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post #1 of 18 Old 08-13-2008, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Ford 9N 12v conversion

Ok, I've been working on the tractor and installing the alternator.

Generator to 12V Alternator conversion:
So I decided to put on an alternator because my generator seem like it wasn't working no more. I don't know if it was a burnt wire or it was used up. The guy I bought the tractor from said that the tractor was converted to a 12v. Everyone was changing to alternators on these tractors, I've notice. So I looked up for an alternator on the 8N site but it was 144. I kept looking and found a kit from DB Electric in Gray, TN. It came but the instructions wasn't in it nor was a connect pigtail that connects to terminal 1 and 2 and the resistor was broken in half but still together (should I still use it?) nor was the belt that they claim to be in the kit. It's ok though, I'm cool like that but they better watch it (I understand they probably get alot of business).

So, I took yalls advice and went to Advance and got my connector pigtail. It had red and white wires instead of black or brown and red.

Here is the log that I wrote:
The page I printed out said the pigtail connect wires should be (Terminal #1-black or brown)-(Terminal #2-red).
The connector I bought has (Terminal #1-red)-(Terminal #2-white).
I have started my project....
-Connnected the white (#2 terminal) to rear post connector.
-Pigtail the red (#1 terminal) to brown wire (cause I didn't have extra red wire that small), which plugged up to the resistor.
-Got thich red wire and hooked it up to the rear post connector, which went to the terminal block.
-The new coil I got with the kit was smaller than what was already on the tractor, so I left the coil that was already on it on. The brown wire from the coil hooked up to this:


Anyone know what it is? I know when we kept turning over the tractor alot, it got so hot it literally turned red.

Am I doing everything correct?
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post #2 of 18 Old 08-13-2008, 09:03 PM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

, Doc...

First things first... I think that I would've sent that conversion kit back, if it'd arrived here in that condition.

Secondly... I'm kinda lost... I'm going to study a bit more on what you've posted and try and wrap my head around it, but... I just don't have an answer for you, just yet.

That picture doesn't help a whole lot... I see a fan belt... and I THINK part of the water pump, but... I don't rightly recognize much else... sorry...

Hang in there... We'll get you straightened out....
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-13-2008, 09:28 PM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Don't know what it is your wanting to know about the coil but the alternator is easy.

Connect terminal 2 to the big post on the back of the alternator. The big post connects to your battery though your amp meter. Terminal 1 connects to a switched 12 volt source. I use an ignition switch with an acc. term and connect the alternator terminal 1 to that. Start it and it will charge and more important shutdown when you turn off the key.

Maybe this will also help...
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-13-2008, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

I couldn't send the kit back anyways. Cause I would put at least 40 bucks back in it to ship it off. I don't have that kind of money so I guess I have to deal with what I got but I will email the company about it. It's ok that they didn't send the belt (I got a new one already), and the instructions (I've got yall and the internet ).

Here's the kit I bought: http://stores.channeladvisor.com/db-...?itemid=335962

The thing in the picture is round and white, has coils in it, one wire from it connects to the coil and I think the other one connects to the distributor....

The alternator I have has an internal resistor or something already in it.

My ampere meter doesn't work from what I know or it hasn't been hooked up. When I use to drive the tractor, the needle on it moved back and forth with every bump I hit.

What do you mean about the acc. term?
I've got a key that I turn and a button that I push to crank the tractor. Ist that a acc. term?

Also, the coil I have that came with the kit is smaller than the one that was on the tractor I've found. The one that was already on the tractor didn't move but the new one I got is loose a little. I don't know if it's the gasket I used from the old one or what?

Could you post pictures of the wiring from your tractor? If not, it is ok.

Last edited by DocHolliday; 08-13-2008 at 09:57 PM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 08-13-2008, 10:33 PM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post
The thing in the picture is round and white, has coils in it, one wire from it connects to the coil and I think the other one connects to the distributor....

The alternator I have has an internal resistor or something already in it.

What do you mean about the acc. term?
I've got a key that I turn and a button that I push to crank the tractor. Ist that a acc. term?

Also, the coil I have that came with the kit is smaller than the one that was on the tractor I've found. The one that was already on the tractor didn't move but the new one I got is loose a little. I don't know if it's the gasket I used from the old one or what?

Could you post pictures of the wiring from your tractor? If not, it is ok.
The round thing sounds like an ignition resistor, used to reduce the voltage to the coil since (i assume you have a front mount distributor) will fry if you out 12 volt to it. The front mount coils are weak and about 3 volts is the most they will stand. There is a trick some use to limit the current using two 1/2 ohm resistors. I would have to look that up since my side mount has no need for it.

The alternator has a built in regulator, that's good. Terminal 1 is what excites the alternator to charge.

The acc. terminal is the accessory terminal on the key switch. You may or may not have one. Look on the back of your switch, there should be a BATT terminal, a Run or On terminal and if you have it an ACC terminal. You want the power feed to the alternator terminal 1 using this Acc terminal if you have it. If you do not have on I would buy an new switch about $10 since it so much more dependable, I my opinion, than using idiot lights or diodes.

The reason is, if the exciter wire, terminal 1 from the alternator, is connected to the same side as your power feed to your coil you will not be able to shutdown your engine.

I don't have a picture, sorry, tractor is scattered across the garage at the moment.




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post #6 of 18 Old 08-14-2008, 06:19 AM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post


The thing in the picture is round and white, has coils in it, one wire from it connects to the coil and I think the other one connects to the distributor....

Could you post pictures of the wiring from your tractor? If not, it is ok.
The round white resistor connects between the coil and the ignition..NO WIRE CONNECTS TO THE DISTRIBUTER!!

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Last edited by Ken N Tx; 08-14-2008 at 06:25 AM.
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post #7 of 18 Old 08-14-2008, 06:34 AM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Welcome to MTF DocHolliday.....glad you made it over here.

Looks like you're in good hands youngman, and I believe the help here will get you back to tractor'n in little time.

Mark
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-14-2008, 10:33 AM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
Don't know what it is your wanting to know about the coil but the alternator is easy.

Connect terminal 2 to the big post on the back of the alternator. The big post connects to your battery though your amp meter. Terminal 1 connects to a switched 12 volt source. I use an ignition switch with an acc. term and connect the alternator terminal 1 to that. Start it and it will charge and more important shutdown when you turn off the key.

Maybe this will also help...
Don't mean to cause any trouble but what you have taged as 12 gauge should be a lot heaver, like #4. Granted 12 volt wiring doesn't need to be as heavy as 6v but 12 gauge in that application will glow in the dark..........Terry

'47 8N "Big Red"
'50 8N "Ol' Blue"
'76 GMC motor home
'70 Triumph Bonneville
'53 BMW R51 motorcycle
VW Trike I built in '74 and
still got it. And a 1938
1.5 HP Fairbanks Morse
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-14-2008, 12:10 PM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

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Originally Posted by Terry Skinner View Post
Don't mean to cause any trouble but what you have taged as 12 gauge should be a lot heaver, like #4. Granted 12 volt wiring doesn't need to be as heavy as 6v but 12 gauge in that application will glow in the dark..........Terry
That is a pic I downloaded, lay no claim to wiring gauge info on it, just thought it showed where everything went real good...




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post #10 of 18 Old 08-14-2008, 01:26 PM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Skinner View Post
Don't mean to cause any trouble but what you have taged as 12 gauge should be a lot heaver, like #4. Granted 12 volt wiring doesn't need to be as heavy as 6v but 12 gauge in that application will glow in the dark..........Terry
I'm pretty sure that I've got 12 guage wire on my 8N... where it shows 12 guage. Now I think that I'm using 8 guage, where it says 10, but... regardless... I don't have any glowing wires... or heat damaged insulation.
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-14-2008, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Here's some pictures of the wiring I have done, I don't know if it is correct. Sorry if the pictures are bad, I only have a camera phone:






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post #12 of 18 Old 08-14-2008, 11:29 PM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve (Magnolia, TX) View Post
I'm pretty sure that I've got 12 guage wire on my 8N... where it shows 12 guage. Now I think that I'm using 8 guage, where it says 10, but... regardless... I don't have any glowing wires... or heat damaged insulation.
The wires marked 12 ga. are the battery cables. One goes to ground, the other goes to the starter selonoid. Starters draw around 250 amps. That is more than 12 ga. can handle. This is not to critisize, just to help...........Terry

'47 8N "Big Red"
'50 8N "Ol' Blue"
'76 GMC motor home
'70 Triumph Bonneville
'53 BMW R51 motorcycle
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still got it. And a 1938
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post #13 of 18 Old 08-15-2008, 01:10 AM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Skinner View Post
The wires marked 12 ga. are the battery cables. One goes to ground, the other goes to the starter selonoid. Starters draw around 250 amps. That is more than 12 ga. can handle. This is not to critisize, just to help...........Terry
You're right... I didn't even notice that!!!

My battery cables are 1 guage (well... no smaller than 2, I know). I get 0 guage, if I can find it... even on a 12V system.
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post #14 of 18 Old 08-15-2008, 10:34 AM
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve (Magnolia, TX) View Post
You're right... I didn't even notice that!!!

My battery cables are 1 guage (well... no smaller than 2, I know). I get 0 guage, if I can find it... even on a 12V system.
Welding cable is the best I have ever seen. Lotsa little fine wires (flexable), heavy insulation (stands up to abrasion), and looks cool running back to the truck battery in the trunk of your car (16 years old). <VBG>..........Terry

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'50 8N "Ol' Blue"
'76 GMC motor home
'70 Triumph Bonneville
'53 BMW R51 motorcycle
VW Trike I built in '74 and
still got it. And a 1938
1.5 HP Fairbanks Morse
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post #15 of 18 Old 08-15-2008, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 9N 12v conversion

http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/images/6to12v_1.gif

What is the thing about the terminal block?

Should I do what this diagram says?
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