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post #1 of 62 Old 04-15-2019, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Our Farmall Super C started running bad last spring It had a bad miss in it. We decided to park it until we had time to get to it. That time is here. I got it towed to the shop this evening and pushed it inside. Tomorrow I will start looking for the problem.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
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Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
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post #2 of 62 Old 04-15-2019, 07:47 AM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Subscribed. Looking ditto your project.

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post #3 of 62 Old 04-15-2019, 09:51 AM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Not sure I ever seen a wide front C. Nice. Good luck with the project. My stepdad had a nice superC with a flail mower on it that we used to mow the junk yard with..

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post #4 of 62 Old 04-15-2019, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Got out to the shop and pulled the hood, plugs, and valve cover. It didn't take long to find the problem. It has a stuck valve and a bent pushrod. Tried tapping on the valve and it won't move so its time to pull the head.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #5 of 62 Old 04-15-2019, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ingersoll444 View Post
Not sure I ever seen a wide front C. Nice. Good luck with the project. My stepdad had a nice superC with a flail mower on it that we used to mow the junk yard with..
It had the narrow front when we got it. Dad put a Farmall round tube wide front under it and ran it for years, but the extension tubes would get worn where the adjustment pin and clamp fastened allowing the tubes to rotate. We fixed that problem by adapting this Massey Fergusen front end to it and haven't had any problems since we installed it.

John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #6 of 62 Old 04-15-2019, 05:13 PM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

I really like my Super C with the tri sickle front end. Can turn on a dime.
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post #7 of 62 Old 04-15-2019, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Pulled the head to get a look inside. The #3 intake is stuck and #4 intake is sticky. All of the other valves are good. Still not sure what the problem is.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #8 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 09:09 AM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Are you running ethanol gas?

I've heard rumors of unleaded gas causing such. Had that happen on my old Ford truck engine. Had to install different make of valve guides which worked out great. Other option was to use a gas additive in the unleaded gas.

Leaded gas kept the stems and guides lubed better.

Running on Propane will also cause such.

Let us know what you or a machine shop determines?
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post #9 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 12:12 PM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

From the way it looks to me, I would say head gasket leaking some coolant and maybe a bad oil ring(s) on 3/4. But wait for engine shop opinion, show them you pics. Wonder how the cam looks like.

Russ

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post #10 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 12:31 PM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Quote:
Originally Posted by RussKish View Post
From the way it looks to me, I would say head gasket leaking some coolant and maybe a bad oil ring(s) on 3/4. But wait for engine shop opinion, show them you pics. Wonder how the cam looks like.
Agree.

Kinda looks like it was burning some oil and maybe little water. (but usually that will keep a valve guide lubed some what.
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post #11 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Quote:
Originally Posted by RussKish View Post
From the way it looks to me, I would say head gasket leaking some coolant and maybe a bad oil ring(s) on 3/4. But wait for engine shop opinion, show them you pics. Wonder how the cam looks like.
Usually when a head gasket leaks into a cylinder you will find a little antifreeze in your oil when you change it. As far as I know none of us ever found antifreeze in the oil. I was kinda thinking that with 2 intakes next to each other if there might be a crack/pinhole in that intake port. I'll get it torn down and cleaned up for inspection.

We do most of our own machine work and only ship out for things like valve seats or crank grinds.

John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #12 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 01:40 PM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

I had a gaskets go on my 1997 Chevy S10 Blazer, only sign was a sightly crystallized build up on a couple of plugs. Nothing in the oil that we could notice, just tripping of the o2 sensors and some missing under load.

Russ

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post #13 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

I soaked the stuck valve with some carb cleaner followed by some ATF/Acetone mix and let it soak overnight. After removing the valve springs I was able to tap the stuck valve out using a brass drift and ball peen. Once the valve started moving it came out without much effort. I found some black buildup on the stem that was slightly sticky feeling. It came right off with some carb cleaner and slides easily in the guide now. I don't find much wear or any galling on the stem or guide. So far no definitive answer on what cause it. On to the cleaning process.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #14 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 05:14 PM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

I wonder what the oil pan looks like, is it filled with years of sludge?

Russ

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post #15 of 62 Old 04-16-2019, 05:31 PM
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Re: Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

Cool project!

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