My Tractor Forum banner

advice on possible ford industrial purchase

1K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  oldhousehugger 
#1 ·
The only experience I've had with tractors has been working with my father-in-law's kubota CUT, but I'm looking for something for myself now and have come across a 1969 ford industrial for sale, I don't have all the specs on it but guessing it's a ford 2000. I'm looking for some advice on what this is worth and whether these were typically reliable or had common troubles to avoid, etc. What I know about it so far: it's a 1969 with a 3cyl diesel, backhoe, bucket, 3pt and PTO, rear tires replaced about 4 years ago, the front bucket is a bit rough, dented in on top and the cutting edge has a chunk out of it, one backhoe hydraulic line leaks a little and one ram leaks a little. The engine was overhauled about 5 years ago. The seller is asking $5000 for the tractor. It seems like a fair price, but I'd like to know what types of issues to look for besides obvious things like cylinder compression and leaks (hydraulic, coolant, oil, etc.). I have a lot of experience with cars and trucks, but not so much with tractors so any advice would be helpful.

I have some acreage that we will eventually build on so I need to set up a gravel driveway, move a lot of dirt around, do some regular mowing, and plow in winter. I'd also use it to maintain some hunting land. This tractor would really fit my needs perfectly if it's worth the money and in decent shape.

thank you!
 
See less See more
#2 ·
If it is truly a 1969 Industrial model with a 3 cylinder engine than it is either a 3500 or a 4500. The 5 in the second position was the designator for the Industrial model in each series. There was no Industrial model in the 3 cylinder 2000 series. If it is a 3400 or 4400 then it would actually be a Utility model, not an Industrial model, but most people don't seem to know the difference and call them Industrial models as well.

The fact that it has both the backhoe and the 3 point lift suggests that it is more likely a Utility model rather than an Industrial model. The main difference between the general purpose ag chassis models, the Utility models and the Industrial models is the design and strength of the front axle assembly. The Industrial models had the most robust front axle and steering setup to stand up to constant loader work. The general purpose ag chassis models had adjustable width front axles to allow for various types of crops that require various widths for the rows, and so the front axles were not as strong and the front spindles and steering linkage would wear quickly when used extensively as a loader tractor. The Utility models had non-adjustable front axles similar to the Industrial models, but they weren't quite as strong so they would wear quicker than the Industrials but not as quick as the ag chassis models.

It could very well be a 2000 with a loader and backhoe, but then it would just be an ag chassis tractor with a loader and backhoe added to it, which is fine except that the front axle spindles and the steering linkage are likely to need replacing fairly often.

If you can get the numbers off of the foil sticker on the under side of the right side hood panel post them here and we can tell you exactly what it is. If the sticker is no longer there or is not legible, some of the same numbers are stamped into the flat spot on the bell housing just above and toward the rear of the tractor from the starter on the right side. If you can't find those numbers either, then post some pictures of it including a front and side picture of the whole tractor, and one of the left side of the front axle showing the steering linkage and one from the rear of the tractor showing the rear axle. I can pretty much tell from those pictures what model it is.

If the engine and hydraulics all run good, then that seems like a fair price. If the seller has documented maintenance history with receipts then you should be able to pick up where he left off with the maintenance schedule. If his information can't be verified then you should do a complete change of fluids and filters for the engine oil, transmission and rear axle fluid (rear axle is also the sump for the 3 point hydraulics). The hydraulics for the loader and backhoe are most likely driven off of a separate pump at the front of the tractor with the sump inside the loader frame, and that hydraulic fluid isn't as critical to change unless it looks really bad, either dirty or if it looks like chocolate milk.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thank you for the incredible amount of info! I've attached pictures of the tractor here and have reached out to the seller to get the model info.

I also did some research on these utility tractors with the backhoe, and it sounds like a common potential problem is stressing the tractor frame if all the weight is on the front bucket and rear stabilizers while using the backhoe. If that's true I'll check for cracks or fractures as well.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
From the grill and sheet metal that looks like a 4500 to me. It is the true Industrial model in the 4000 series. It has about 12 hp more than the 3000 series and about 18 hp more than the 2000 series. It is unique from the others I mentioned in that the loader frame is not used for the reservoir for the loader and backhoe hydraulics. Instead, it has a reservoir up in the top of the radiator shroud. You can see the raised panel that is the door at the center of the top front of the tractor in the last picture that gives access to the fill cap for the reservoir.

It looks to be in pretty good shape for its age. If everything it working properly then that is a very good price.
 
#5 ·
Ok , so lets start at the front end.
Take the two covers off the sides of the front bolster area and check for leaks etc. Check to see if there is hydraulic oil in the tank up on top radiator housing. Check for leaks on the return lines coming up from the frame and then beneath the tank. Check for leaks in the frame of the backhoe loader. The loader frame is used as an oil cooling and storage reservoir and is subject to a lot of stresses. Oddball welds indicate repairs to the frame. Check for cracks in the entire loader backhoe system. If repairs have been made are they holding?
There is a weird power steering set up in the bolster behind the hydraulic pump. Check first if the power steering actually works. Then lift the front end off the ground with the bucket, and see if the front wheels try to veer left or right. Veering indicates the servo linkage is out of kilter. Check the air filter and radiator. Is there a clean filter in there? Is the radiator plugged with oil and dirt which would indicate previous oil leaks in that area?
Check around the engine for fluid leaks. Are there obvious oil or coolant leaks. Is the fuel tank leaking from rust thru or just a bad thread on the shut off valve? Does it start OK? Is it being sold with a decent battery? Do the gages work? Is the steering wheel loose in the column? Is there play in the gear box at the base of the steering column? Next drive it.
Start the engine. Does it have any apparent undesirable knocking noises that it shouldn’t have? What does the exhaust tell you about the oil consumption of the engine? White smoke = unburned diesel Could be something off in the injector system if it doesn’t settle down to a very light color after it warms up. Blue smoke =burning oil means valve guides or rings or both are worn.
From the pictures I would guess it’s a 3 or 4 speed with Hi and Lo range and a clutch. Does the clutch seem OK? Run it thru the gears. Are they all there and are there bad noises coming from the transmission? How does the seat look? Is it new? Do the brakes work? How does it sound in reverse? Moving to the attachments, how worn out are the linkages on the loader control valves? Are there major leaks at the connections at the loader valve? Getting on the backhoe seat, how much play is there in the control linkages for the hoe? Swing the hoe left and right. How much slop is there in the swing mechanism? How many and how badly are the hydraulic cylinder seals leaking? You can make up for a lot of leaks with hydraulic oil, but its better not to have to. Swing the bucket out a ways and set it on the ground and apply a little downward pressure. Keep and eye on all your pivot points for excessive wear. If it has been well maintained a little slop is expected, a lot of slop means it will be harder to control its movements when you are using it. Look under the floor of the hoe platform. How much leakage is the valve body doing? Are the rubber hoses all cracked and brittle?
Do the same inspection of the loader up front.
Do any of the chrome hydraulic piston rods have rust on them indication excessive wear? Do the outriggers move up and down OK? When you bottom them out what does the hydraulic system sound like? Is it making bad noises? Is the pump giving adequate pressure to dig?
Is there a muffler?
I know these things because I wish I had done the inspection on my 4500 more thoroughly than I did. If you are buying someone else’s problem child, its better to know what issues you are facing before you hand over the cash.
I have had this old thing for over ten years and have gotten some good hours out of it. Lately the rapping sound in the engine caused me enough anguish to decide to rebuild the engine. Turns out whoever had it apart last had misaligned the idler timing gear one tooth off so that the exhaust valve on number 3 was still open when the piston came to TDC. That and other things lead to the block and head being delivered to a machine shop that only rebuilds diesel engines. They did a little Massey 3 cylinder for me several years ago and did a good job. I paid a little less than you are being asked to pay for yours but I bet I've spent that much again in headaches and parts keeping it moving.
I really miss it not being running now because I use it to move big heavy stuff around.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top