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post #1 of 35 Old 04-21-2019, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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8162-t electrical problem

Need a little help. My dad's 8162-t has been blowing the fuse on the tractor. When I place the key into the run position the wire from the ignition switch to the amp meter begins to burn as I have removed the fuse to see if I had any signs of a problem. That was the only wire that got hot and started to burn.

Would that be a sign that the amp meter or ignition switch is bad and is there a way to by pass it? This has been an intermittent problem for a couple years now.
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post #2 of 35 Old 04-24-2019, 02:51 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

I would suspect a dead short in that circuit. I would look along that wiring for the insulation being rubbed off and touching the frame.

Though key switches can fail in many ways, if you have money to swap it for "giggles" that might be a solution. I'm not up on which key switch you have but am sure you can find a diagram with a part number search and do some continuity testing on it in different key positions.

Rich

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post #3 of 35 Old 04-24-2019, 05:28 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

I would suggest replacing the key switch first. The key switch provides the charging path back to the battery, but an old and cruddy key switch can create wrong connections at the wrong time.

Remove the wiring connector from the back of the key switch, if it looks like this, I would recommend ordering a new one.
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post #4 of 35 Old 04-24-2019, 08:09 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

If you replace the switch it would be a good time to buy two. And replace or check the plug/connector. You can buy a plug with pigtails, or the plug with terminals. You will need a special tool to crimp your new terminals to wires if you go the second route. You should use a plug rather than just female terminals on the Ign. switch. That will help when you need to replace the switch again. And you will.
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post #5 of 35 Old 04-25-2019, 08:10 AM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

Just my opinion, but those factory ignition switch plugs are the problem. I had repeated switch failures and plug failures until I did away with the plug and just put individual female ends on the wires and plugged them on the switch.

No problems for years now.

Sheldon

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post #6 of 35 Old 04-25-2019, 10:32 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

The problem with the Indak style ignition switch used on most garden tractors, Gravely, John Deere, Cub Cadet, ect. Is that they are poorly designed, and not waterproof. Whether the tractor sits out side, or gets a washing. Water will get inside the switch and corrode the contacts. It does not matter if you buy an OEM $45.00 switch or a $12.00 aftermarket one, they are still the same design switch. The reason to use the OEM style plug is that it makes replacing the switch easier and makes testing or jumping the circuits also easy. The only problem with the plastic plug is that if a circuit shorts, or overheats, the plug will melt at the terminal. So the terminal will not lock into the plug causing a poor connection
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post #7 of 35 Old 04-25-2019, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

Thanks everyone. So now that you have said the switch I remember correctly about 5 years ago I switched the plug to individual female ends. It fixed it back then and now the ignition switch seems to have finally went. To be honest and I'm surprised. It is the original ignition switch from new. Lol

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post #8 of 35 Old 04-27-2019, 09:56 AM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddnails View Post
The problem with the Indak style ignition switch used on most garden tractors, Gravely, John Deere, Cub Cadet, ect. Is that they are poorly designed, and not waterproof. Whether the tractor sits out side, or gets a washing. Water will get inside the switch and corrode the contacts. It does not matter if you buy an OEM $45.00 switch or a $12.00 aftermarket one, they are still the same design switch. The reason to use the OEM style plug is that it makes replacing the switch easier and makes testing or jumping the circuits also easy. The only problem with the plastic plug is that if a circuit shorts, or overheats, the plug will melt at the terminal. So the terminal will not lock into the plug causing a poor connection
The problem I found was that even when new the plug contacts are so poorly made that they do not make good contact - this adds to the heat build up.

Yes, the switch is not a marvel of heavy duty engineering, but as soon as I got rid of the plug, I stopped having trouble with switches. It's not that hard to mark or color code the connections......

My tractor gets washed, but it is not stored outdoors. I bought it new, and it has never spent the night outdoors in 23 years.

Just my view, but I don't really see this stuff as being designed for outdoor storage. No machine left outdoors really holds up long term. I keep my $40,000 automobiles indoors as much as possible, and I keep the $10,000 tractor indoors as well........

Sheldon

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post #9 of 35 Old 04-29-2019, 08:39 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

Must be nice AC. My wife won't let me work on or even let Gravely parts in the house anymore. If I were to drive one through the front door, pretty sure she would blow a fuse.
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post #10 of 35 Old 04-29-2019, 09:39 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddnails View Post
Must be nice AC. My wife won't let me work on or even let Gravely parts in the house anymore. If I were to drive one through the front door, pretty sure she would blow a fuse.
I was of course referring to the garage.........



As you can see, at the old house the GRAVELY had her own bay.

At the new house she has priority space in a one car garage sized shed until the detached garage gets built.



Sheldon

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post #11 of 35 Old 04-29-2019, 10:40 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

Wow UR soooooo awesome!!!!!
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post #12 of 35 Old 05-03-2019, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

So I have taken the very helpful advice from yinz all. Replaced the ignition switch. Put everything back in order. Hit the key to run and instantly blow the fuse again. Jumped the fuse and the starter turned and stopped after making a big bang. Would a bad starter cause the fuse to blow?

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post #13 of 35 Old 05-03-2019, 08:08 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

The starter is able to draw current directly from the battery through the starter solenoid. That current does not pass through the fuse. It sounds as if the starter solenoid is part of the problem. If the coil of the solenoid is shorted, that would blow the fuse.

The coil of the solenoid is a small 'electromagnet' when the key is turned to start, power is applied to that electromagnet which closes a set of heavy duty contacts to provide heavy current to the starter motor.

Have you tested just the starter motor? Disconnect the lead from the starter solenoid and try just tapping the starter motor post with a heavy jumper cable from battery +. Does the starter try to turn over?

Roger,

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Last edited by beaner2u; 05-03-2019 at 08:22 PM.
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post #14 of 35 Old 05-03-2019, 08:32 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

x2 on going right to the starter with a cable and see if the starter turns. Then you can work back through the solenoid with a meter and see if it is shorted, or if the switch closes when the key is turned to start.

Rich

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post #15 of 35 Old 05-03-2019, 10:22 PM
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Re: 8162-t electrical problem

I had one at work the the magnets came outa flywheel and destroyed and shorted the stator out. Guy did same thing by jumping the fuse and melting the wireing.

Steven Turcheck
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