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post #2626 of 2673 Old 04-21-2019, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudyapster View Post
I just changed my blades today for the 1st time on my 60" Fab deck on my XT3GSX.
I have a little over 70 hrs on it. I used my Milwaukee cordless impact to remove the blade bolts (28mm) it sucked the bolts right of and right back on and I didn't have to hold the top bolt. So an impact looks like the trick to replacing the blades.
Don how did you get your mower high enough to get the impact under it?

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post #2627 of 2673 Old 04-21-2019, 08:17 PM
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I drove it up on my car ramps and had the back tires on a brick.

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post #2628 of 2673 Old 04-21-2019, 08:50 PM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

For just changing blades, ramps aren't too bad for getting the blades on and off, but if you are cleaning the deck, it's easier and safer to do the cleaning with the deck removed.
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post #2629 of 2673 Old 04-21-2019, 09:05 PM
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I hook the water hose to the deck spay nozzles and run the deck blades. It cleans my deck pretty good. I have a deck nozzle on each side of my deck so it does a good job.

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post #2630 of 2673 Old 04-21-2019, 11:47 PM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

Quote:
Originally Posted by BowHS View Post
My XT2 54" Fab deck is due for a deck cleaning and blade change. What are your preferences for doing this...removing the deck, using a mower lift, using car ramps or just lay down and reach up under and try to get to everything? A lift seems like it would be the easiest, but also the most expensive. It is hard to justify spending $200 for something I would use once or twice a year. Anyone use ramps with success and ease? I would prefer not to remove the deck if possible, just scared I might muck something up taking it off or putting it back on.

And what about the bolts for the blades? This will be the first blade change, and wonder if they are a booger to get off? I have a breaker bar to use...anyone know the size off the top of their head?

Advice and thoughts are always appreciated!
When I clean my deck or change the blades, I use a come along. I tie a thick chain around a low tree branch that's a foot thick. Hook one end of a come along to the chain. Hook the other end to the front frame of the tractor. Prior to jacking the front up, I take the key out, unplug the spark plug wires, and make sure the gas tank cap is sealed tight. I use a movers blanket doubled up and lay on the grass to clean the deck and change the blades.

Don
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post #2631 of 2673 Old 04-22-2019, 01:41 AM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

Quote:
Originally Posted by My craftsman 917.27308 View Post
When I clean my deck or change the blades, I use a come along. I tie a thick chain around a low tree branch that's a foot thick. Hook one end of a come along to the chain. Hook the other end to the front frame of the tractor. Prior to jacking the front up, I take the key out, unplug the spark plug wires, and make sure the gas tank cap is sealed tight. I use a movers blanket doubled up and lay on the grass to clean the deck and change the blades.
Ok, 3 things form this recent thread or maybe not so recent.

1: Almost all MTD brand riders are 15/16 nuts for blades. Always use a 6 point socket. They are the biggest offender in riders for over torqued blades from factory.
Way above their own torque spec!!

2: Why do so many people replace blades instead of sharpening them?
I get lots of customers that say new blade on first phone call. I tell them you can usually sharpen blades 3-4 times minimum before you need to replace them. Now hitting stuff and not sharpening for 3-5 years changed this ability.
But new isn't better. Heck there is even a argument whether to sharpen new ones or not. Only some are really sharp. Most are ok but will get sharper when the paint wears off in a few minutes...some will cut you out of the package.

3: Not being mean to you specifically but you are the last to say it...why do you take key out and pull spark plug wires? It's not going to start just cause front end is up in air. You could hang it from the tree and it would just hand there and leak stuff. Many caps are vented and leak but a small screw finger tight into the vent hole will stop that. New ones are "epa" and have vent hose on top so another place to leak fuel if not upright.
I guess it bugs me because I ABSOLUTELY HATE IT when a customer bring in a mower (always a push because they typically ride the riders to unload) with the spark plug wire off!!!
I know the manual tells you this but poody doody on that.
Now if you are going to be under a push mower and turning blade...you should pull wire BUT it still isn't going to start. The kill switch is on and the flywheel brake is resisting turning too. Plus it's on its side etc.
You could put a drill on the blade bolt and spin the heck out of it and it wouldn't fire and run.
Now if you tie the safety blade stop handle up top, flip if on side and before it floods with gas or oil give the blade a good flick with your hand it will start.
Not every time but it it is a good possibility.
Almost no possibility on a typical mower with handle in normal off position and you are not moving blade around nearly enough to fire just taking it off.
I guess I'm just an overly safety person. Some will say you can't be too safe.
I disagree. You can be reasonably safe or not worry about what really isn't going to happen.
I have never even considered taking plug wire(s) off unless I am changing plugs or cancelling out cylinders or checking spark.

Don't know why, it just bugs me when someone brings one in this way. Mostly becuse I have more than once (but only 2 times that I can thing of because I am spiteful and a fast learner) pulled rope (after checking dipstick for oil because they will bring you mower not safe to start) 10+ times with no start. Then while after grabbing carb cleaner, gas spray bottle or starting fluid...I see the plug wire off. Worse on OHV as the plugs are hidden down in the head. Hard to miss a L head briggs or tecumseh plug sticking out there all by itself.

I actually dislike riders even though I make a lot more money on them. I would rather do the 2.5 push ones it takes to make the same.
I hate being under or working under or taking decks off, belts etc.
I like the engine part only on the riders.
But I'm a fruitcake as you can tell.

Oh well, I'm off to see the wizard.
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post #2632 of 2673 Old 04-22-2019, 07:48 AM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

Quote:
Originally Posted by TobyU View Post
Ok, 3 things form this recent thread or maybe not so recent.

1: Almost all MTD brand riders are 15/16 nuts for blades. Always use a 6 point socket. They are the biggest offender in riders for over torqued blades from factory.
Way above their own torque spec!!

2: Why do so many people replace blades instead of sharpening them?
I get lots of customers that say new blade on first phone call. I tell them you can usually sharpen blades 3-4 times minimum before you need to replace them. Now hitting stuff and not sharpening for 3-5 years changed this ability.
But new isn't better. Heck there is even a argument whether to sharpen new ones or not. Only some are really sharp. Most are ok but will get sharper when the paint wears off in a few minutes...some will cut you out of the package.

3: Not being mean to you specifically but you are the last to say it...why do you take key out and pull spark plug wires? It's not going to start just cause front end is up in air. You could hang it from the tree and it would just hand there and leak stuff. Many caps are vented and leak but a small screw finger tight into the vent hole will stop that. New ones are "epa" and have vent hose on top so another place to leak fuel if not upright.
I guess it bugs me because I ABSOLUTELY HATE IT when a customer bring in a mower (always a push because they typically ride the riders to unload) with the spark plug wire off!!!
I know the manual tells you this but poody doody on that.
Now if you are going to be under a push mower and turning blade...you should pull wire BUT it still isn't going to start. The kill switch is on and the flywheel brake is resisting turning too. Plus it's on its side etc.
You could put a drill on the blade bolt and spin the heck out of it and it wouldn't fire and run.
Now if you tie the safety blade stop handle up top, flip if on side and before it floods with gas or oil give the blade a good flick with your hand it will start.
Not every time but it it is a good possibility.
Almost no possibility on a typical mower with handle in normal off position and you are not moving blade around nearly enough to fire just taking it off.
I guess I'm just an overly safety person. Some will say you can't be too safe.
I disagree. You can be reasonably safe or not worry about what really isn't going to happen.
I have never even considered taking plug wire(s) off unless I am changing plugs or cancelling out cylinders or checking spark.

Don't know why, it just bugs me when someone brings one in this way. Mostly becuse I have more than once (but only 2 times that I can thing of because I am spiteful and a fast learner) pulled rope (after checking dipstick for oil because they will bring you mower not safe to start) 10+ times with no start. Then while after grabbing carb cleaner, gas spray bottle or starting fluid...I see the plug wire off. Worse on OHV as the plugs are hidden down in the head. Hard to miss a L head briggs or tecumseh plug sticking out there all by itself.

I actually dislike riders even though I make a lot more money on them. I would rather do the 2.5 push ones it takes to make the same.
I hate being under or working under or taking decks off, belts etc.
I like the engine part only on the riders.
But I'm a fruitcake as you can tell.

Oh well, I'm off to see the wizard.
I change my cutting blades out in the fall with mulching blades and vice versa in the spring. I have a neighbor that sharpens them with my chainsaw chains and other garden tools for free.

Don
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post #2633 of 2673 Old 04-22-2019, 10:14 AM
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It is nice to have a freshly sharpened set and just swap them. I just have a lot of people that assume you need to put new ones on and they really not getting the full life out of theirs.
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post #2634 of 2673 Old 04-22-2019, 12:21 PM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

Quote:
Originally Posted by BowHS View Post
My XT2 54" Fab deck is due for a deck cleaning and blade change. What are your preferences for doing this...removing the deck, using a mower lift, using car ramps or just lay down and reach up under and try to get to everything? A lift seems like it would be the easiest, but also the most expensive. It is hard to justify spending $200 for something I would use once or twice a year. Anyone use ramps with success and ease? I would prefer not to remove the deck if possible, just scared I might muck something up taking it off or putting it back on.

And what about the bolts for the blades? This will be the first blade change, and wonder if they are a booger to get off? I have a breaker bar to use...anyone know the size off the top of their head?

Advice and thoughts are always appreciated!
********************

I have a 46" fab deck on my XT2 model--the blade bolts are 15/16" and on really tight on mine--I broke them loose with a big breaker bar and a block of wood wedged against the blade. Put liberal never-seize back on the threads--and it doesn't need to be that tight, as mine was...
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post #2635 of 2673 Old 04-22-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

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Originally Posted by soloz2 View Post
Wouldn't it be better to to just tap the hole instead of forcing the zerk in?

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If I had a tap which I am not sure yes that would be best. Its so enlarged my guess is a 5/16 threaded one will go right in like its tapped.

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post #2636 of 2673 Old 04-24-2019, 03:37 PM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

Some good advice on changing blades. I didn't even have a 15/16 socket (thought I did), so did pick up a 6 point one. I have an 18" breaker bar, just need to get some good ramps. To loosen the bolts, is it the typical "lefty loosey, righty tighty"? On a prior Husqvarna it was the opposite, had to turn to the right to loosen the bolts.
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post #2637 of 2673 Old 04-24-2019, 04:03 PM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

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Originally Posted by Hunter2 View Post
If I had a tap which I am not sure yes that would be best. Its so enlarged my guess is a 5/16 threaded one will go right in like its tapped.
If memory serves me right (hah) auto parts suppliers had a kit with a tap sized to fix bummed-up Zerks. They don't go bad so much as, if they're not used, or are painted over, it's very difficult to force them open (they are one-way valves) with a grease gun.
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post #2638 of 2673 Old 04-24-2019, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckT View Post
If memory serves me right (hah) auto parts suppliers had a kit with a tap sized to fix bummed-up Zerks. They don't go bad so much as, if they're not used, or are painted over, it's very difficult to force them open (they are one-way valves) with a grease gun.
Thanks, will have to keep that in mind when I try to replace again.

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post #2639 of 2673 Old 04-29-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

I dint put a new zerk grease fitting in when I got wheel off just re positioned the existing one.

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post #2640 of 2673 Old 05-02-2019, 09:34 PM
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Re: Cub Cadet XT series

Did first blade change on my XT2 GX54Fab today. Had to get a blade removal tool to hold blades in place to loosen the bolts. They put those suckers on tight. I used a breaker bar and nearly threw out my shoulder trying to get them loose.

I did notice today and the last time I cut that while cranking, the battery voltage on the hour meter would go down to between 10 and 11V. The first press of the push button shows the battery voltage, and it reads 12.5V. It dropped under 11V in the few seconds it took to start. Is that a sign that the battery is getting weaker (got the tractor in 2017, so it is to be expected) or could there possibly be an issue with the charging system? I know the longevity of lawn and garden batteries are not great, and I have not used a battery tender on it during the off-seasons. Hopefully it will make it through the rest of this season. Thoughts? Anyone experience a similar issue?
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