Re: So you want to rebuild a T head bottom end
Remember now, you gotta pick up this torch somewhere in the future. I will be glad to just dump ‘stuff’ on you.
About aligning flywheels, we talked about the two alignment planes, and that everything works around the crank pin.
A crank pin has an oil inlet galley in the ‘front’ end; the oil comes from the drive pinion shaft, through the front flywheel, but I will tell more tall tales about that later.
The alignment of flywheels, flywheels have a center bore hole for either drive or timing pinion shafts and away from the center of a flywheel is the bore for a crank pin.
There is some special hoopla about dynamic and static balancing of flywheels to connecting rods, and I always trusted Gravelys engineers; hey, their work has lasted how many years?
But we were talking about the alignment of flywheels, so let us consider how the two flywheels are held together. The flywheels can only pivot on the crank pin, and if you stop and think about that, then ninety degrees away from the crank pin is where the ‘greatest degree’ of deviation could occur; but then we can throw some more poop into the equation, the two flywheels must be parallel to each other.
Using a Carl Sagen, “imagine if you will” that there was some piece of crud or whatever in the mating of a flywheel to the crank pin; that would ‘tilt’ the alignment of a timing pinion shafts how much? When timing pinion and drive pinion shafts share the same imaginary center line, then the flywheels are perfectly aligned.
Back to alignment, set the flywheel assembly, crank pin down on a clean surface; studying the assembly profile from one side, determine which flywheel ‘sticks’ out more than the other. Smack the offender with a soft hammer or a hammer with something soft in-between ninety degrees away from the crank pin on the offending wheel, until the two flywheels shadow each other perfectly. Or until a straight edge on the outside flywheel surfaces sits perfectly square on both wheel outside edges.
Faux Pas are my forte