Dave, you can do it. I think you might surprise yourself.
What I'm trying to work out is a product and development style that has the kinks worked out to just follow steps.
"I haven't forgotten the K66 service tutorial I promised, it is coming." That would be handy, mostly for the best way to access it on the TS354XD I am basically at 40 hrs, with 50 being TuffTorq's recommendation for the first fill and drain. I asked the dealer twice about a price to do the service as after the first time it it is every 200 hrs after, and haven't gotten an answer. I'm thinking pull all of the body and footrest bolts to see if I can get enough clearance to access the fill ports. I still haven't sealed the gauges bad on me.
In the mean time,
I'll give an overview and by your input can adjust to make this easier, if your willing to help, I accept
It will seem like a lot of steps and overwhelming maybe, but if you get the grass cut first and then dive into this, taking a couple of days or so, each process will get done, and you will have your K66 serviced, and even take care of some other items as they are exposed and easy, if needed of course.
I think the best way is still going from the top down. What you are already looking at.
Center console removal,
1) Disconnect the battery, and battery tray-remove, disconnect the parking brake, cruise control, switches as needed to remove console and body only, ground wires, the throttle cable and choke, I did it at the carb bracket, if you do this here, mark with paint or at least sharpy where the cables are mounted at the bracket, you create a reference for reinstall exactly in the same location
last, remove the two bolts at the steering shaft to steering support plate, and the bolts that hold the console to the body and frame, 6 total, the 4 in back are from the top down and the 2 in front are carriage bolts from the bottom up. Now you should be able to do this,
(you will notice a large black 3/4" wire loom, that's JBJR, not on yours, ignore that)
The body removal,
1) At the front, look under the body at the base of the reverse pedal, the reverse pedal will easily pop off with a straight blade screw driver to depress the one way clip that holds it on.
2) Now, The mower deck lift arm needs to be removed, it has a quick release clip but those very heavy springs (think fab deck weight support) will need to be secured, the easiest way I've found is to use a cargo strap and strap it in the forward position to allow removal of the lift arm from it's bracket. Here,
(just to the right of the lift arm in the picture, if you remove the 2 bolts here and on the other side, you won't need to remove the seat)
3) before removing the seat bracket support bolts, un-clip the occupant safety switch under the seat and make sure the wire is clear of the body, now remove those bolts-2 on each side as mentioned in the note above.
4)Important-Important-(I'm trying to spare you some trouble here) Remove the fuel cap, and tie, make note of fuel filler return breather nipple, here,
and carefully lift the body without breaking this nipple, as I didn't.
I make a note here on fuel removal, if it was me, I would run the tank mostly dry, disconnect the fuel hose at the breather valve and on top of the tank, having an empty fuel container to let the main fuel hose drain into, won't be much.
The hardest part is done, relax, simple from here.
If you have an impact, even a cordless, the torque spec is not high, remove the pulley/fan bolt. I would hold the pulley belt tight on the pulley and remove the bolt. That's a safe way to protect the fan blades, they do break easily. now remove the 10mm bolt I think its 10mm, from the transaxle where the reservoir bottle drains into, this is your hydraulic pump side fill. clean your reservoir bottle, you can use soap and water, but rinse well and use a heat gun, blow dryer, something, no water at all, and not too hot, its plastic.
Open the gear side of transaxle. the easiest way to do this next part, have a measuring cup of sufficient size and drain each side into it one at a time. keeping track of what came out. What comes out goes back in (in measure of course). For the extra vigilant, (I'm like this, you don't need to) put the bolts back in on the bottom and wait. after an hr ish find out what more comes out, record for each side. Have the tractor level when doing this. follow tuff torq instruction on your fill, I think you are in a mild climate and cold in winter, right? If so, the Tuff Torq oil is probably the right weight for you, (a 30W) I only use the 10-50, 5-50 oil because of the extreme duty/ high heat use recommendation from Tuff Torq. Also if you get an equivalent grade of oil instead of Tuff Torq (a note here, I don't think you will save money here, and the Tuff Torq oil was good enough for them, just a thought) make sure its synthetic, JASO MA2 qualified (wet clutch applications), very important.
I can go over the rest when you get closer, but this is a start to prepare for. You can't really make a permanent mistake, if you are concerned, just more elbow grease might be needed
I applaud you for care of your machine like this, and when you attempt the project I will make it a priority to be available to get you through regardless what it takes. I also see this as a great opportunity to document the process for giving other people confidence too.
I promise when I deliver the procedure it will be full of pictures and tried and proven for other peoples ease, I just wanted to leave this now since you are 10 hrs away, from the most important oil change, the one that gets manufacturing crud out