I'ne not heard of doing that before, but you can bet that the next time I break a drill bit off I'll give it a try.
Note that light gauge means small enough to fit down the flute, but still large enough to almost fill the space in the flute. If the wire is too small, it will pull out as you twist them together.
Welding to it is good too. I don't know why the washer is always mentioned. I guess because it is almost flat. I have just welded a little to the top of the bolt that's in there and then sat but on top and weld the inside up. Then let it sit for a minute or two. The steel cools and the aluminum heats and expands. Then slowly apply pressure with wrench.
It serves as a heat shield and weld spatter protection. Most broken bolts are into machined surfaces.
Welding the inside of a nut focuses the heat so that there is a possibility of melting the threads and welding the nut to the object, as well as to the broken bolt. Washers can take a bit more heat before melting than threads can so there is less risk.
The journeymen welders at work always tacked a washer to the broken bolt before welding on the nut, and those were mostly 3/4" bolts, not 1/4", where they could use 5/8" washers to ensure
no welding to the casting.
To lance out a drill bit or easy out with a torch, heat it to the point of pulling the trigger on the O2. As soon as the trigger is pulled, pull the tip back two to three inches and shut off the fuel gas. The wash from the O2 blast will blow the offending object out as slag without adding heat from the burning fuel gas. The same trick works for small nuts seized onto studs that you want to save. It blew me away the first time that I saw it done. I've used the same trick many times on bolts and nuts as small as 1/4" over the 45 years since, and never marked a thread on the studs.
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MF GC2310, Husqvarna YTH20B42T
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MF1655 w/ FEL, MF1655, MF12H, MF8H, MF7H
Spending too much time on MTF to work on my toys.