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post #61 of 85 Old 03-15-2019, 04:42 PM
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

I just got through restoring and converting a Farmall Super C to 12v ignition. The old 6 v pos ground system was a pain. I still have the good orignal 6v gen and some 6v regulators.

I got a $15 kit from flea bay to convert a GM alt to one wire. I left the 6v starter on the tractor and it cranks fast. (be aware and only use short crank cycles due to 12v on a 6v starter.

Got Gauges from flea bay and all fit perfect. I had to red kote the fuel tank and for cleaning I had to make an additional access hole so as I could insert a piece of porch chain into each side of the internal tank baffle. I used some old carpet and strapped the gas tank to the rear tire on a tractor and with the wheel off the ground I let the tractor wheel slowly rotate (tumble the tank with the porch chain inside for cleaning.

I rigged the tank so as I could remove the gas cap and rinse out the tank while tank still in place and during final I added some lacquer thinner. This cleaned and prepared the tank's internal good for using the red kote liner. I installed two coats of red kote and used a heat lamp and small fan during the curing of the redcoat.
Using the tractor's wheel as a slow tumbler worked great and I could go do other things while it was tumbling. Added a external Briggs Red in-line fuel filter in addition to the tanks settling bowl. (Red filter is for gravity fed fuel systems)

I had a old Kohler 12v small engine coil with the built in ballast resistor. DC amps to points when closed and key on and engine not running is 2 amps. (more than 3 DC amps will cause the points to burn and pit if trying to select a ballast resistor for a standard coil)

Sure was a pain getting the new alternator and water pump belt installed on this machine.
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post #62 of 85 Old 03-17-2019, 02:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

While I was trying out the Fast Hitch lift system I noticed the flat bars for the anti-sway were bending as the lift was raised and lowered. It looked like the lower pivot shaft was rusted solid and not turning. I got it pulled out and set it up in the press where I was able to push the shaft out. I'll get it cleaned up good and plan on putting a couple grease fittings in it before I install it. It never makes sense to me why a part like this would be built without a way to grease it.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #63 of 85 Old 03-17-2019, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

I cleaned up the hitch pieces and installed a grease fitting. I only used one zerk in the middle after seeing how it was built. The end plates act as the bearings for the shaft and the pipe center has about an 1/8" larger Dia. so it will just get filled with grease and push out of the ends. I don't think it will ever seize up again. I hope this is the last surprise that needs to be fixed and I can get this put back together this coming week.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #64 of 85 Old 03-17-2019, 10:17 PM
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjet69 View Post
I cleaned up the hitch pieces and installed a grease fitting. I only used one zerk in the middle after seeing how it was built. The end plates act as the bearings for the shaft and the pipe center has about an 1/8" larger Dia. so it will just get filled with grease and push out of the ends. I don't think it will ever seize up again. I hope this is the last surprise that needs to be fixed and I can get this put back together this coming week.
Exactly where I would of put it too! Great minds think alike.

Russ

Grew up loving tractors and vehicles.
Proud Owner of: 318/420/430
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post #65 of 85 Old 03-18-2019, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Quote:
Originally Posted by RussKish View Post
Exactly where I would of put it too! Great minds think alike.
I'm hoping that by putting it on the top that it won't get broken off by something going under the tractor.

John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #66 of 85 Old 03-18-2019, 07:15 AM
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Something I started doing that is user friendly to stuff similar to that rusted blotchy paint hitch area on things such as farm equipment, instead of doing a lot of prep work and applying pretty paint which you know is going to get peeled and scarred up later is get a gallon of Rustoleum truck bed liner, usually black. Just wire brush the metal so as to get the loose scale and dirt off, take a disposable cheap paint brush and apply about two coats. I just use the cheapo disposable paint brushes.

It dries really fast and if it gets marked, skinned up, etc, later just do a touch up over the existing area.

The Rustoleum has a acetone base and will soften and bond to old paint, (works best over old aged paint or rust) If applied over new paint or metal primer it will wrinkle and lift and ruin new paint/primer, so keep a heads up about such. Seal the lid good on the un-used in the gallon can and it stores really good even stored outside in outbuildings. (It don't dry out in the can like paint if the can lid is secure) Just pop the lid give a a stirring and usually not even a dried skim layer on the top like paint skim.

The bed liner is really great and holds it's color good and it's much more user friendly than applying a primer and paint to prevent rusting and easier for touch ups later. Works really good on like for example ATV racks, belly pans, rock guards, homemade receiver hitches.
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post #67 of 85 Old 04-08-2019, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Over the weekend I made an air intake tube that goes from the air cleaner to the carb. The owner looked everywhere in his shop and couldn't find the original. also installed the fuel line, water temp gauge, and choke cable. Today I removed all of the broken bolts and screws from the hood and dash mounting points.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #68 of 85 Old 04-09-2019, 08:33 AM
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Nice job on the intake..!! Wouldn't it be sweet to have one of those exhaust pipe bending machines for jobs like this..?? If I had a machine, or tool for doing one of those "once in a blue moon" jobs, I'd have to have a shop 10X bigger than it is, to get them all in, LOL...
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post #69 of 85 Old 04-09-2019, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ54 View Post
Nice job on the intake..!! Wouldn't it be sweet to have one of those exhaust pipe bending machines for jobs like this..?? If I had a machine, or tool for doing one of those "once in a blue moon" jobs, I'd have to have a shop 10X bigger than it is, to get them all in, LOL...
That would be nice. I was able to fab this up out of some old trampoline tubing that we were given years ago.

John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #70 of 85 Old 04-09-2019, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Made a replacement nut for the dash mounting screws and welded it on the rear hood section. Ground the welds on the air tube and got it primed.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
cjet69 is offline  
post #71 of 85 Old 04-10-2019, 08:18 AM
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

It surely can be frustrating when one of those hidden, welded nuts like that break loose. I guess my though has always been, if you're going to build something like that, that probably won't be taken apart until 10 years down the road, then weld it good enough to withstand 10 years worth of rust, or I'm sure they had some technology to coat/dip fastener bolts screws in some sort of anti-seize. Anti-seize is definitely my friend here..!!

With today's tractors, and all of the electronic problems they have with them, they probably should put corrosion proof zippers on them, LOL...

Looks good..!!
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post #72 of 85 Old 04-10-2019, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Got most of the sheet metal back on, just need screws for the dash. The white corrugated engine side covers that I was given were not for this tractor. They are too long like they are from a 460/560 model. The tractor came with an extra seat base that I can shorten up to make a battery box which will be one of the last things I need to do to this tractor.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #73 of 85 Old 04-10-2019, 11:38 PM
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Did it have fenders when it was new?

Russ

Grew up loving tractors and vehicles.
Proud Owner of: 318/420/430
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post #74 of 85 Old 04-11-2019, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

Quote:
Originally Posted by RussKish View Post
Did it have fenders when it was new?
I'll have to ask the owner if he has a set for it.

John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
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post #75 of 85 Old 04-11-2019, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Workin' on a Farmall

RussKish, The more I thought about the fenders, the more I could swear that I saw the fenders somewhere. Well after looking thru some of my pics I can see them sitting by the Farmall H that I will be getting when this 340 is done.
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John Deere: 322, 318, 316, 214, #1-GT225, #2-GT225, LX255, 165, 111H, 111, SX95, SX75, RX73, F525, STX38
John Deere Gator 6x4 #1
John Deere Gator 6x4 #2
Sears: SS14, GT18, 16/6
Craftsman: 18.5 46, LT4000
Cub Cadet: 1450, 124, 1220
Simplicity: 725, 3415H
Homelite: CT-10
MTD: 990
Montgomery Ward: 14 variable speed
Dynamark: 12/38
Bolens: 1050
Case: 444
cjet69 is offline  
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