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post #1 of 11 Old 08-02-2019, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
Lnk
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Is this a 1948?

Just picked up a couple of gravelys today as GAS is starting to set in. Was looking for a brush mower for my 5240, found a guy with some stuff in NC. Asked what he was looking to get for it. $200 for all. Went and filled the bed of my truck. Will get started on it all soon. L/C8 and this '48 I think. Turns by hand, probably stuck valves. It has no governor, but the rest looks complete. Full of water though.

Here are a couple of pics.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-02-2019, 08:42 PM
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Re: Is this a 1948?

Yes, #38165 makes it a '48. That was a nice haul, especially at $200 for everything.


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post #3 of 11 Old 08-02-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tracktortag View Post
Yes, #38165 makes it a '48. That was a nice haul, especially at $200 for everything.<img src="https://www.mytractorforum.com/images/smilies/fing32.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Fing32" class="inlineimg" />
I thought so. Though I did have to drive 340 miles to get it. So the '48 has the 5 HP t-head correct? I know it is an L, so too fast for most things. That will be the last one to get working. Won't be needing anymore for a while right? &#x1f609;

The other one is a Swifty, but can't read the tag on the advance casting due to red paint. Any tips for reading this. Don't know if it is painted or stamped.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 08:24 AM
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Re: Is this a 1948?

+1, nice grab.

The data plate on the swifto unit is stamped. Note also that they're often upside down, apparently to make them easier to read when leaning over. Your says 325-something, couldn't read the rest in those pix. If it's more or less stock, it's about late sixties, maybe '70. You've got the newer style induction system, which IIRC didn't happen until about '69, but original style clutch controls.

The older one is a '48. it appears to be in remarkably original condition, including the cannister oil filter and edison-splitdorf mag. I hope you do get that old girl back into service!

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post #5 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd View Post
+1, nice grab.

The data plate on the swifto unit is stamped. Note also that they're often upside down, apparently to make them easier to read when leaning over. Your says 325-something, couldn't read the rest in those pix. If it's more or less stock, it's about late sixties, maybe '70. You've got the newer style induction system, which IIRC didn't happen until about '69, but original style clutch controls.

The older one is a '48. it appears to be in remarkably original condition, including the cannister oil filter and edison-splitdorf mag. I hope you do get that old girl back into service!
The plate is upside down, you are right. So light sanding can make that readable, or should I use a paint remover?

I do plan to make them run, I hate parting anything out. I think I know where GAS comes from. When you have a machine that needs something, so you buy a wreck to get the part, then you start figuring out how to get the wreck going......etc.....etc.....
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 09:50 AM
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Re: Is this a 1948?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnk View Post
The plate is upside down, you are right. So light sanding can make that readable, or should I use a paint remover?

I do plan to make them run, I hate parting anything out. I think I know where GAS comes from. When you have a machine that needs something, so you buy a wreck to get the part, then you start figuring out how to get the wreck going......etc.....etc.....
Yes, bringing these old machines back to life is definitely a part of GAS. Saving them from the scrapper is another part. Not being able to pass up screaming deals on tractors, and attachments like yours is another. Not wanting to part them out.., all indicators of GAS, which you now officially have.

Carburetor cleaner does wonders in paint removal. Spray some on a rag, or paper towel, and wipe the serial number plate with it. Two, or three sprays should do the trick.


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post #7 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 11:16 AM
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Re: Is this a 1948?

I think 1948 was last year for brass tag. Wonder if that is still on it. My original 1949 has wooden handle grips no tag.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tracktortag View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnk View Post
The plate is upside down, you are right. So light sanding can make that readable, or should I use a paint remover?

I do plan to make them run, I hate parting anything out. I think I know where GAS comes from. When you have a machine that needs something, so you buy a wreck to get the part, then you start figuring out how to get the wreck going......etc.....etc.....
Yes, bringing these old machines back to life is definitely a part of GAS. Saving them from the scrapper is another part. Not being able to pass up screaming deals on tractors, and attachments like yours is another. Not wanting to part them out.., all indicators of GAS, which you now officially have.<img src="https://www.mytractorforum.com/images/smilies/fing32.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Fing32" class="inlineimg" />

Carburetor cleaner does wonders in paint removal. Spray some on a rag, or paper towel, and wipe the serial number plate with it. Two, or three sprays should do the trick.
32502 looks like. So, 1968? I can't see a J
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardgoodridge View Post
I think 1948 was last year for brass tag. Wonder if that is still on it. My original 1949 has wooden handle grips no tag.
Where would the brass tag be? All I found is the aluminum pictured.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Is there a trick to the head bolts? Got one off of the 68, but the other seems to be twisting. Soaking them with pb blaster. Don't want to snap them if I don't have to. I think there is a stuck valve, which is why I want to pull the head.
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-03-2019, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Is there a trick to the head bolts? Got one off of the 68, but the other seems to be twisting. Soaking them with pb blaster. Don't want to snap them if I don't have to. I think there is a stuck valve, which is why I want to pull the head.
Nevermind on the head bolts. Shock + back and forth + pbb got them all out. Intake valve was stuck, all set now. Going to put back together and see if she'll run. Cylinder s ".010 over and scored. Will see if it will run. Impulse fires right at tdc. Should I move it back to 5/16" per the manual?
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Last edited by Lnk; 08-03-2019 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Add pics
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