 of 15 Old 11-13-2019, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

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I spoke to Tuff Torq There is a filter between the Hydro and Gear sides of the transmission. The key was that after filling the gear side with it's 40 oz it was lower than when I drained. Filling the gear side to starting level took just a bit more than what I was unable to get into the hydro side. He said to let it sit overnight to level. I'll check when I get home from work as it is only 21į outside this am.
I'm glad to hear it went well, getting air out can be a chore and at 21 degrees, the oil won't want to move. The hydro side can be work for every ounce after an initial fill. Working it with your drill and getting every last ounce in will be worth it when its all buttoned up. Job Done.

Amazing how simple it is.

When you start putting the tractor back together, it will go much faster than when disassembling it.

I got to thinking, luxury European cars have mileage badges for hitting certain milestones, maybe we should start a changed our K66 oil club.....I know, needs work, might be very exclusive...
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post #12 of 15 Old 11-13-2019, 08:27 PM
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

The badge idea is neat, I like it.
A couple of things I forgot to mention, latching the brake pedal down, besides being clear for the body removal, also slackens the drive belt making it real easy to slip off from the pulley. Just don't forget to release it before you start using the drill to work the oil into the transmission.
2nd, when you drain the fuel tank, put the selector on reserve there was nothing left to dump out, I just pulled the fuel line from the impulse pump input on the engine and dropped it into the fuel can, it drained completely.
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post #13 of 15 Old 11-16-2019, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

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Originally Posted by Dave in MD View Post
The badge idea is neat, I like it.
when you drain the fuel tank, put the selector on reserve there was nothing left to dump out, I just pulled the fuel line from the impulse pump input on the engine and dropped it into the fuel can, it drained completely.
The badge idea is kind of funny I know, but this may be an exclusive achievement like a passenger car achieving a million miles. It would also have to include the Craftsman Owners of the same tractors, I'm thinking.

On to the next point about the reserve fuel selector switch, I think this is good. This will confirm its operation, that it actually works. Once you get to this point in the process I think you can see the practicality of ensuring the assembly at the Dealer was done right or it gives an opportunity to get it right, all in the same process, like a quality control of sorts.

I also wanted to comment on the Tuff Torq call you had. I have found them to be easy to talk too, a wealth of information. I also try to ask questions in a way that does not pit them against their customers and keep the topic on the transaxle only (Their primary customers being the Lawn and Garden Manufacturers).

For people whom might be skeptical of this (and for good reason when it comes to customer service in general these days), did you find them equally easy to communicate with?

I'm confused by this, "I spoke to Tuff Torq There is a filter between the Hydro and Gear sides of the transmission". Did Tuff Torq say the two chambers are not separate?

Tuff Torq says this in their oil change guide, "Note: Oil will not flow from one chamber to the other."

This would be good to nail down. The gear chamber will create heat at a different rate than the hydro chamber, There are different demands on the oil. If the two chambers are not separate, this might put even more importance on transaxle service?
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post #14 of 15 Old 11-16-2019, 12:29 PM
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

I know that it said that on their process sheet, which is why I confirmed, it could also be a change since that procedure was written. I know some of the procedures I write get outdated quickly, particularly in the network security requirements. It also makes sense in that what was missing in the gear side which I filled first was pretty exact to what I was unable to get into the hydro side, he said there was a filter between the 2 sides and to give it overnight to level, that could also be why there is no vent on the gear side fill plug. Yes the gentleman was very nice, but from that part of the country, I didn't really seem unusual as I did a lot of interaction with folks there in a previous job, and they just are just more of a relaxed and gentle culture at least in the technical sector.
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post #15 of 15 Old Today, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Stage-4, Complete K66 Oil-Change Guide GT/TS

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Originally Posted by Dave in MD View Post
I know that it said that on their process sheet, which is why I confirmed, it could also be a change since that procedure was written. I know some of the procedures I write get outdated quickly, particularly in the network security requirements. It also makes sense in that what was missing in the gear side which I filled first was pretty exact to what I was unable to get into the hydro side, he said there was a filter between the 2 sides and to give it overnight to level, that could also be why there is no vent on the gear side fill plug. Yes the gentleman was very nice, but from that part of the country, I didn't really seem unusual as I did a lot of interaction with folks there in a previous job, and they just are just more of a relaxed and gentle culture at least in the technical sector.
I agree, it makes sense to have some way for gravity/ expansion on the gear side, and this might be how they did it, not saying that a gear case can't be completely sealed to operate, but It can cause reliability issues if the gear case is perfectly sealed, such as an overheat can cause axle seal failures prematurely.

I was also thinking of a possible manufacture change, (minor in this case) it does happen frequently, although it should be less and less as time goes on (working out the bugs). This transaxle has been in production for over 10 years now.

I'm glad to hear your experience with Tuff Torq was good also, I appreciate the feedback.

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