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post #16 of 25 Old 06-08-2019, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Overheating issues

So I just got back in from mowing all two acres of my yard without my tractor getting hot. My problem is fixed!

It turns out the problem was in fact restricted flow in the radiator. The radiator shop said it wasn't really that dirty and they only had issues getting the rod through a handful of tubes but, apparently it was restricted enough to cause the tractor to overheat when running the belly mower. Show how important it is to change the coolant every year like mentioned above.

Now for the really embarrassing part and the reason that I didn't realize that the clean radiator fixed the problem. When I picked up my radiator last weekend I rushed home and was in a hurry to get it installed before I had to leave to coach my son's little league game. I should have just waited until the next day but, I was really curious if my problem was fixed. Turns out that in my haste to get things put back together I cut out a new gasket, punched out the bolt holes but, I NEVER CUT OUT THE CENTER OF THE GASKET FOR THE WATER PORT! This explains why I could hear water boiling in my block when I shut it off, the water literally had nowhere to go!

I wasn't even going to mention that last part but, since you guys were nice enough to try to help out, thought I would give you a laugh for the day. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
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post #17 of 25 Old 06-08-2019, 04:32 PM
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Re: Overheating issues

We're not laughing, but glad you found the trouble. We all make mistakes, and sometimes we are able to correct them...and learn from them.

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post #18 of 25 Old 06-08-2019, 07:52 PM
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Re: Overheating issues

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Originally Posted by APinNY View Post
We're not laughing, but glad you found the trouble. We all make mistakes, and sometimes we are able to correct them...and learn from them.


I was trying not to laugh, but am I am because that sounds like something I would do.


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post #19 of 25 Old 06-09-2019, 12:46 AM
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Re: Overheating issues

Sooner or later, all of us that mess with mechanical gadgets have a brain fart.

No biggy, there'll be lots more opportunities to continue the tradition before we're done.

Experience is what is gained by surviving our mistakes.

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post #20 of 25 Old 06-18-2019, 07:16 PM
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Re: Overheating issues

Adding a wetting agent helps keeps things cool...


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post #21 of 25 Old 06-19-2019, 07:55 AM
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Re: Overheating issues

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Originally Posted by Alien5044 View Post
A real long shot here and likely not an issue, but one that I experienced on an auto engine some 15 years ago.

Old hoses get weak. Especially on the suction side of the water pump if you engine has such. Once warmed up, they can collapse, cutting off the flow to some degree, especially ones that are bent if you have any of those feeding the water pump.

I think it was an old Mustang, and the lower hose had a bend in it and an internal spring to prevent collapse. If you removed the spring or had an old hose without the supporting spring, it would collapse with warm up and restrict flow causing overheating.

Like I said a real long shot, but maybe check all your hoses for internal weak spots, and also for internal swelling. Age and heat can cause the internal rubber to swell.

Good luck.
I've seen this hose collapse thing also. Usually someone has not installed a spring in a long hose or the hose has a sharp bend and flattens when it gets hot.

A head gasket leaking will cause overheating. (also a cracked head usually at the vicinity of a exhaust valve) Sometimes you can see bubbles in the top of the radiator when the engine is first started cold. Take the radiator cap off when the engine is cold, let the engine idle and watch the top of a full radiator for any bubbles, even slight bubbles. DO NOT TRY THIS WITH A HOT ENGINE. Sometimes you can compare the color of all the spark plugs and suspect the leakers to be darker color and sometimes you can actually see anti-freeze drops on the plug before the engine gets hot.

On some engines that do not have a thermostat bypass hose or bypass and exhaust gases are getting into the coolant in the block you can leave the thermostat out and the engine will run cooler, sometimes for a long time cooler, BECAUSE if the engine don't have a thermostat bypass and exhaust gas is getting into the block and gets trapped under the thermostat's pill holding back the coolant and it goes into a runaway really fast when the leaking gasket gets really leaking bad.

Sometimes after all else is eliminated you just have to break down and pull the head, inspect both the head and the gasket and install a new head gasket. If you do not see a cracked head get the head magnafluxed. (and don't hurt the messenger)I've been their on these type things and they are not fun. Main thing is too stay safe and not get scalded with hot water/antifreeze.

I've never seen where you tried BACKFLUSHING the block with the thermostat removed. If you do such, watch for any nasty orange rust coming out.
I would back flush the block before removing the head to check the gasket, backflushing a nasty block keeps the trash from being circulated into your clean radiator.

Very doubtful that your water pump is bad.

You said it was ok when you parked it before winter. (did it have good strong anti-freeze installed???)
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post #22 of 25 Old 06-19-2019, 10:44 AM
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Re: Overheating issues

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
I've seen this hose collapse thing also. Usually someone has not installed a spring in a long hose or the hose has a sharp bend and flattens when it gets hot.

A head gasket leaking will cause overheating. (also a cracked head usually at the vicinity of a exhaust valve) Sometimes you can see bubbles in the top of the radiator when the engine is first started cold. Take the radiator cap off when the engine is cold, let the engine idle and watch the top of a full radiator for any bubbles, even slight bubbles. DO NOT TRY THIS WITH A HOT ENGINE. Sometimes you can compare the color of all the spark plugs and suspect the leakers to be darker color and sometimes you can actually see anti-freeze drops on the plug before the engine gets hot.

On some engines that do not have a thermostat bypass hose or bypass and exhaust gases are getting into the coolant in the block you can leave the thermostat out and the engine will run cooler, sometimes for a long time cooler, BECAUSE if the engine don't have a thermostat bypass and exhaust gas is getting into the block and gets trapped under the thermostat's pill holding back the coolant and it goes into a runaway really fast when the leaking gasket gets really leaking bad.

Sometimes after all else is eliminated you just have to break down and pull the head, inspect both the head and the gasket and install a new head gasket. If you do not see a cracked head get the head magnafluxed. (and don't hurt the messenger)I've been their on these type things and they are not fun. Main thing is too stay safe and not get scalded with hot water/antifreeze.

I've never seen where you tried BACKFLUSHING the block with the thermostat removed. If you do such, watch for any nasty orange rust coming out.
I would back flush the block before removing the head to check the gasket, backflushing a nasty block keeps the trash from being circulated into your clean radiator.

Very doubtful that your water pump is bad.

You said it was ok when you parked it before winter. (did it have good strong anti-freeze installed???)

Did not see you got it going. I was on page one.

My tips were mainly for a gasoline engine machine.

Very unusually for a radiator shop to say a flow test was good. I doubt that I would ever trust that shop again, but again radiator repair shops are getting few and far between and some old machine replacement radiators are not readily available.
Now days I just usually hump up and go buy a new radiator if I can find one. I've spent more in labor, time and money than a new radiator would have initially cost in the first place returning shop repaired radiators that just keep on seeping and leaking and then having to buy a new replacement.

Sometimes you can see blocked tubes by looking in a radiator with a flashlight.

Good to hear you got er going.

Last edited by Forest Gump; 06-19-2019 at 10:49 AM.
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post #23 of 25 Old 06-19-2019, 10:51 AM
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Re: Overheating issues

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Originally Posted by orangetractor View Post
This is almost always a clogged radiator problem, grass and crud gets in the fins, sometime the radiator doesnít looked clogged on the surface, but it is deeper in the fins. easiest way to unclog it to squirt a strong stream of water through it all fins with a hose. If you canít see through the fins itís clogged.


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This was a problem I had with a 1961 Ford Powermaster with 5' bushhog attached. I had changed coolant and thermostat but the buildup of seeds and stuff on the lower portion of the radiator caused overheating after about a half hour of work. I removed and cleaned the screen and then using the garden hose, back-flushed the radiator and you should've seen the crud that came out! this cleared up the overheating problem.

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1994 JD LX178 sweet little mower, only 15HP, twin cyl, 38" deck, liquid cooled!
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post #24 of 25 Old 06-19-2019, 07:35 PM
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Re: Overheating issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCTERPFAN View Post
So I just got back in from mowing all two acres of my yard without my tractor getting hot. My problem is fixed!

It turns out the problem was in fact restricted flow in the radiator. The radiator shop said it wasn't really that dirty and they only had issues getting the rod through a handful of tubes but, apparently it was restricted enough to cause the tractor to overheat when running the belly mower. Show how important it is to change the coolant every year like mentioned above.

Now for the really embarrassing part and the reason that I didn't realize that the clean radiator fixed the problem. When I picked up my radiator last weekend I rushed home and was in a hurry to get it installed before I had to leave to coach my son's little league game. I should have just waited until the next day but, I was really curious if my problem was fixed. Turns out that in my haste to get things put back together I cut out a new gasket, punched out the bolt holes but, I NEVER CUT OUT THE CENTER OF THE GASKET FOR THE WATER PORT! This explains why I could hear water boiling in my block when I shut it off, the water literally had nowhere to go!

I wasn't even going to mention that last part but, since you guys were nice enough to try to help out, thought I would give you a laugh for the day. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
I'm curious about no center hole in the gasket. If it was a thermostat gasket I'm wondering how the stat and cover would even fit into a solid gasket???
Was it the thermostat gasket?

I've also heard or the thermostat getting installed upside down with the pellet towards the radiator instead of towards the block.

I left a new pilot bushing (that goes in the flywheel) for a big old 4 speed truck xmission laying on the floor one time, see it while picking up tools thinking the job was done.
Had to re-group and re-pull my xmission to install.
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post #25 of 25 Old 06-24-2019, 09:13 PM
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Re: Overheating issues

Redline Water Wetter Super Coolant Radiator Additive Overheating Control 80204


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