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post #16 of 65 Old 10-26-2018, 08:08 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

For 23 years, I have used nothing but genuine Kohler oil filters, #52-050-02S. Same with air filters and fuel filters, always OEM.

Manufacturers tend to source their parts from the highest quality vendors - why? Because they want to avoid warranty problems. Does that sometimes mean they cost a little more? Yes.

Oil - I don't know what part of PA you are in, or where you will store your tractor, but I have always run straight SAE 30 in my tractor year round. And like you, I change it every spring and every fall regardless of hours. Why 30 weight in the winter? My tractor has always been stored in a relatively warm building in winter, and yes it is used to plow or blow snow as needed.

So my "start up" temperature, or storage temperature is seldom below freezing. Once running, the engine has no idea how cold it is........

The additives in multi weight oil contribute to carbon buildup on the cylinder heads. Kohler recommends removing and cleaning the heads every 500 hours. Mine went 800 before it required cleaning. And when I did pull the heads, the cylinder walls still showed factory crosshatch honing, so cold starts here in Maryland with SAE30 for 23 years have not had any ill effects. I also have used mostly Kohler branded oil in the engine......

Yes, the hour meter is not a real big deal. I did make note of the number of hours for a few big repairs, but again I always do maintenance based on spring and fall.

Be sure to post some photos when she is cleaned up!

Sheldon

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post #17 of 65 Old 10-26-2018, 08:36 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

The tractor was a 1990 model by the serial number. Original engine is a 1990 also.

Current L/C count = 38.
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post #18 of 65 Old 10-26-2018, 08:55 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

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Originally Posted by Fla Don View Post
The tractor was a 1990 model by the serial number. Original engine is a 1990 also.
Thanks Don.

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post #19 of 65 Old 10-26-2018, 09:00 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

Agree with Sheldon on straight 30wt unless you are storing it and starting it in an unheated space; I would not want to startup a Magnum filled with 30wt in sub-freezing temps. Otherwise stay away from the multi-weight oils in these engines if you can. I use Rotella SAE30 year-round in the motor and transaxle (yes you should drain and refill the transaxle oil too). My tractor spends the winter in an unheated but attached garage so it's never being started much below 40*.

Download the operator's manual if you haven't already, and lube everything specified. The brake and directional pedal, the corresponding linkages, and the cross rod in your picture (above the clutches) need to be lubed. Gravely recommends oiling quite a few places where they didn't bother to use bushings.

When you get more familiar with the clutch operation, I would pull the clutches, check the bearings, and lube the splines. Definitely do it all before plowing season. Once you have it all cleaned up and lubed I would read up on checking the free play in the PTO lever. Too little free play will wear the clutch lining prematurely. It's an easy procedure to mess up so you may want to also check back here. You can probably hold off on this until spring, unless you'll be running that blower I see in the pics.

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post #20 of 65 Old 10-26-2018, 11:38 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

Well im on the other side I run 10W30 or 40 year round. Trans and engine purely because I can't remember if I changed oil in said machine or not for winter lol. A small engine oil is good and kohler sells a 30w or a 10w 30 so do as you wish

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post #21 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

Quote:
Originally Posted by yamato72 View Post
Agree with Sheldon on straight 30wt unless you are storing it and starting it in an unheated space; I would not want to startup a Magnum filled with 30wt in sub-freezing temps. Otherwise stay away from the multi-weight oils in these engines if you can. I use Rotella SAE30 year-round in the motor and transaxle (yes you should drain and refill the transaxle oil too). My tractor spends the winter in an unheated but attached garage so it's never being started much below 40*.
It will reside in an unheated attached garage that rarely gets down to even 40 degrees so I think I'll stick with straight 30wt.

I will grease everything according to the manual today and should be able to get to the clutch splines tomorrow afternoon. Do you guys have a preferred grease? My dad gave me a few tubes of Redline CV-2 synthetic grease. It's got "Red Moly" in it... whatever the heck that is? See attached pics. I think he said they used it to pack cv joints in some of their high performance race cars. I'd like to use it just because I have it but it may not be a good application for the Gravely? If there does seem to be a preferred grease i can run out and buy a few tubes this afternoon.

Also... a bit off topic but the guy I bought it from had three cans of original Gravely paint in the big pile of stuff that came along with it. I thought maybe someone might find the part numbers useful? I'd guess that the newer of the three cans was purchased for the 16G. The two older cans are probably way older... I think the guy owned an 816 before the 16G so they were probably meant for that. The fact that they still have lead in them must date them back a ways...
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post #22 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 04:51 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

That grease will work fine, no worries.

The older paint appears to be from the 70's or early 80's, yes industrial spray paint would have still contained a little lead.

Sheldon

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post #23 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

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Originally Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL View Post
That grease will work fine, no worries.

Sheldon
Roger that

I'm starting to find a few of her secrets.... what's up with that funky bolt through the left deck spindle? Looks like a bodge job. Shouldn't there be a grease nipple on top on that bolt?

I've also found a few non-original crimp terminals with cut leads married to existing leads. I need to get out the multimeter and start taking notes I think...
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post #24 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 06:32 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

The original GRAVELY spindles in the G era have automotive type wheel bearings and top grease fittings.

Near the end of production for those decks, also used on Walk Behind tractors with an A frame attachment, the spindle was changed to a "permanently lubed" design.

It is very possible that one of the originals failed and was replaced with a sealed spindle.

Do the other two have grease fittings?

Deep in the improvement thread you will learn a lot about the deck spindles........

Sheldon

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post #25 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

After looking.... there's also a grade 8 bolt through the middle spindle but the right spindle does have a grease nipple (see attached).
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post #26 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

The deck has been patched in three areas (very good patches in my opinion) but, I do have a 50" deck from another machine that is in spectacular condition with all original parts, no patches, an almost new belt, and fresh bearings on all spindles and pulleys. I'm thinking of just moving the good condition deck to the newly acquired machine.

I'm still curious why there's two grade 8 bolts through two of three spindles and a grease nipple on the third? I guess I'm thinking the two non nipple bolts were a bodge but maybe this is "normal" or "acceptable"?
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post #27 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 07:37 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyhome View Post
The deck has been patched in three areas (very good patches in my opinion) but, I do have a 50" deck from another machine that is in spectacular condition with all original parts, no patches, an almost new belt, and fresh bearings on all spindles and pulleys. I'm thinking of just moving the good condition deck to the newly acquired machine.

I'm still curious why there's two grade 8 bolts through two of three spindles and a grease nipple on the third? I guess I'm thinking the two non nipple bolts were a bodge but maybe this is "normal" or "acceptable"?
The maintenance-free spindles have a coarse-threaded hole at the top, and lock the sheave (pulley) down with a bolt and washer. The regular spindles have a fine-threaded hole for the zerk, and are threaded on the outside for a nut and washer to tighten against the sheave. I think you have a maintenance-free spindle in that position.



Note that the image above is from my 60" deck, left side, which differs from yours on account of it having a taller, keyed shaft for a double-sheave. But it illustrates what I'm trying to describe. I don't like mixing the spindle types because they use different (or no) blade cradles, which causes the blades to sit at slightly different heights relative to each other.

In your case I would cannibalize the deck for spindles and other hard-to-acquire parts, and use the nicer one.

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Last edited by yamato72; 10-27-2018 at 07:50 PM. Reason: typos
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post #28 of 65 Old 10-27-2018, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL View Post
The original GRAVELY spindles in the G era have automotive type wheel bearings and top grease fittings.

Near the end of production for those decks, also used on Walk Behind tractors with an A frame attachment, the spindle was changed to a "permanently lubed" design.

It is very possible that one of the originals failed and was replaced with a sealed spindle.
Sheldon
I failed to look at your post closely, Sheldon. All apologies. Thanks for the pics Yamoto. I may have a bit of a frankenstein mower deck on my hands here. I'll drop the deck tomorrow and have a look.
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post #29 of 65 Old 11-04-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

Well, work got in the way and I still haven't had a chance to drop the mower deck. I will have to mow one more time this season so I think I'll wait until I get that accomplished then investigate further.

I was fiddling with the 16G last night and noticed a good amount of slop in the steering. The inner and outer ball joint (part #30 on the attached IPL) are worn on both sides. I also noticed there is a good amount of play between the tie rod axle arm (part #43) and the king pin weldment (part #47) on the right hand side. Annnddd.... the axle pivot tube seems to be worn.

In regards to the steering rods and ends.... Sheldon, you posted this on page 20 of your 16G Improvements page:

QUOTE:

For those of you who might want to do this:

Rod end with grease fitting - 1/2"-20 female - RH - 4444T231
Rod end with grease fitting - 1/2"-20 female - LH - 4444T232
Seal for rod ends - pr - 1/2" - 4737T6

at McMaster-Carr

Sheldon

END QUOTE

I just want to make sure I'm not making mistakes in ordering parts. The threads on the inside and outside of my current steering rods appear to all be right hand thread. If this is the case why are there two different part numbers for the ends? I'm guessing it's for orientation of the grease nipples? If so, I assume that means I need to order two of part number: RH - 4444T231 and two of part number: LH - 4444T232? Also, I believe at some point you upgraded your steering rods. I assume that means I'll need to do the same to make these new ends fit. Do you have a part number for those?

Does anyone know of a good source to get an axle steering arm and king pin weldment? I see a few floating around on ebay but I'm afraid they may be just as worn as mine (none of them show crisp pictures of the mating surface between the two).

I replaced the axle pivot tube and bolt on my 816 and it helped tremendously. I think I'll do the same on the 16G. I bought the parts for the 816 a few years ago and can't remember where I got them. Any ideas for a source?

As always, I hope everyone is well and thanks for reading/helping.

Pete
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post #30 of 65 Old 11-04-2018, 01:09 PM
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Re: Difference Between a 16G and an 18G?

Pete,

Those tie rod ends require a different tie rod than what you have. They require the 1/2" tie rod from an 18G/20G, GRAVELY part #08655900.

The tie rod you have are 3/8" and have all right handed threads. The 1/2" tie rods have left and right handed threads.

As for the loose steering arm, in many cases the splines in the steering arm are worn, but the splines on the spindle are ok. The spindle is harder steel than the arm, often causing the arm to fail and not the spindle.

If you up grade to the 1/2" tie rods and ends, you should also upgrade to the 18G/20G arms, which are better. Part # 08763600. They clamp onto the spindle.

Compare these pictures to your tractor, hopefully you can see what I mean:









Notice how on this heavy duty tie rod setup there is no stop nut on the left hand thread. This is how GRAVELY did it and it is important to do it this way.

Yes, changing the axle pivot tube is likely a good idea. People never grease them (they do have a grease fitting up inside the frame slot) and the wear out.

Your first source for most stuff is always GRAVELY, Richards lawn and garden, Jack's Small Engines, etc. GRAVELY still has most of this stuff.

Sheldon


Last edited by ATLANTIC CENTRAL; 11-04-2018 at 01:15 PM.
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