1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
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post #1 of 26 Old 05-01-2019, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

My tractor has been converted over to 12v. It was running great then engine died. It won’t start now.
I’ve replaced most ignition parts: starter solenoid, ignition switch, resistor, points & condenser. Still to no avail!
All it does is click once, it doesn’t even turnover. I have 12.6+ volts at battery, starter solenoid, key switch, & start button.
I am scratching my head a lot lately.
When I replaced the key switch it turned over but wouldn’t start. I replaced the coil, now it just clicks again. I put the old coil back on. It won’t turnover any more. It must be more than one issue, idk! Help please
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post #2 of 26 Old 05-01-2019, 08:31 PM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

The starter not turning has nothing to do with the ignition circuit (points, condenser, coil, resistor, etc.) Those components only supply spark to the spark plugs when the engine is turning.

The starter and starter solenoid, along with the the starter switch, and all of the wires that are interconnecting them are the only things involved in the starter motor spinning the engine. Oh yeah, and the battery.

So now let's get down to your description of the problem. This first part doesn't really tell us anything other than it won't start. It doesn't say anything about whether the starter motor is engaging the engine and turning it:

Quote:
It wonít start now.
Iíve replaced most ignition parts: starter solenoid, ignition switch, resistor, points & condenser. Still to no avail!
All it does is click once, it doesnít even turnover. I have 12.6+ volts at battery, starter solenoid, key switch, & start button.
I am scratching my head a lot lately.
This next part gives us a clue that you hear a click and the starter doesn't even spin::

Quote:
All it does is click once, it doesnít even turnover.
This next part sounds like the original key switch had a problem:

Quote:
When I replaced the key switch it turned over but wouldnít start.
This next part indicates that you might have mis-wired something when you replaced the coil, or possibly installed an incorrect type of coil, since the starter was turning after the previous step:

Quote:
I replaced the coil, now it just clicks again.
This next part has me puzzled:

Quote:
I put the old coil back on. It wonít turnover any more.
Does it still click or doe is not even do that after putting the original coil back in?

The fact that you measure 12 .6 volts at the battery doesn't tell us anything about how much current the battery is able to supply, and it is the current that turns the starter motor. Have you measured the voltage at the battery when the starter switch is engaged (while it is trying to supply current)? If the voltage doesn't stay above 10 volts when the starter switch is engaged then the battery needs to be charged, and if it still drops below 10 volts when trying to start it after properly charging it then the battery needs to be replaced.

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post #3 of 26 Old 05-02-2019, 08:35 AM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

Sounds to me like corrosion on the battery terminals. Classic click and then nothing, because the high resistance poor connection burns out with the high current.

Pull the cables and clean everything (terminals, battery posts). Then try again. Also check the cable ground connection and positive cable connection.
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-02-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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I connected jumper cables from the battery to the starter bypassing the solenoid. The starter turned over but still wouldn’t start. That is when I started replacing the ignition parts. I haven’t checked to see if voltage dropped when trying to start (I doubt that is the problem because of the bypass listed above). I will clean the battery posts & check cables and reply back. Thank you!
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post #5 of 26 Old 05-02-2019, 09:55 AM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

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Originally Posted by terryd9786 View Post
I connected jumper cables from the battery to the starter bypassing the solenoid. The starter turned over but still wouldnít start. That is when I started replacing the ignition parts. I havenít checked to see if voltage dropped when trying to start (I doubt that is the problem because of the bypass listed above). I will clean the battery posts & check cables and reply back. Thank you!
I'm not sure that connecting directly to the starter ensures that the ignition circuit was energized. It could have been, but depends on the wiring.

I'd connect the jumper cables to the battery cables, and then check for spark when turning it over.

I'd also still make sure the battery connection is good. There is a lot of loss in cables, especially cheap thin ones.
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post #6 of 26 Old 05-02-2019, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Nouveau Redneck- my deduction was that I have multiple issues happening here as why it won’t turnover or start. With the new key switch it turned over but wouldn’t start. However, when I put the old coil back on (yes) it just clicks again and won’t turn over. I don’t believe I have mis-wired something. It’s too simple to mis-wire! It could be that the battery loses power when trying to start or bad connections or cables as to why it won’t turn over. Could it be that my new switch is fried or that maybe I have a bad start push button? I read where I could check the push button by grounding the hot wire going to it, bypassing the button. I tried this but it did nothing. Not even a click.
It could be that my coil is bad also as to why it won’t start since I’ve replaced points & condenser already.
I’m charging my battery today (getting weak)
I will measure the voltage from my battery while trying to start it tonite. Thanks!
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post #7 of 26 Old 05-02-2019, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I found that the positive cable from the battery to the starter solenoid was bad. I replaced it. It is turning over strong now but still doesn’t crank. I have 12+ volts from my key switch to the resistor but only 3+ volts out of the resistor to the coil. Does this mean I have the wrong or a bad resistor? What voltage should I have going to my coil?
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-03-2019, 08:54 AM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

You should have 12V to the coil. Could be either the resistor or the coil, or both (or the wire in between). I'm not sure which coil you have on at this point, but I would put the new one on. If you still don't have 12V, change the resistor.

The good news - you're narrowing it down and getting closer. Keep at it.
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post #9 of 26 Old 05-03-2019, 10:06 AM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

Is this a front mount distributor or a side mount? I know that the front mounts had a resister even though they were only 6 volts, but the side mounts didn't.

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post #10 of 26 Old 05-04-2019, 07:19 AM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

use sandpaper to clean the battery posts, starter cable and ground cable and post back.

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post #11 of 26 Old 05-04-2019, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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It’s a front mount distributor. Yes I cleaned posts with sandpaper. I now have 12v at the coil. I have spark on all four plugs! If I have spark then it must be a fuel problem, right.
My carburetor is getting fuel but is running out at the intake, dripping on the ground. I’m assuming that I need a carb rebuild. Smh, yes narrowing it down. Still won’t crank tho. I watched a video on the rebuild. It seems fairly simple. I’ve already cleaned the carb previously. I took it apart & soaked it in carb cleaner, but I didn’t remove or replace the needle valves, they weren’t gummed up. The float is good. I checked that already too.
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post #12 of 26 Old 05-04-2019, 03:53 PM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

Quote:
Originally Posted by terryd9786 View Post
Ok, I found that the positive cable from the battery to the starter solenoid was bad. I replaced it. It is turning over strong now but still doesnít crank. I have 12+ volts from my key switch to the resistor but only 3+ volts out of the resistor to the coil. Does this mean I have the wrong or a bad resistor? What voltage should I have going to my coil?
If you bought a new coil you probably no longer need the resister. After my 12v I had to bypass the resister behind the dash.

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post #13 of 26 Old 05-04-2019, 03:54 PM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

Quote:
Originally Posted by terryd9786 View Post
Itís a front mount distributor. Yes I cleaned posts with sandpaper. I now have 12v at the coil. I have spark on all four plugs! If I have spark then it must be a fuel problem, right.
My carburetor is getting fuel but is running out at the intake, dripping on the ground. Iím assuming that I need a carb rebuild. Smh, yes narrowing it down. Still wonít crank tho. I watched a video on the rebuild. It seems fairly simple. Iíve already cleaned the carb previously. I took it apart & soaked it in carb cleaner, but I didnít remove or replace the needle valves, they werenít gummed up. The float is good. I checked that already too.
Try some stert fluid and if it works you know its fuel issue.

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1970/71 - Jacobsen Super Chief 1450 (GT)
1984/85 - Simplicity 6216 (GT)
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2018 - Massey Feruson GC1710 TLB (SCUT)
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post #14 of 26 Old 05-05-2019, 03:10 PM
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Re: 1947 Ford 8N wonít turnover or start

Quote:
Originally Posted by terryd9786 View Post
Itís a front mount distributor. Yes I cleaned posts with sandpaper. I now have 12v at the coil. I have spark on all four plugs! If I have spark then it must be a fuel problem, right.
My carburetor is getting fuel but is running out at the intake, dripping on the ground. Iím assuming that I need a carb rebuild. Smh, yes narrowing it down. Still wonít crank tho. I watched a video on the rebuild. It seems fairly simple. Iíve already cleaned the carb previously. I took it apart & soaked it in carb cleaner, but I didnít remove or replace the needle valves, they werenít gummed up. The float is good. I checked that already too.
Yes - it a fuel problem at this point, and its probably flooding as a result. If fuel is running out of the carb, then the float needle is not closing off the fuel supply when the bowl is full and the float raises. You need to figure that out and sometimes its a pain.

Shut off the fuel. pull and open he carb. Take off the float, make sure it doesn't make a sloshing sound when you shake it (i.e., ifs it does, the float has a leak in it. doubtful). More likely is the float needle is not seating right. Newer 'viton' (read that as 'rubber tipped' float needles shut off the fuel better. Either way, you can also burnish the float seat with a sharpened match stick and a drill.

Working properly, with the fuel back on, the float needle should **** off the fuel and none should run out of the carb.

With that solved, have you tested compression? Poor compression can make starting a pain. Which can be somewhat resolved with a good hot cold and electronic ignition (but that isn't necessary).

I agree with the poster about shooting some starting fluid in it. If its got spark, it should fire off with starting fluid. At least you'd hear it run for a second or two!
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post #15 of 26 Old 05-11-2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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I rebuilt the carburetor with new needle valves, seats, etc.
It just fired up and ran for the first time in a month! Awesome to hear it run.
It’s dark now, tomorrow I’ll fine tune the carb. Take it for a drive. Thank you all for the help & advice!
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