1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown - Page 2 - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
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post #16 of 24 Unread 10-04-2019, 07:57 PM
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

I'm still guessing we are talking about the crank-pin. If all the parts came apart and no parts were changed, they should be able to go back together again.
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post #17 of 24 Unread 10-06-2019, 12:35 PM
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

I hope the rods are the same because I just put a 7.6 jug on my original 6.6 engine and used the same rod and all.
I used the 7.6 valves & springs because they came on the 7.6 jug ,wich I guess didnt really matter because I used my orig 6.6 head but I used 7.6 jug & 7.6 piston because my orig. 6.6 was bored .030 over and I wasnt about to get into all the .030 over piston measurements so I just used the 7.6 piston that came out of the 7.6 jug. And the piston had " STD" stamped in the center of it so I took that as a standard bore.
The reason I hope its the same stroke because TDC on it is pretty high, I mean I can touch top of piston w/first joint of little finger, and Im awfull glad that plug is tilted wich Im sure and/or hope is why.
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post #18 of 24 Unread 10-07-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

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Originally Posted by Toddnails View Post
If you are talking about installing the crank pin, all you need is some large washers and some all thread and two pieces of channel iron with a hole drilled in the center.
Toddnails,

I'll keep this in mind. I have a fixture for flywheel assembly, used it a couple of times already with good results.

RB
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post #19 of 24 Unread 10-07-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

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Originally Posted by RI-GravelyMod View Post
Cleaned up the crank parts and took measurements. Parts look great, the best I have seen. The lower end most definitely had been worked.

All are within tolerance except for the pin interference. Will need both dry ice and a press for this assembly. Pin interference are .019 and .013".
Need to retake the measurements on the crank pin. It is possible I read the mic wrong, using my bad eye.

RB
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post #20 of 24 Unread 10-07-2019, 09:50 PM
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

Ive got an electronic supposed micrometer and its the biggest piece of crap I ever got.

The Starett (sp?) dial type is no doubt the best one to have.
When you turn that dial on one you know youv'e got a thing of quality in your hands.
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post #21 of 24 Unread 10-10-2019, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

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Need to retake the measurements on the crank pin. It is possible I read the mic wrong, using my bad eye.

RB
That is exactly what happened, the mic lines are too close for my eyes.

The interference is .002, in the middle of the spec range. Parts are ordered...

RB
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post #22 of 24 Unread 10-17-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

Crank assembled, sent it out to a local shop for truing. They perform awesome work. Already sent one crank to them for truing and they dialed it right in for only a small fee. They have been truing Harley cranks for the past 30 years.....

Found the cause of the metal burrs, the axles clearance did not exist grinding down the thrust pin in the swifty. I did a total teardown and the tranny parts are in great shape. This one will be difficult to part with, need to find the right person to own this one.

RB
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post #23 of 24 Unread Yesterday, 09:48 PM
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

Truing flywheels is not rocket science. Using 2 pieces of channel iron with a hole drilled in the center and a threaded rod mounted 90 degrees to the crank pin will get you real close. The outer edges of the flywheel are machined square to the shafts. Using a straight edge, make sure the two flywheels are square to each other. They will be out of alignment in three ways. 1, The flywheels will not be square 90 degrees from the crank pin. 2, The flywheels will be wider 180 degrees from the crank pin. The straight edge will contact the outer edge of the flywheel near the pin. 3, The flywheels are narrower 180 degrees from the crank pin. The straight edge will contact the inner edge of the flywheel near the pin. To fix #1 use a big hammer and a block of wood again 90 degrees from the pin. To fix #2 use a large C clamp to push the wheels together. To fix #3 use a wood or plastic wedge to spread them apart. That is all that's needed for an engine that runs less than 3000 rpm. If you want to get closer, mount the flywheel between two centers. A lathe, something fab'ed on a drill press or a truing stand and measure the shafts near the flywheel using a dial indicator, or simply a pointer
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post #24 of 24 Unread Today, 01:24 PM
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Re: 1965 6.6HP Engine Teardown

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Originally Posted by RI-GravelyMod View Post
That is exactly what happened, the mic lines are too close for my eyes.

The interference is .002, in the middle of the spec range. Parts are ordered...

RB
I have to use a magnifying glass to even read magazines anymore.
Have 4 pr. of script glasses but they just dont work for me.
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