Originally Posted by My craftsman 917.27308
When I clean my deck or change the blades, I use a come along. I tie a thick chain around a low tree branch that's a foot thick. Hook one end of a come along to the chain. Hook the other end to the front frame of the tractor. Prior to jacking the front up, I take the key out, unplug the spark plug wires, and make sure the gas tank cap is sealed tight. I use a movers blanket doubled up and lay on the grass to clean the deck and change the blades.
Ok, 3 things form this recent thread or maybe not so recent.
1: Almost all MTD brand riders are 15/16 nuts for blades. Always use a 6 point socket. They are the biggest offender in riders for over torqued blades from factory.
Way above their own torque spec!!
2: Why do so many people replace blades instead of sharpening them?
I get lots of customers that say new blade on first phone call. I tell them you can usually sharpen blades 3-4 times minimum before you need to replace them. Now hitting stuff and not sharpening for 3-5 years changed this ability.
But new isn't better. Heck there is even a argument whether to sharpen new ones or not. Only some are really sharp. Most are ok but will get sharper when the paint wears off in a few minutes...some will cut you out of the package.
3: Not being mean to you specifically but you are the last to say it...why do you take key out and pull spark plug wires? It's not going to start just cause front end is up in air. You could hang it from the tree and it would just hand there and leak stuff. Many caps are vented and leak but a small screw finger tight into the vent hole will stop that. New ones are "epa" and have vent hose on top so another place to leak fuel if not upright.
I guess it bugs me because I ABSOLUTELY HATE IT when a customer bring in a mower (always a push because they typically ride the riders to unload) with the spark plug wire off!!!
I know the manual tells you this but poody doody on that.
Now if you are going to be under a push mower and turning blade...you should pull wire BUT it still isn't going to start. The kill switch is on and the flywheel brake is resisting turning too. Plus it's on its side etc.
You could put a drill on the blade bolt and spin the heck out of it and it wouldn't fire and run.
Now if you tie the safety blade stop handle up top, flip if on side and before it floods with gas or oil give the blade a good flick with your hand it will start.
Not every time but it it is a good possibility.
Almost no possibility on a typical mower with handle in normal off position and you are not moving blade around nearly enough to fire just taking it off.
I guess I'm just an overly safety person. Some will say you can't be too safe.
I disagree. You can be reasonably safe or not worry about what really isn't going to happen.
I have never even considered taking plug wire(s) off unless I am changing plugs or cancelling out cylinders or checking spark.
Don't know why, it just bugs me when someone brings one in this way. Mostly becuse I have more than once (but only 2 times that I can thing of because I am spiteful and a fast learner) pulled rope (after checking dipstick for oil because they will bring you mower not safe to start) 10+ times with no start. Then while after grabbing carb cleaner, gas spray bottle or starting fluid...I see the plug wire off. Worse on OHV as the plugs are hidden down in the head. Hard to miss a L head briggs or tecumseh plug sticking out there all by itself.
I actually dislike riders even though I make a lot more money on them. I would rather do the 2.5 push ones it takes to make the same.
I hate being under or working under or taking decks off, belts etc.
I like the engine part only on the riders.
But I'm a fruitcake as you can tell.
Oh well, I'm off to see the wizard.