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post #16 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 09:25 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

This is what many manufacturers including JD recommend when sharpening blades. A is the original angle and B is 1/64 of an inch. If B is to sharp the metal rolls over which in effect dulls the blade. Roger
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post #17 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 10:23 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

2 yrs ago, I bought new blades for my '77 I H Cadet 80. I should have weighed the them. The new ones were noticeably heavier. Yesterday, I used a ball peen hammer to move some piled up metal back to the edge. I used a 3/16 round file on the few "serrations" First time I've removed any steel.
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post #18 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 10:43 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

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Originally Posted by Radnack View Post
Thats what i use to sharpen mine. Although ive heard many people say they are too aggresive.
That all depends upon the grit of the flap discs used. The 36 grit are very aggressive and remove lots of material quickly, good for removing nicks. I use a 60 grit flap disc which sharpens quickly but doesn't remove much material. Usually takes about 30 seconds or less to sharpen one edge. Higher grit ends up polishing and not sharpening as much.
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post #19 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 10:48 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

When we had the acreage I put on a sharp set of blades before (almost) every use. I kept 2 sets of blades-one on the tractor and one that got sharpened during the week on the bench grinder. Before mowing I'd spend 10 minutes and swap them out.

I was always able to mow at full speed in thick, dense grass, and the lawn always looked as perfect as possible with no jagged edges to the cut grass.

Here I only need to mow once a month (zoysia lawn) so I only swap blades every 2-3 months.

If the blades are dull or nicked, it will smash the edge of the grass blade, leaving a torn end rather than a clean cut. This torn end will usually turn brown a few days after mowing and become more susceptible to pests and diseases. But if the blades are nice and sharp, the grass will get a clean cut with reduced damage and stress.
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post #20 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 10:52 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

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Originally Posted by rhenning View Post
This is what many manufacturers including JD recommend when sharpening blades. A is the original angle and B is 1/64 of an inch. If B is to sharp the metal rolls over which in effect dulls the blade. Roger
I've seen that written up and _no_ less than 1/32".
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post #21 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 10:55 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

"As" not "and" - the spelling Nanny strikes again.
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post #22 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 10:57 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

I don't know if I'm right...but works for me.
I use a disc since it doesn't remove a lot of metal. I start with back, to be sure it's flat. Then instead of top drawing I taper down as I sharpen.
There's a knife sharpener you can buy and that's how it sharpens. Seems to last longer. Then I check balance.

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post #23 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 11:15 AM
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Re: sharpening blades

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Originally Posted by mowergene View Post
I use my Bradley blade sharpener and finish up with the magnamatic blade balancer.
Would you recommend the Bradley? I've been using a vice and angle grinder, but have no idea if I'm keeping the proper angle, not overheating the steel, etc.

It seems like the Bradley would pay for itself pretty quickly, if I compared it to paying for sharpening 3 blades a couple times a year.
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post #24 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 12:36 PM
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Re: sharpening blades

As I wrote in my post and quoting from my 345 manual John Deere says 1/64 of an inch. Other manufacturers may give another recommendation. Roger
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post #25 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhenning View Post
As I wrote in my post and quoting from my 345 manual John Deere says 1/64 of an inch. Other manufacturers may give another recommendation. Roger
I sharpen to a knife edge then knock the edge off with a light pass of the grinder. Easier than trying to get a perfect slightly dull edge.

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post #26 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 04:24 PM
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Re: sharpening blades

Dull blades tear grass...sharp blades cut grass...seems pretty simple. The difference in appearance is significant...and the cut blades is healthier. I put on a sharp set, mow 5 yards (several acres) and when I'm done unless I have hit something serious are still almost as they were when starting. Each mowing thereafter will only very slightly wear the blade...I usually sharpen every 4 to 6 weeks.

Shave with a dull blade, see how it works out for you...


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post #27 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 05:34 PM
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Re: sharpening blades

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Originally Posted by TWG1572 View Post
Would you recommend the Bradley? I've been using a vice and angle grinder, but have no idea if I'm keeping the proper angle, not overheating the steel, etc.

It seems like the Bradley would pay for itself pretty quickly, if I compared it to paying for sharpening 3 blades a couple times a year.
I'd recommend the Bradley. They're not cheap, though. The motor they employ is really heavy duty and reversible. You can smoke your blades easily if not careful. Best to make a couple of runs on the blade and switch ends or grab a different blade so as not to overheat it. The temper can, indeed, be taken out of the blade if you press too hard. I do keep sharp blades and always have an an extra set or four! Best to practice on a junk blade when you first start out or you'll be disappointed in your work. Experiment with speed, pressure and angle. Mulching blades are a pain. I use ONLY high lift for the best cut. If you can't lift it, you can't cut it!

On this forum a while back, we were discussing sharpening, and one fellow insists on doing his with a file........good grief! The blades on my 445 are so very thick and I don't want to spend three months trying to get an edge on them!! When I purchase new blades, I always check their balance and sometimes they're off. Rather than continue to sharpen in order to get in balance, I'll grind at the end of the blade, since being at the end, it will take less off to make a difference.

But, I do like the hollow ground edge that the Bradley gives me and I know that motor will last forever. I'm not had to change the wheel and I had mine for some years.

In the past:
Craftsman, MTD, Snapper, 1961 Ford 801 Powermaster, 1992 LB 4.5HP 580546, 2003 LB 10552 6.5HP Duraforce, IH Cub Cadet 105, 2001 Cub Cadet 2146 14HP Linamar 38" deck, love of my life (Sold 10 Dec 2011), 2007 Cub Cadet 2550 22HP Kohler Vtwin 50"deck (Sold 22 Aug 2018)
In use:
1994 JD LX178 sweet little mower, only 15HP, twin cyl, 38" deck, liquid cooled!
1998 JD 445 22HP Shaft driven wheels, shaft driven 60" deck, diff-lock, hydraulic lift, power steering, fuel & temp gauges, fuel injected, and liquid cooled! This machine has it all!
2005 Nortrak NT 254 25HP Diesel 5' FEL, here's a case of cost-cutting, I only need a tractor 3 or 4 times a year

Going to try to stay Liquid Cooled the rest of my life! Hey, it gets HOT here!
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post #28 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 06:30 PM
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Re: sharpening blades

Back in the old days when Wheel horse tractors was only 4hp and had flat blades you could cut anything.... Todays tractors need high Hp to spin high lift blades at high RPM and they bog down if you try cutting anything thats high. I sharpen with a hand grinder using a stone and I don't like high lift blades. They are a big waste of gas...


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post #29 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 06:43 PM
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Re: sharpening blades

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Originally Posted by Kbeitz View Post
Back in the old days when Wheel horse tractors was only 4hp and had flat blades you could cut anything.... Todays tractors need high Hp to spin high lift blades at high RPM and they bog down if you try cutting anything thats high. I sharpen with a hand grinder using a stone and I don't like high lift blades. They are a big waste of gas...
Since the horsepower race of a couple decades ago, we nearly all have much more than 4 HP. Of course, with a garden tractor, more power is necessary for ground engaging. I like the ability to throw that cut grass out and of course, it's necessary for bagging.

In the past:
Craftsman, MTD, Snapper, 1961 Ford 801 Powermaster, 1992 LB 4.5HP 580546, 2003 LB 10552 6.5HP Duraforce, IH Cub Cadet 105, 2001 Cub Cadet 2146 14HP Linamar 38" deck, love of my life (Sold 10 Dec 2011), 2007 Cub Cadet 2550 22HP Kohler Vtwin 50"deck (Sold 22 Aug 2018)
In use:
1994 JD LX178 sweet little mower, only 15HP, twin cyl, 38" deck, liquid cooled!
1998 JD 445 22HP Shaft driven wheels, shaft driven 60" deck, diff-lock, hydraulic lift, power steering, fuel & temp gauges, fuel injected, and liquid cooled! This machine has it all!
2005 Nortrak NT 254 25HP Diesel 5' FEL, here's a case of cost-cutting, I only need a tractor 3 or 4 times a year

Going to try to stay Liquid Cooled the rest of my life! Hey, it gets HOT here!
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post #30 of 64 Old 06-17-2019, 06:49 PM
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Re: sharpening blades

Bagging another bad idea.... The grass eat the good stuff out of the ground and people haul it away... Not smart.... I don't bag ever...


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