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post #1 of 17 Old 03-09-2014, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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DR Power Grader - Towed

Anybody looked at this thing yet? Not sure how long it's been available, but it looks interesting.

Can't afford the price, but I'm wondering about their 6 month trial program. I could do everything I need to do in a few days.

Any equivalents available at better prices?

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LS MT125
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-09-2014, 05:00 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

If you can weld and have the eqpt. it would be cheaper to build your own. DR is a little too proud of their stuff for my budget.
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-09-2014, 06:15 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

I built my version of it;





Spreads manure in the field REAL nice;




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post #4 of 17 Old 03-09-2014, 06:37 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

I don't have a power grader and can't give you much help, but I remember a thread here that became quite long about the DR Grader. I just did a quick search in the Google Search section of the forum search at the top of the page, found several threads with alot of info on the DR grader and others.

Again; At top of page click search, Google search, and type in DR Power Grader and you should be good to go.

steve
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-09-2014, 06:39 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

Can the DR or another brand be rented?

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post #6 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 12:01 AM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

I have a home made version too. It works really well.

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post #7 of 17 Old 03-10-2014, 06:11 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

I use my box grader, I'm sure the DR would save me some time
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2012 X720SE, Cat 1 three point, Click n Go, Snow Blade, 62C mower deck, Roller Striping kit, anti blow out kit and leaf kit
2004 X595 Cat 1 three point, Click n Go, Snow Blade w/Extensions
1970 112
1975 200
Gannon Earthgavator graderbox
#40 EZ Rake Vac
#40 EZ Rake Vac
#70 EZ Rake Vac
1977 MTD 990 Parts Tractor
198? MTD 990 W/Haban sicklebar
Ohio Steel yard cart
Brinly cat 0 plow
John Deere cat 1 plow
Innovative brand, Grapple
Deere I've owned, 110 140 160 210 212 214 216 300 316Onan 420 X485
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-31-2014, 11:06 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

I have one, really like it and use it for a ton of stuff. I do have one issue with it: Never loose or break your remote. The receiver and remotes are paired and DR wont sell them separately. Loose a remote and you spend the 150 for a new remote and receiver/relay box.
There cant be that many variations on the remote frequency and DR could sell you a remote.
My only beef with the thing.
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post #9 of 17 Old 04-01-2014, 05:24 AM
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post #10 of 17 Old 11-26-2014, 03:10 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ in WV View Post
I have a home made version too. It works really well.

Attachment 709257
Did you make that? Or did it land there from space?

I don't understand. It's certainly looks heavily weighted and the angle iron would flatten high spots, but i don't see how it works. Which way does it pull?
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post #11 of 17 Old 11-28-2014, 12:29 AM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

I have the dr grader as well. Have had it for 6 - 7 years I guess. I use it almost every year and it works well.
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post #12 of 17 Old 12-09-2014, 03:28 PM
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DR Power Grader - Review

I just used my new 4 foot DR Power Grader last weekend and I'm not impressed. I'm putting together a full video review that I'll try to get posted, but it's not doing what I hoped it would do and I'm already debating sending it back.
Granted I started from an ugly but average scenario where it had not been graded or disturbed in 5-10 years in some spots. There were about a dozen potholes with an average depth of 2-4 inches and a scattering of loose gravel on top of a hard pan of smooth, compacted limestone dust. Another hill had a lot of gravel washed out.

Potholes: it does a fine job of filling them in. Which is to say it takes gravel from one area of the driveway and drags it into the hole. This sounds like a solution, but it's not fixing the accumulation of water in that spot. The teeth only allow less than an inch or so of scarification. It doesn't dig down deep enough to get to the bottom of the pothole, thus it never breaks up the pan of the pothole to re-lay the whole area flat. Since the pan of the pothole is still there, it fills up with water again, you drive through it pushing out the gravel and you have the same problem.

Washouts: my issue related to gravel getting washed down the hill. The sides of the roadbed are too high, making washout inevitable. However filling gravel back up the slope works temporarily until the next washout. I'm fine with that concession. I used the DR to drag gravel up the slope of the driveway and fill the washout back in. I did this several times, backing up and pulling more gravel up the slope. It did great at that, and with the electronic lift function and 2 button remote control, it made it a whole lot easier than it could have been. 5/5 stars.

Washboard/Uneven gravel: the DR levels out both washboard and generally uneven areas. However due to the limited depth of the scarifying teeth, it has left several areas of flat hardpan with a scattering of gravel where the orange rails simply ride on top of the 2 sides of the tire tread and the teeth never touch the road bed. It does not reset the hard pan of the road bed.

Compatibility with machine: I used a 750 Kawasaki UTV in low gear and felt it was a good match going up the slope with a full grader. I wouldn't want to do it in any ATV/UTV without a low gear. In high gear you'd either go faster than the 5 mph limit or tear up your transmission. A full load of gravel happens when you've got the machine all the way down and you're going over 3-4 inches of gravel bed. You will feel it.

Grass: It does get rid of the center line grass that grows between the tire treads. However it takes a long time due to grass getting stuck in the teeth, making them ineffective at grading. I found I had to weave back and forth for 10 passes which pulls the grass out of the center line, clogs the teeth up, cross over onto the road bed and raise the electric adjustment sometimes would let the grass fall from the teeth, then weave back over to the other side to do it again.
I can't see how this would be effective at overseeding a lawn if you wanted to use it for that.

Time: If you're grading your drive for the first time like I did, this will take all weekend. Again due to the limited depth of the scarifying teeth, the first pass would get a slice of the high edges. Several passes later still left me wondering what I was doing wrong. It took me about 30 passes to get an area worked. I did 1800 feet of my drive and it took me 4 hrs on Saturday, 8 hours on Sunday, and 10 gallons of gas. Not fast, but how does that compare to a box blade or other competitor?

Durability of the machine: From the weekend of first use the plastic weight tray broke and dropped all the limestone I had put in there. I don't believe I did/used anything different than I've seen on the DR promotional videos.
The shear pin broke. Just one of the 3 total they give you, but you should expect it to happen. Better that than the frame I suppose.
The two hitch options they give you are fine. If you're going to ever back up with the machine attached, use the pin attachment vs the ball coupler. The ball coupler just pops off when you try to back up, but it's a good option if you don't have any other.

Overall: it's the first use I've had of this thing. I'm not convinced it's what I want to keep. Any competing product that gets deeper into the road bed would be better. I'll hang onto it and see if the potholes redevelop.
It may not be the best product for my use, but maybe it's just enough.
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post #13 of 17 Old 12-11-2014, 03:07 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Review

I've posted my review over at the Garden Tractor tool review section as well. Makes sense to leave it here since we're talking about it.
https://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=720106
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post #14 of 17 Old 12-14-2014, 11:07 AM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Review

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluecanoe View Post
I just used my new 4 foot DR Power Grader last weekend and I'm not impressed. I'm putting together a full video review that I'll try to get posted, but it's not doing what I hoped it would do and I'm already debating sending it back.
Granted I started from an ugly but average scenario where it had not been graded or disturbed in 5-10 years in some spots. There were about a dozen potholes with an average depth of 2-4 inches and a scattering of loose gravel on top of a hard pan of smooth, compacted limestone dust. Another hill had a lot of gravel washed out.

Potholes: it does a fine job of filling them in. Which is to say it takes gravel from one area of the driveway and drags it into the hole. This sounds like a solution, but it's not fixing the accumulation of water in that spot. The teeth only allow less than an inch or so of scarification. It doesn't dig down deep enough to get to the bottom of the pothole, thus it never breaks up the pan of the pothole to re-lay the whole area flat. Since the pan of the pothole is still there, it fills up with water again, you drive through it pushing out the gravel and you have the same problem.

Washouts: my issue related to gravel getting washed down the hill. The sides of the roadbed are too high, making washout inevitable. However filling gravel back up the slope works temporarily until the next washout. I'm fine with that concession. I used the DR to drag gravel up the slope of the driveway and fill the washout back in. I did this several times, backing up and pulling more gravel up the slope. It did great at that, and with the electronic lift function and 2 button remote control, it made it a whole lot easier than it could have been. 5/5 stars.

Washboard/Uneven gravel: the DR levels out both washboard and generally uneven areas. However due to the limited depth of the scarifying teeth, it has left several areas of flat hardpan with a scattering of gravel where the orange rails simply ride on top of the 2 sides of the tire tread and the teeth never touch the road bed. It does not reset the hard pan of the road bed.

Compatibility with machine: I used a 750 Kawasaki UTV in low gear and felt it was a good match going up the slope with a full grader. I wouldn't want to do it in any ATV/UTV without a low gear. In high gear you'd either go faster than the 5 mph limit or tear up your transmission. A full load of gravel happens when you've got the machine all the way down and you're going over 3-4 inches of gravel bed. You will feel it.

Grass: It does get rid of the center line grass that grows between the tire treads. However it takes a long time due to grass getting stuck in the teeth, making them ineffective at grading. I found I had to weave back and forth for 10 passes which pulls the grass out of the center line, clogs the teeth up, cross over onto the road bed and raise the electric adjustment sometimes would let the grass fall from the teeth, then weave back over to the other side to do it again.
I can't see how this would be effective at overseeding a lawn if you wanted to use it for that.

Time: If you're grading your drive for the first time like I did, this will take all weekend. Again due to the limited depth of the scarifying teeth, the first pass would get a slice of the high edges. Several passes later still left me wondering what I was doing wrong. It took me about 30 passes to get an area worked. I did 1800 feet of my drive and it took me 4 hrs on Saturday, 8 hours on Sunday, and 10 gallons of gas. Not fast, but how does that compare to a box blade or other competitor?

Durability of the machine: From the weekend of first use the plastic weight tray broke and dropped all the limestone I had put in there. I don't believe I did/used anything different than I've seen on the DR promotional videos.
The shear pin broke. Just one of the 3 total they give you, but you should expect it to happen. Better that than the frame I suppose.
The two hitch options they give you are fine. If you're going to ever back up with the machine attached, use the pin attachment vs the ball coupler. The ball coupler just pops off when you try to back up, but it's a good option if you don't have any other.

Overall: it's the first use I've had of this thing. I'm not convinced it's what I want to keep. Any competing product that gets deeper into the road bed would be better. I'll hang onto it and see if the potholes redevelop.
It may not be the best product for my use, but maybe it's just enough.
With the cost of that tool and the space it would take up to store it,I decided to buy a 38" Brinly box blade and modify it to tackle the crushed stone drives I maintain. To get rid of potholes you have to dig them out completely.Another thing that helps a bunch is wait till after a good rain so it's easier to work the stone.

Here's some pics of the blade with the adjustable 18" digger shanks.



And a video;

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post #15 of 17 Old 01-16-2015, 03:08 PM
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Re: DR Power Grader - Towed

Here's my video review. Enjoy.
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