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post #1 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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For about the 10 th. & final time

For about the 10th. and final time could someone please give me the size and all the particulars of the head bolts I need for the 66 model L? Ive got the jug on now. And I'll soon be ready to put this smooth head on.

I dont know what to do about the sideways pics, they are not taken like that, they dont appear on my computer like that but it somehow just happens when I post them.
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post #2 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 03:43 PM
Lnk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerrard View Post
For about the 10th. and final time could someone please give me the size and all the particulars of the head bolts I need for the 66 model L? Ive got the jug on now. And I'll soon be ready to put this smooth head on.

I dont know what to do about the sideways pics, they are not taken like that, they dont appear on my computer like that but it somehow just happens when I post them.
Pretty sure they are 5/16-24nf. I don't remember what length either but most of the holes are through. You could take a pencil and stick it through the hole until it bottoms, mark it and measure for length. Make sure you use grade 8 bolts, and never seize.
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post #3 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

Good idea about the pencil, thats how all this happened because my bolts were to long and they went down and cracked the fins atop the head. So I removed the .0030 over 6.6 jug from mine and am using the jug from a 7.6 LI parts tractor I bought.....thank God
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post #4 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 04:04 PM
jrd
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

The bolts are NC, not NF.

The lengths have gone by multiple times; I don't have them off the top of my head, but if you dig through back threads, you'll see them.

A thing to remember: None of the castings on gravelys are super accurate. 1/16 or even 1/8 difference in the head bolt length may or may not be absorbed by variations in the castings.

Partly due to that, partly on general principles, test fit bolts before torquing! That's good practice on any machine, but especially important in this case, because of the casting variations. If you have bolts which are a bit too long (ie, they're bottoming out against the fins) you can put a washer or two under the head.

Just don't assume they'll all fit perfectly. Test fit, and pay attention while torquing. It'll turn out fine

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post #5 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 04:11 PM
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

From an earlier thread on this topic:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd View Post
The bolts are 5/16 NC. When I remove them, I usually find the 10 short ones are 1-3/16, and the 2 long ones are 1-11/16.

'41 L (not running)
'43 L
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'61 LS
'61 LS
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post #6 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 04:29 PM
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

Mark,
Take a look here: https://www.gravelymanuals.com/pdf/C...L_19720315.pdf

page 1/2 describes the shorter bolts which are 5/16-18 X 1 3/8" (see part number 57) - 10 are needed
page 3/4 describes the two longer bolts which are 5/16-18 X 2" (see part number 12) - 2 are needed

Tractor Supply carries the 2" long bolts but not the shorter 1-3/8" long bolts. I went to Fastenal and ordered the shorter ones. I am really glad that you are back on this project!!!!

Daryl G

1957 Gravely L
1974 Gravely C8
1973 Gravely CI
1967 Gravely C8
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post #7 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 06:49 PM
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

Daryl, I see the parts list, and it does say 2". My caution is that all the ones I've ever taken apart (or put together) have the two end bolts 1-11/16 or 1-3/4. That's 1/2" longer than the rest. That 1/2" is exactly the length of the spacer, part number 13 on page 4.

[Later]

Ok, I think I found the discrepancy.

I measured the height of the threaded holes in a 7.6 jug and a 6.6 jug. The newer jug is a different casting, with what would have been the top two fins cast into one, and the threaded hole extending through both of them. On the 6.6 jug, the threads only go through the top fin. IOW, the holes on the new jug are deeper, thus they want longer bolts. (The key here is the jug, not the model year of the tractor)

So the bolts spec'ed in that IPL should be fine.

I'll repeat my earlier caution: Regardless of what measuring and figuring you do, test fit before torquing. It can save a world of frustration

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'43 L
'44 L
'50 L
'52 L (not running)
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post #8 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

Thanks everyone, and I do need to not just assume they are right because in a 50+ yr old machine I should have been more carefull for sure, and thats what happens when I get in a rush to. Heck the first cpl turns/rotations I felt something was afoul and it just didnt feel right.
Im goin over to TSC tomorrow because they have the fasteners alright and I can toss what I need and how many I want/need in a bag and they weigh the bag and thats that.
Theres a Fastenall a mile away to but if you just want bits and pieces a body needs to go elsewhere. I know because I worked at two wholesalers for 16 yrs. and they dont like to be bothered with someone wanting 3 of these and 4 or 5 of these and so on.
Oh and P.S. what is with the NC & NF ? Whaaaat?

Heck I cant find the 4 nuts for the jug bolting on, but there's a pretty fine thread on those studs coming out of there
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post #9 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd View Post
Daryl, I see the parts list, and it does say 2". My caution is that all the ones I've ever taken apart (or put together) have the two end bolts 1-11/16 or 1-3/4. That's 1/2" longer than the rest. That 1/2" is exactly the length of the spacer, part number 13 on page 4.

[Later]

Ok, I think I found the discrepancy.

I measured the height of the threaded holes in a 7.6 jug and a 6.6 jug. The newer jug is a different casting, with what would have been the top two fins cast into one, and the threaded hole extending through both of them. On the 6.6 jug, the threads only go through the top fin. IOW, the holes on the new jug are deeper, thus they want longer bolts. (The key here is the jug, not the model year of the tractor)

So the bolts spec'ed in that IPL should be fine.

I'll repeat my earlier caution: Regardless of what measuring and figuring you do, test fit before torquing. It can save a world of frustration
Not to horn-in but Im paying attention to it to and am gonna be extra carefull doing this, Im out of jugs lol!
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post #10 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 08:08 PM
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

NC and NF are National Coarse and National Fine. Standard US thread gauges.

Your 4 jug hold-down nuts are 3/8 NF. One of the few fine-thread fasteners on the machine.

'41 L (not running)
'43 L
'44 L
'50 L
'52 L (not running)
'58 LI (not running)
'59 LI
'61 LS
'61 LS
Mutt LS
'62 LI (not running)
'63 L8
'66 L8
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'74 Comm 12
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'74 816
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post #11 of 55 Old 08-16-2019, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd View Post
NC and NF are National Coarse and National Fine. Standard US thread gauges.

Your 4 jug hold-down nuts are 3/8 NF. One of the few fine-thread fasteners on the machine.
Thanks, I knew they were finer than the threads on the other bolts or studs on it. Incidentally I did find the bolts a little while ago but Im gonna try to get some new ones tomorrow while Im at TSC and if they dont have them I can reuse the old ones but they need about a .25 cal. brush on the end of a small driver I got ran thru the inside of em.
I have a new tap & die set but Ive never used one before and it seems like they could easily be messed up but w/all those options Im certain I'll get something thats right.
I also found 4 split-washers with the hold down nuts is that correct or did they come from somewhere else. They were with the nuts.
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post #12 of 55 Old 08-17-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

What a waste of time, I went over there to TSC and couldnt find squat, they didnt even have any Grade 8 stuff unless it was the cadmium yellow or whatever and everything else was Grade 5 w/3 marks on head of bolt.
Not to mention I had to sneak out of here as to not let my crazy dog know I was leaving and forgot to write down what size head bolts were close to. Im just gonna go to JG's and see what I can get because I need all kinds of nuts and bolts.
Oh crap I meant GT's..Galen & Todd I recon..


Wow cant believe I can still edit this. But looks like I'll be searching for bolts and nuts I removed awhile back and trying to reuse them cause I aint having any luck finding any anywhere.
But they got to be round here somewhere.

Last edited by Gerrard; 08-17-2019 at 03:18 PM.
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post #13 of 55 Old 08-17-2019, 04:17 PM
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

what's wrong with yellow-colored bolts?
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post #14 of 55 Old 08-17-2019, 05:13 PM
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

Cad-plated bolts are fine.

For this application, grade 5 are ok too. You're only torquing to 20 ft/lb. Even SS will take that

'41 L (not running)
'43 L
'44 L
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'52 L (not running)
'58 LI (not running)
'59 LI
'61 LS
'61 LS
Mutt LS
'62 LI (not running)
'63 L8
'66 L8
'66 C8
'67 C8
'74 Comm 12
'75 C8
'73 812
'74 816
UFT Mountaineer 88E
3 parts/project tractors
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post #15 of 55 Old 08-17-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: For about the 10 th. & final time

OK Thanks both of you, I have a bunch of cad bolts I bought last year somewhere but I was afraid of causing some of that electrolisis (sp?) or "galvanic action" where two dissimilar metals meet meaning the cad bolts and the CI heads and jug.
Thanks again I can run w/that info.
I guess it wouldnt happen unless I used cad bolts and another type of nut or something like that.
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