Re: Looking at a 2520
A little more to report on; once I got it home, I immediately mowed my property, and it was great. Then it was time to learn all about this machine. I read the manuals for the tractor, mower and loader. None of the manuals address the independent mower lift feature this tractor has, it was an option. I had to figure out how it worked by tracing the hydraulic lines; control of the deck lift is by the joystick instead of the 3-point lift, and there is now a lockout valve to shift joystick function between the loader and mower. The thought is that you don't generally mow with the loader in place, so you throw the lever to 'loader' when using it, and to 'mower' when you've removed the loader and installed the deck.
As I started checking maintenance items, I saw that this machine had basic maintenance (oil and trans fluid changes with filters), but other things had been sort of ignored. I found and greased every fitting on the tractor, loader and mower. The two castering front anti-scalp wheels on the deck were strange. when I tried greasing the pivots, I couldn't force grease through the zerk. I took the casters apart, you have to pop a circlip off to remove the shafts. When I took them off, I saw there was no hole in the plastic sleeve bushing where the grease fitting was. I removed the zerk and drilled a hole in both bushings, replaced the zerk, and now I can grease the shaft so it will freely turn. Reassembled the casters and re-installed them on the deck. Luckily nothing had gotten bent or worn enough to require replacement.
The balls on the 3-point hitch were all dry, so they got greased, too. I repaired a crack in the plastic side panel of the hood; apparently, the muffler, which sits on that side, had gotten hot enough that it softened a part of the panel, and once it cooled the stress caused a crack. I used method I saw on a youtube video to repair it by using a heat gun to soften the plastic and imbed wire mesh across the crack. Not perfect, but beats paying for a new panel. I found some muffler heat wrap and made a shield to keep the muffler heat off the panel. Another thing I did was to move the rear lights from the outside to the inside of the ROPS, I'd read where they sometimes get broken when moving under trees, etc. One of the lights was not working when I got the tractor, but it was just a matter of a disconnected wire.
After playing with attaching and removing the deck a few times (it's a drive-over, but not 'autoconnect') to get used to it, and it only takes a couple of minutes, the mower's driveshaft is easier to get to than my X7's was, I attached the loader and my box blade (for rear weight) and cleaned up an area of deadfall trees in the lower pasture. I discovered that a lockout for the joystick (a different one that actually locks the lever so it can't move), was malfunctioning and intermittently jamming the joystick so that only the bucket tilt would work. This necessitated removing the seat and the plastic panels that cover the joystick valve body and lockout lever to figure out what was going on. It turned out to be as simple as a missing cotter pin. Replaced it and things work great again. I would post some pictures of it dirty, but I blow off all the junk when I get through with it. best way to clean a machine is to not let it get dirty. Here's a few pictures of it:
'09 JD 2520, CX200 loader and 62D deck
LP RTR0550 rototiller
?? 60" box blade
Simplicity 10" plow adapted to 3-pt hitch
3-point PTO DR wood chipper
'02 JD GT235, 48C deck
'84 JD 318, 50" deck
'86 JD 214, 46" deck
'86 JD 212, 38" deck
'08 X748SE, gone but not forgotten
Last edited by KHodges; 09-25-2019 at 11:06 PM.