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post #1 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Cool My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

A little over two years ago I decided to beef up my Craftsman GT. After I started the project it just kept growing.

First I added a 2 inch receiver. Because the frame seemed a bit week I added 4in x 3/8in steel down both sides of the frame and welded a piece between them to support the 2" receiver. The factory hitch was cut off, floor boards and fenders were removed. Everything on the side of the frame reattached to the new frame rails. The idea to add frame rails came from looking at an International SCUT.

Second I needed more traction than the turf tires were giving me. I went with four wheeler tires that are taller than the turf tires. To compensate for the back sitting higher I removed the bracket front axle pin goes through, welded on plates, and re-drilled the hole fore axle pin 1 1/4" lower than stock. In the picture I haven't yet drilled the axle pin hole.

The stub shaft on top of the engine doesn't come into play yet, but bought it because I was already thinking hydraulics would be handy.
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post #2 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

I decided a 3 point hitch would be needed to really make my little tractor useful. In my last post showed the stub shaft on Kohler engine. Kohler does not market the stub shafts for vertical engines; I found shaft for same size horizontal engine and checked bolt pattern with caliper.

In the first photo the left frame rail can be seen and new battery location. The battery was moved to make room for a hydraulic tank.
Next you may notice the 2" receiver and ag PTO shaft. The ag PTO is a hydraulic motor from Surplus center, its the 7.63 cu in model. The plate the motor is mounted on is 3/8" steel like the fram rails.
The two pillow block bearings are 1 1/2", the keyed shaft is the same. A weldable 1 1/2" coupling ( cut in half) has the upper lift arms and hydraulic cylinder linkages welded to them. The upper lift arms and such are made of 3/8" x 4" steel plate.
The lower lift arms, draw bar and pins attaching lift arms to the frame came from Rural King. I don't recall where the lift linkages came from, I found them online.
The wheel spacers were necessary to make room for the hydraulic lift cylinders. The cylinders are 1.5 x 6" wolverine.
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post #3 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

In this first pic all of the pieces are there but the hydraulics are not hooked up. Also the mower deck has been permanently removed. The deck just kept falling apart.
The hydraulic tank is homemade from 1/8" steel plate and has several weld in bungs.
At some point I moved the hood hinge points forward but I don't recall why. I think it was a clearance issue with hydraulic hoses.

The hydraulic pump is a 0.277 cu in MTE D206-5491 (0.277*3000/231=3.6 gal/min). Used optical tachometer to get RPM.
The valve assembly is a prince 3 spool 8 gal/min. open center with power beyond possible. Figured 2 spool would do the trick but found a 3 spool for about the same price on Ebay.

All of the hydraulic hoses have JIC fittings. The pump, valves and cylinders have SAE ports. NPT was not used for any pressurized hydraulic line.

In the next to last picture the PTO motor is visible. Its worth noting that I tacked some angle iron together and welded it to the frame to raise the gas tank/ fenders and seat. This was to make room for the hydraulic lines to the PTO motor.

The two suitcase weights were added before I got the blade because I was getting a lot of push once the mower deck was removed. First time using the blade I decided to order a third weight.
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post #4 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 07:26 PM
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

Well that is one built out 3000 that's for sure! When's the AWD system being put in? Keep up the great work!

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post #5 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 07:30 PM
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

You're doing some serious reengineering to your Craftsman... I like it!

My "honey-do list" is so long it has chapters.
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post #6 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 07:46 PM
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

Gotta follow this one! Can't wait to see the FEL!

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post #7 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

Starting off a bit out of order, the top link connection points. In that same pic just behind top link I ended up adding a random T fitting because the return hydraulic line was too short.

Next is the hydraulic pump for the PTO, in the pic its just hanging by the hydraulic lines. The pump is a Prince SP20B23A9H2L 1.403 cu in/Rev.

I photo 3 the pump is attached to a mounting bracket that is bolted to a piece of welded angle iron. The green bolt/nut is actually the tensioner. The pump is driven off the electric clutch that once ran the mower deck.

The last photo is the pump from the top. The right side is pressure to PTO motor. The left is return from PTO motor. On the left there is a "T" and a small hydraulic line, the small line is make-up fluid from the hydraulic tank. Not in these pics is a case drain on the PTO motor. It drains through an oil cooler and back to the tank.
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post #8 of 31 Old 10-31-2018, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

First PTO test with the tachometer. 547.3 RPM, not bad since my calculations were based on 550 RPM to allow some droop.

Next is the PTO oil cooler mentioned in my last post.

My first PTO tool from Titan attachments. Ordered it with a 9" auger and since then have bought a 12". This is the 60HP model I chose it over the 30HP because of a slightly lower gear ratio. The clutch on this unit was a deciding factor.

Assembled and ready to go.

One more hole. Been using the post hole digger to plant trees and bushes, around 12-14 so far.

Last I needed a way to get this thing off the tractor without help. Most of the angle iron for cart shipped with the unit. Wheels are harbor freight.
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post #9 of 31 Old 11-01-2018, 02:15 AM
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

PTO pump -1.403 cu-in @ 3000 engine rpm = 18.22 gpm.

Roughly 18 hp @ 1500psi.

Nice work! A lot of serious thinking going on with this project.

The lines should be 3/4", but 5/8" will work, and 1/2" are pushing the envelope for fluid velocity.

If you get the auger stuck, it would be nice to be able to throw a control valve over to back it out of the hole. I gather from your commentary that you aren't using a control valve and use the PTO switch for starting and stopping the PTO.

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post #10 of 31 Old 11-01-2018, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUDOR View Post
PTO pump -1.403 cu-in @ 3000 engine rpm = 18.22 gpm.

Roughly 18 hp @ 1500psi.

Nice work! A lot of serious thinking going on with this project.

The lines should be 3/4", but 5/8" will work, and 1/2" are pushing the envelope for fluid velocity.

If you get the auger stuck, it would be nice to be able to throw a control valve over to back it out of the hole. I gather from your commentary that you aren't using a control valve and use the PTO switch for starting and stopping the PTO.
Unfortunately the PTO motor has sae #10 ports but I used hoses with JIC #12 fittings and 3/4 in lines; the pump has an sae #16 in and sae #12 out. The "T" I used at the pump input is 1" NPT. I was really trying to eleminate parasitic power loss since this tractor is so small. I really appreciate that you recognize how much thought went into this. I do wish the PTO was reversible but didn't see any good way to accommodate that pipe dream. I have stuck the auger twice now, once by a huge oak and once by a black walnut. Both times I had to take PTO shaft off and put a pipe wrench on auger. Thus far the most power intensive thing I have ran with PTO is a Woods RM 59-3 finish mower. At some point I would really like to see what the HP is on a PTO Dyno.
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post #11 of 31 Old 11-02-2018, 01:58 AM
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Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

The size of the component ports is not as critical as the size of the lines between the ports.

Parasitic power loss in hydraulics is due to several factors, none of which are affected by the size of the tractor. Internal component leakage is the big one. Parts that are expected to move freely have clearance to do so, and that clearance allows fluid to leak from the high pressure side of the component to the low pressure side. Undersized lines can also contribute to parasitic power losses due to friction between the wall of the lines and the fluid itself. An excess of fittings, particularly the ones incorporating an angle for changing direction, will also contribute. The type of pump and/or motor is another source of power loss, with piston pumps/motors being the most efficient, and gear pumps/motors being the least. Piston to piston hydrostatic transmissions are the most efficient for transmitting power.

If the motor that you have is reversible, this valve will give you bi-directional control with detents to hold the spool in position for working.

Installation:

Pump > Control Valve > Reservoir Return

The two ports on top of the valve body go to the motor. The drain on the motor can be Teed into the return line.

The big advantage of a hydraulic PTO is that the motor can be installed directly on the implement without the need for a drive shaft. Quick connects installed on the back of the tractor allow the lines from the motor to be plugged into the work lines from the valve body.

Sizing the motor for a given implement is the important part, whether using a drive shaft from the rear PTO on the tractor, or hydraulic lines from the valve. The motor for the auger will turn considerably slower than the one needed for a finishing mower. Changing the motor displacement is a lot easier than building a gear box or chain reduction to accommodate implements with higher or lower rpm requirements.

Bob

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post #12 of 31 Old 11-02-2018, 07:54 AM
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Tudor is right, a lot of serious thinking going on. Nice work.

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post #13 of 31 Old 11-04-2018, 12:43 PM
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This is absolutely impressive.

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post #14 of 31 Old 11-13-2018, 11:03 AM
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Thumbs up Re: My Craftsman GT to SCUT build

That is pretty darn cool! Nice engineering and nice work!

Some people would say "If you want a more capable tractor, then buy a more capable tractor." Certainly understandable if you make your living with that equipment.
But you obviously have the time, knowledge, tools, equipment and desire to accomplish cool things - so HAVE FUN!

And keep posting

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post #15 of 31 Old 11-14-2018, 02:26 PM
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I love everything about this build. Ingenuity at its finest!
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