Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary? - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
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post #1 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

I thought about this when I checked my air filter among other routine pre-start checks today, and saw a very clogged filter. It was mostly mulched grass, mixed with other fines. I thought I just cleaned it a couple hrs of use ago and I was close. I last cleaned it at 174 hrs on the clock.

The maintenance schedule is every 25 hrs, and if followed you are probably good. But in those extra dusty summer conditions while mowing grass, how much trapped fines actually do clog the filter?

I cleaned the filter and housing, and took pictures. I mowed my lawn and then took pictures again. This was one mowing. Here are the results,

182.3 hrs on the clock,



I'm starting clean,







1.3 hrs later, I'm done mowing the yard, Let's take a look....



The filter,



Underneath,



I then shook the loose stuff into a box,



There is cuttings on the outside of the hood air intakes even,



After this little observation, I will clean the filter after I mow, as for anyone else, you may or may not have this kind of fines kicked up in the air after mowing. As for me, 25 hrs seems a bit long....

Cheers,
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post #2 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 03:57 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

Depends entirely on conditions. I've got a Gravely ZTXL 42 with bagger, with a Kaw FR651V that has the same air filter setup as yours, and since the engine is only 6" or so ahead of the bagger, in dry conditions or when picking up dead grass (say, during spring cleanup), that whole area around the air filter has been completely packed with grass in a very short time. It happened often enough for me, that I bought the "commercial" Donaldson 2-stage air filter, and mounted it to one of the side pods of the zero turn with a tube running to the engine. Problem solved and the filters last MUCH longer than the original one.
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post #3 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 04:24 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

I have the same engine and at about ≈ 25 hrs I still look pretty much new. I do mow at full height of the machine they call 3.5 inch but is closer to 3.25 and side discharge. We have had a wet year so dust is minimal.
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post #4 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 04:43 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

I recently purchased a new TS348D (boxed on a shipping crate), with a Kohler 24hp and noticed that it had no pre-cleaner filter installed over the main air filter. I ordered some foam filters before running the machine. In this dusty summer environment, I'll clean and reoil the pre-cleaner after each 2hr mow session, for it does get dirty.

If I was mowing a lush lawn, I'm sure that I could go much longer intervals before servicing the pre-filter.
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post #5 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_r View Post
Depends entirely on conditions. I've got a Gravely ZTXL 42 with bagger, with a Kaw FR651V that has the same air filter setup as yours, and since the engine is only 6" or so ahead of the bagger, in dry conditions or when picking up dead grass (say, during spring cleanup), that whole area around the air filter has been completely packed with grass in a very short time. It happened often enough for me, that I bought the "commercial" Donaldson 2-stage air filter, and mounted it to one of the side pods of the zero turn with a tube running to the engine. Problem solved and the filters last MUCH longer than the original one.
It's amazing how fast it can fill up under the right conditions. I also found it interesting how much more fines are kicked up with the mulch conversion. The side chute is cleaner. I like both for what they do, but this was a good test, the JBJR use doesn't. Again it just comes down to being aware of your own conditions, right?

This is a picture of the 2 stage air canister kit from Kawasaki, It does require a carb jetting change. It's on the list for me too.



This is stock on the FX series.
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post #6 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

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Originally Posted by Dave in MD View Post
I have the same engine and at about ≈ 25 hrs I still look pretty much new. I do mow at full height of the machine they call 3.5 inch but is closer to 3.25 and side discharge. We have had a wet year so dust is minimal.
Good to hear from you Dave,

Yes we do have the same motor, and the rain must be nice, except maybe extra mowing

I also run mine high, our grass needs to be 3"-4".

Good news for you. I may be working this Kawasaki harder than most and with 183hrs it still runs like new. No hick-ups, is what it is. I'm certainly putting it to the test, just shy of commercial use by pros, right?

I haven't forgotten the K66 service tutorial I promised, it is coming.

Cheers,
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post #7 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

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Originally Posted by Oldham View Post
I recently purchased a new TS348D (boxed on a shipping crate), with a Kohler 24hp and noticed that it had no pre-cleaner filter installed over the main air filter. I ordered some foam filters before running the machine. In this dusty summer environment, I'll clean and reoil the pre-cleaner after each 2hr mow session, for it does get dirty.

If I was mowing a lush lawn, I'm sure that I could go much longer intervals before servicing the pre-filter.
That's a good point about the lush lawn. California can be prone to dry, hot conditions too, requiring grass that is less lush and more hearty like ours?

Being boxed on a shipping crate, means you have become very well acquainted with your new machine , and have maybe eliminated the proverbial Late Friday Assembly at the box store?

Congratulations on your new tractor, when you get pictures, post them.

Cheers,
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post #8 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 08:41 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

That blows my mind, it's amazing how conditions can vary from region to region, and how that can require such a drastic change in the maintenance schedule. Seriously, I thought part of my lawn was a bit dry, but you really bring home the cotton mouth trophy. I can feel the fine dirt in the air, on my teeth, my tongue... ugh. Brings back some memories.

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post #9 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 10:29 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FLHusqGT View Post
It's amazing how fast it can fill up under the right conditions. I also found it interesting how much more fines are kicked up with the mulch conversion. The side chute is cleaner. I like both for what they do, but this was a good test, the JBJR use doesn't. Again it just comes down to being aware of your own conditions, right?

This is a picture of the 2 stage air canister kit from Kawasaki, It does require a carb jetting change. It's on the list for me too.



This is stock on the FX series.
I measured the vacuum pressure between the air filter and carb (both with the Donaldson from the FX series and with the original one), and both at idle and at full speed, the vacuum was the same. If I put on a old, heavily used filter, I could see the vacuum noticeably increased.

You might want to check this before re-jetting the carb.
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post #10 of 24 Old 07-18-2019, 11:25 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FLHusqGT View Post
That's a good point about the lush lawn. California can be prone to dry, hot conditions too, requiring grass that is less lush and more hearty like ours? Unfortunately, I have a field of weeds that only looks lush in the spring. During the summer and fall months, it's an ugly brown of various thin grasses and dirt.

Being boxed on a shipping crate, means you have become very well acquainted with your new machine , and have maybe eliminated the proverbial Late Friday Assembly at the box store? I hope so. Me too. There was very little required assembly that included, among other tasks; checking the oil, driving it off the pallet, reducing the tire pressures and leveling the deck.

Congratulations on your new tractor, when you get pictures, post them. [COLOR="DarkOrange"]Thanks for your interest, for I've included a few pictures below.

Cheers,

Thank you for your countless hours of research, photos and explanations, regarding weak frames on the various models of Husqvarna LT's, including mine. Although I occasionally tow the trailer pictured, I hope to have a reliable machine for many years to come.

-Doug



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post #11 of 24 Old 07-19-2019, 08:56 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldham View Post
Thank you for your countless hours of research, photos and explanations, regarding weak frames on the various models of Husqvarna LT's, including mine. Although I occasionally tow the trailer pictured, I hope to have a reliable machine for many years to come.

-Doug



Attachment 2387151

Attachment 2387153
For whatever problems Husqvarna may have, they sure make a good looking machine.

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post #12 of 24 Old 07-20-2019, 03:08 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

@FLHusqGT "I haven't forgotten the K66 service tutorial I promised, it is coming." That would be handy, mostly for the best way to access it on the TS354XD I am basically at 40 hrs, with 50 being TuffTorq's recommendation for the first fill and drain. I asked the dealer twice about a price to do the service as after the first time it it is every 200 hrs after, and haven't gotten an answer. I'm thinking pull all of the body and footrest bolts to see if I can get enough clearance to access the fill ports. I still haven't sealed the gauges bad on me.
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post #13 of 24 Old 07-20-2019, 03:29 PM
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

My yard goes from May gumbo muck / rice paddy, to half an inch growth per day, then the Poplar tree fuzz comes down from June 1 to the 4th of July. July and August are bone dry and that clay gumbo develops 3/4 inch wide cracks.

Have a 24 HP Kawasaki twin in a JD X500. As a routine, I check everything prior to mowing every week, including the air filter. Usually clean before June 1st, but thereafter, requires some compressed air blasts to get rid of the junk.

Depends a lot on how the wind is blowing too. Sometimes I'm riding along in a virtual cloud of dust and particles. You know where all that ends up....in the filter.

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post #14 of 24 Old 07-20-2019, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
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Depends a lot on how the wind is blowing too. Sometimes I'm riding along in a virtual cloud of dust and particles. You know where all that ends up....in the filter.
Yes, all about the wind for me; which seems to be windy more often of late. I have that same 24hp Kaw motor on my Gravely but it did not come with a prefilter but I ordered one for it.

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post #15 of 24 Old 07-21-2019, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clean air filter every 25 hrs, is it really necessary?

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Originally Posted by Dave in MD View Post
@FLHusqGT "I haven't forgotten the K66 service tutorial I promised, it is coming." That would be handy, mostly for the best way to access it on the TS354XD I am basically at 40 hrs, with 50 being TuffTorq's recommendation for the first fill and drain. I asked the dealer twice about a price to do the service as after the first time it it is every 200 hrs after, and haven't gotten an answer. I'm thinking pull all of the body and footrest bolts to see if I can get enough clearance to access the fill ports. I still haven't sealed the gauges bad on me.
Dave, you can do it. I think you might surprise yourself.

What I'm trying to work out is a product and development style that has the kinks worked out to just follow steps.

In the mean time, I'll give an overview and by your input can adjust to make this easier, if your willing to help, I accept

It will seem like a lot of steps and overwhelming maybe, but if you get the grass cut first and then dive into this, taking a couple of days or so, each process will get done, and you will have your K66 serviced, and even take care of some other items as they are exposed and easy, if needed of course.

I think the best way is still going from the top down. What you are already looking at.

Center console removal,

1) Disconnect the battery, and battery tray-remove, disconnect the parking brake, cruise control, switches as needed to remove console and body only, ground wires, the throttle cable and choke, I did it at the carb bracket, if you do this here, mark with paint or at least sharpy where the cables are mounted at the bracket, you create a reference for reinstall exactly in the same location

last, remove the two bolts at the steering shaft to steering support plate, and the bolts that hold the console to the body and frame, 6 total, the 4 in back are from the top down and the 2 in front are carriage bolts from the bottom up. Now you should be able to do this,





(you will notice a large black 3/4" wire loom, that's JBJR, not on yours, ignore that)

The body removal,

1) At the front, look under the body at the base of the reverse pedal, the reverse pedal will easily pop off with a straight blade screw driver to depress the one way clip that holds it on.

2) Now, The mower deck lift arm needs to be removed, it has a quick release clip but those very heavy springs (think fab deck weight support) will need to be secured, the easiest way I've found is to use a cargo strap and strap it in the forward position to allow removal of the lift arm from it's bracket. Here,



(just to the right of the lift arm in the picture, if you remove the 2 bolts here and on the other side, you won't need to remove the seat)

3) before removing the seat bracket support bolts, un-clip the occupant safety switch under the seat and make sure the wire is clear of the body, now remove those bolts-2 on each side as mentioned in the note above.

4)Important-Important-(I'm trying to spare you some trouble here) Remove the fuel cap, and tie, make note of fuel filler return breather nipple, here,



and carefully lift the body without breaking this nipple, as I didn't.

I make a note here on fuel removal, if it was me, I would run the tank mostly dry, disconnect the fuel hose at the breather valve and on top of the tank, having an empty fuel container to let the main fuel hose drain into, won't be much.

The hardest part is done, relax, simple from here.

If you have an impact, even a cordless, the torque spec is not high, remove the pulley/fan bolt. I would hold the pulley belt tight on the pulley and remove the bolt. That's a safe way to protect the fan blades, they do break easily. now remove the 10mm bolt I think its 10mm, from the transaxle where the reservoir bottle drains into, this is your hydraulic pump side fill. clean your reservoir bottle, you can use soap and water, but rinse well and use a heat gun, blow dryer, something, no water at all, and not too hot, its plastic.

Open the gear side of transaxle. the easiest way to do this next part, have a measuring cup of sufficient size and drain each side into it one at a time. keeping track of what came out. What comes out goes back in (in measure of course). For the extra vigilant, (I'm like this, you don't need to) put the bolts back in on the bottom and wait. after an hr ish find out what more comes out, record for each side. Have the tractor level when doing this. follow tuff torq instruction on your fill, I think you are in a mild climate and cold in winter, right? If so, the Tuff Torq oil is probably the right weight for you, (a 30W) I only use the 10-50, 5-50 oil because of the extreme duty/ high heat use recommendation from Tuff Torq. Also if you get an equivalent grade of oil instead of Tuff Torq (a note here, I don't think you will save money here, and the Tuff Torq oil was good enough for them, just a thought) make sure its synthetic, JASO MA2 qualified (wet clutch applications), very important.

I can go over the rest when you get closer, but this is a start to prepare for. You can't really make a permanent mistake, if you are concerned, just more elbow grease might be needed

I applaud you for care of your machine like this, and when you attempt the project I will make it a priority to be available to get you through regardless what it takes. I also see this as a great opportunity to document the process for giving other people confidence too.

I promise when I deliver the procedure it will be full of pictures and tried and proven for other peoples ease, I just wanted to leave this now since you are 10 hrs away, from the most important oil change, the one that gets manufacturing crud out
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