Doh, forgot I can't edit the original post. Here's what I learned through trial & error...
1. The $14 carb does work on the Suzuki with stock studs & only 1 Honda gasket,
2. You'll spend less time than me on mods,
3. A Mikuni may be better, but it's not 10 times better like the price.
The summary of changes needed
1. Remove mikuni & clean up old gaskets if you’re going to reuse. All gaskets on the engine side of the carb can be reused.
2. Tape up all the places on the Honda Carb you don’t want aluminum shavings, and enlarge the mounting holes towards the center of the carb body. I couldn’t get a dremel in the holes, so I used a regular round file. Probably took 10 minutes – not a big deal.
Notch the back side of the throttle arm on the carb, may help get a lower idle. 1 of my Suzukis needed it, the other didn't.
3. Drilled the main jet to .78 mm or wire gauge 68. Duraforce folks should know this size well. Main jet can be difficult to get to drop down, carefully unscrew it through 2 stages of threads.
4. Attach the stock linkages to the Honda carb, and mount the carb to the stock studs. Here is where everyone gets to play their games for getting the carb on/off the studs. I was able to get the carb on/off with linkages attached, but it was a squuuueeze.
5. Start practice fitting the airbox, you’ll have to do 3 things:
a. Cut the gasket listed below to be very close to the carb body, or the airbox won’t fit flush, and
b. Grind away/cut away a lot of the plastic on the choke lever. Just lots of trial & error.
c. *important* Drill out a hole in the airbox & metal mounting plate for the pilot jet air inlet (to match the hole in the top left of the gasket). I used a 11/32" bit I believe, whatever fits the gasket, do not restrict this or you will run rich. Ensure the airbox, plate, gasket & carb air inlets all align!
Grind off the tamper proof notch on the idle screw. This lets you adjust your mixture at idle for your pleasure. I'm running 1/2 a turn out, but stock seemed OK too.