Common Implements for the Ford N Series tractors - - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
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post #1 of 3 Old 07-13-2011, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Common Implements for the Ford N Series tractors

(*Note: This list was compiled in conjunction with member soundguy)
It seems like weekly the question comes up, “Can my 'N' run/use ______ implement?” You fill in the blank. We will try to address the most common implements used by the 'N' tractor community. In no way is it intended to address EVERY implement made that will attach to the 'N' series tractor.
For the purpose of this listing, we are assuming a Ford N in average condition, i.e. a 9N, 2N, or 8N in decent running condition… not rebuilt, but not so worn out it needs starting fluid and/or a pull start.
(P.S. the example photos are not intended to advertise any vendor or manufacturer of implements... merely to demonstrate the implement itself)

1. BOOM POLE – aka crane, gin pole: A handy tool used for lifting that can be found at almost any ag/farm store at a very reasonable price. Usually have 2 lifting attachment points, one at the mid-point and the other at the end. Some care should be used as a heavy load on the end of the pole CAN cause the front end to get light or even rear up. Great tool for the guy or gal who works alone.

2. BOX BLADE: The 'N' works best with a 5'. It covers the tires and with the teeth lowered for loosening the soil will not overwhelm the tractor. In extremely hard packed ground use of fewer rippers will help. Also loaded tires are a plus. It is used to either drag or push material for leveling, somewhat more forgiving than a grader blade to level an area.

3. BRUSH HOG; – aka rough cut mower: They can be ether 3 point or pull type in configuration in 4', 5', 6' widths for use with the 'N'. In selecting a cutter to fit the 'N' tractor the 5' width is recommended so that you “Cover” your tires. That means that the cutter cuts to the outside of the width of your tire track. The 'N' will handle a 6' provided the material to be cut is not to heavy or thick. Also remember when buying a bush hog they do come in lightweight and heavy duty versions. Look for a gear box rated at least equal to the HP of your tractor.

4. DISC HARROW: They available in two styles, 3 point and pull type. The 'N' tractor can easily handle a 5' disc and up to a 6.5' disc in 3 point configuration depending on the weight of the particular unit being used. It is best to have one wide enough that it will cover your tire track. In my opinion the pull type units “cut” better than the 3 point style, more of a pain to move from site to site is the tradeoff. I have pulled a 7’; the disc was not set to an aggressive angle. An N can pull an 8' drag disc, if it is not set aggressively.

5. DRAG HARROW: An N can pull an 8' drag harrow... or 2 6' harrows (one behind the other)

6. FINISH MOWER: Basically two types, belly and 3 point hitch. Belly mounted mowers are fine if you do not intend to use the tractor for much other than mowing due to the difficulty of putting the mower on and removing it from the tractor. I believe that WOODS still makes belly mounted mowers for the 'N'. A 3 point mower 5' wide is ideal for the 'N' since it covers the tire track. A 6' is an option and the 'N' will handle it just fine provided you do not allow the grass to get too tall.

7. GRADER BLADE; The selected blade should be wide enough to “cover” the tires. This would mean at least a 5' width, I prefer a 6' so that the tires are “covered” when the blade is used in an angled position. A 7' can also be used with light material. Can be used in either a forward or rear facing direction to drag or push material.

Last edited by Steve (Magnolia, TX); 07-14-2011 at 03:01 PM.
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8. HAY RAKE/SWEEP RAKE: Hook it up and go.

9. HAY SPIKE: The 'N' really does not have the hydraulics lift (weight) capacity to handle large bales of hay. Not to say it has not been done with good hydraulics and added weight on the front.

10. MIDDLE BUSTER / SUB SOILER: This is REALLY dependent upon the soil to being worked and whether or not the tires are loaded.

(Middle Buster) -------------------- (Sub-Soiler)

11. PLOW:
a. The 'N' will handle a 16” single-bottom moldboard plow or up to 14” 2-bottom moldboard plows.
b. The ‘N’ will handle up to 2 disc (26” discs) Disc Plow

(Single-Bottom Plow) ----- (2-Bottom Plow) ---------------- (Disc Plow)

12. POST HOLE DIGGER: Remember the 'N' does not have live hydraulics so care needs to be taken to prevent the auger from screwing itself into the ground. Clearing the hole by raising the PHD every so often helps should something go wrong and it gets stuck. This is a good idea even if you have a tractor with live hydraulics. Connecting and disconnecting the PTO shaft when moving between holes is helpful, tiresome but helpful. Use extreme caution if another person is helping and is near the auger.

13. SCOOP – aka pond scoop, dirt scoop: There are two sizes 24” and 30” that can be used in either the forward or rear facing position. Older models are usually only made to work in the forward facing position. I would not even consider using a 24” but even that is better than a wheel barrow.

Last edited by Steve (Magnolia, TX); 07-14-2011 at 03:02 PM.
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14. SICKLE BAR MOWER: Sickle bar mowers are extremely efficient on hp as long as you don't overload them. A 5' or 6' mower works great on the 'N'. (*Note: this type of mower is can be extremely dangerous if you are not familiar with them. Many animals and pets have been maimed by them.)

15. PLANTERS and DRILLS: These are light-weight, low-draft implements and you should have no problems with a 2-row planter or a 13-7 (13 openers, 7” apart) drill.

(Planter) ---------------------- (Drill)

16. WEEDERS, CULTIVATORS, SPRING-TOOTH/CHISEL-POINT HARROWS: Again… these are light-weight, low-draft implements and what you can pull will vary by design. A 4 row weeder depends on spacing. Cultivators, and chisel-plows (etc) are such a small load that they are hardly noticeable behind the tractor.


17. LANDSCAPE RAKE: A 5’ – 7’ landscape rake works well behind an N

a. PTO driven spreaders will work well… assuming that the filled hopper weight doesn’t exceed the lift capacity of your hydraulics.
b. Ground driven spreaders (i.e drop spreaders or manure spreaders) work well, too.

(PTO Spreader) -- (Manure Spreader)

19. LOADERS: The N series tractors were never really meant as ‘loader tractors’ (no power steering, no live hydraulics) but… many loaders were built to fit them… and they will work within their limitations.

20. HAY BALER: I hesitate to include this but I have seen the question come up on occasion. The 'N' can be used to bale hay IF the baler is equipped with its own motor. 'N's are just geared too fast to handle a baler at PTO engine speed.

21. TILLER: The 'N' tractor WILL NOT RUN A TILLER! Unless the tractor is equipped with a rare Howard or Everett auxiliary transmission. The ground speed is simply too fast without it. Another option if you REALLY must use a tiller with an 'N' would be a tiller with its own engine.

Last edited by Steve (Magnolia, TX); 07-14-2011 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:57 PM
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