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2550 Wider Rear Tires

8K views 51 replies 7 participants last post by  Steve Urquell 
#1 ·
Hey all, I just picked up a cherry GT2550 and I am having slight traction issues on a hill while angling up it. Also, i feel the rear looks strange and needs a wider tire. Both for asthetics and functionality.
They are the stock 23x9.5's. Anyone know what I can stick back there and still use the stock wheels? I was almost thinking some ag tires, but not sure if a wider tire will fit the wheels....
 
#2 ·
You are one of many that have found turf tyres inadequate for the application.
Tyres for lawn & garden tractors are sized like this:
The first number is the height in inches of the tyre.
The second number is the width in inches of the tyre.
The third number is the size in inches of the rim.

Since you only want to change the tyre for more traction, the size of the rim will stay the same. The height and width of the tyre can change, just make sure to measure the clearance under your fender! You can increase the height by around 1-2 inches and still use the mower deck. You may have to level the deck, but that's easy.

Many here have had good success with the Bearcat, the Ocelot and the Ambush tyres. They are ATV style and work just fine. They really are not all that expensive.
Check Amazon, this is just one link:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=23X10X12+ATV+tires&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
 
#4 ·
A tire deforms as load is applied. The ground contact patch spreads out to match the pressure in the tire that supports the load. Given equal tire pressure and the same load, a wider tire will deform (squat) less, but it will have the same size contact patch.

Either reduce the tire pressure, add weight to the tractor, or get tires with a more aggressive tread.

Reducing tire pressure will also change the forward tilt of the mower deck. A 1 psi pressure change will change the axle ride height about 1/4".

My preferred method is to load the tires with liquid. The weight of the liquid is carried by the ground and does not change the contact patch significantly, thereby increasing the ground pressure over that applied by adding the same amount of weight to the tractor which will moderately increase the ground contact patch to compensate. Weight added to the tractor (wheel weights or suitcase weights) is carried by the air pressure in the tires.

An option for more aggressive tire tread is to add tire chains to the turfs. Several members have done this with success without damaging the lawn.
 
#5 ·
I put 3000 series wheels and tires on my GT2544. I know you would like to keep the stock wheels... But I'm pretty sure the 3000 series wheels/tires is what you are looking for.
 

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#6 · (Edited)
Congrats on the tractor. I love all the shaft drive Cubs.

If you want "the look" then this is the way to go. 3000 series wheels are 8" wide and the 2550 wheels are 7". Wider tires in the 7" rims just get taller and rounder on the edges.

The pic below shows my 24x10-12 Ocelot ATV tires unmounted next to mounted on 7" rims you can see how the narrow rim pushes it up. These tires do not spin and I run them on big hills and pull a box blade and 200+lb gravel drag. No ballast at all.

I have 7" wide rims on both of my tractors but would like to have 8" to flatten the tread out. I don't really need to do that but it would make them look better.
 

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#9 ·
What is the main use for the tractor? If you are doing garden work go with the AG’s, if you are hauling through the rough, the ATV type tires would be the best. But if the primary use is mowing and the turf tires don’t have enough traction, you may want to consider HDAP’s. In the picture below is the All-Trail that I use on my GT3235 and it is a great all-around tire – much more traction than a turf but they do not tear up the lawn like an ATV tire can. A bunch of guys here love them and Deere fits very similar tires as OEM on many of their 500 & 700 series tractors. Of course, if the tractor is primarily for fun, there is no wrong answer – whatever looks good to you is the way to go!

How big can you go on a GT2500 series? I have used 24X12-12 Turf Masters on 3000 series wheels (9” wide, I think) on the GT2550 below. I switched to them a few years ago, to correct the horrible way the lawn looked with the standard 9.50’s. These are heavy tractors (all are over 800 lbs.) and the stock tires are very heavily loaded. The 12” tread lowers the ground pressure and gives a really good-looking cut – a half-way decent stripe even. However, for anyone already having traction problems, this is not the set up you want, as the reduced loading makes them VERY easy to spin – you have to drive them carefully in situations where one side is unloaded. And they are not a bolt on, mods are required.

Your tractor looks really great from the back, like new! Give us the story on how your scored it, and MORE PICTURES please!
 

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#10 ·
.... they do not tear up the lawn like an ATV tire can.
I feel this is a common misconception with ATV tires. My ATVs do not tear up the grass. They just flat out don't spin at all. The only time I've spun them was going way too fast around a tree on a hill and the inside tire chunked out a piece of turf. I slowed down around that tree and haven't torn up grass since. Probably have mowed ~70hrs on the ATVs and I go fast and turn sharp on the XT3. Mow 2.5 acres/week.

I think the compound is soft enough to where they grip like glue.
 
#11 ·
Soil conditions play a major part also in whether tyres disturb it. My soil here in northern Florida has a high sand content that is completely natural, that means none has been added. But it also means that the roots of the grass and other don't go down as far as they would as in the northern areas of the country. Rainfall drains off quickly which is nice since we normally get over 60 inches of rain a year.
The turf tyres I had originally, spun and delivered poor traction in the flat sections and especially on turns and chewed up the grass horribly. Also have a small section where the ground is almost perpetually damp and with the turf tyres, very easy to get stuck, even though it is level.
I first changed the rear tyres to an ATV style chevron lug and my traction problems went completely away. No more getting stuck, no more chewing up the grass and could mow the damp section without any problems. My newest used tractor has ATV modified chevron on the front tyres and the Ambush ATV tyres on the rear. There is no spinning of the rear tyres and the turns with the front tyres are much sharper.
I'll never use the turf tyres again on any mower.
 
#14 ·
I'm up in Wisconsin. My soil is pretty firm and mostly farm field quality topsoil. Ive got some pretty steep hills where I am crossing the hills, going up/down them at angles, and going straight up/down them.

The state I was born in, forgetaboudit, know it quite well. But just like the turf tyres, ain't never goin back.
Take a good look at what is available for you and be sure to let us all know what you decide. The pictures are nice!
 
#16 ·
Hi Forgetaboutit – You did great, that is a really nice unit and a super buy. The 2500’s have some “interesting” features, but all in all are very tough and capable tractors. You have got a workhorse for years to come – mine has over 800 hours on it and is going strong, runs & drives almost like new (with the exception of one recent fail that I will post on later).

The rear hinged hoods broke left n’ right and Cub went through three revised hoods, none of which fixed the problem (I had two replaced under warranty myself before I made mine into a front hinged hood). The two gas struts put too much pressure on attaching points that were too close and the mounting stands broke right off the hood. They finally came up with a metal bracket to better distribute the force that did the job. The retrofit bracket bolted to the hood attaching frame and then further forward through the hood louvers. Does your hood have it?

Also, where are you in WI? I am just north of Fond du Lac.
 
#18 ·
Greetings – The hood fix kit (the last one, I think) had a metal extension that was attached to the bracket in your picture and extended forward to the front of the louvers. It was attached there by a U-bolt through a louver, the U-bolt being hidden by the standard louver cover. A bit crude, but it worked as far as I know – I only saw a picture of it once.

I was understating with the word interesting, some would put it a bit differently. The first one is the gas strut hood of course, a bad idea (probably came from the marketing department) that was also poorly executed – resulting in the ongoing wave of broken hoods. The other issue seen too often is a crack around one or both of the front seat mounts – they rely on the fender pan only for support and it’s not enough (after welding mine twice, I replaced the pan and added support). Those are the major problem areas I am aware of, along with the forward/reverse shaft mount issue I just found. I also prefer the shielded cooling air intake and the heftier dash supports of both the earlier and later models in the series, but those are lesser issues. One thing that the GT2500’s did have was a pretty good attachment line-up. All in all, it has still been as great tractor for me and one I intend to hang on to.

Yes, West Bend is right down the road from me, I do get through there from time to time. Do you use the local Cub dealer? It would be a bit far for you (probably an hour or so away) but I do a lot of business with Madson’s in St. Nazianz – they are great. Let me know if I can help with something, cheers!
 
#21 ·
You'll have to do some measuring. Assume 2" more tire to the inside and 1/2" taller/closer to the deck. I went to 24x10-12" ATV tires on my XT3 after careful measuring and came out good but close. Deck all the way up is closest.
 

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#23 ·
You do need to take measurements before you actually spend your money on any significantly larger tires or wheels. Also, even if you decide to stay with the original size tire and wheel some manufacturers actually make their tires slightly larger or smaller than a tire of the same advertised size from a different company. Whatever tire and wheel you decide to use you might want to post it and see if members here have knowledge of that particular tire and if it runs larger or smaller. If the tire of interest runs smaller you could consider moving up a size or two to actually get the size tire you desire. Just something to think about.
 
#28 ·
There ya go...

Got a picture of the wheel... There were a couple of different styles.
 
#32 ·
Was a 4 hr round trip drive to get them.... But my family went with and we took the scenic route and enjoyed the small towns and backroads of WI.

Ill be getting a pair of ocelots this winter i think. I'll have to level the deck I'm sure with the additional height in the rear. Anyone have a how to on that?
 
#33 ·
Howdy – Where did you go to get the tires?

Regarding leveling the deck, do you have the owners manual? It is described in there and it's not difficult. Just don't go by their drawing of the nuts on the front hanger bracket, as it is wrong. One nut needs to be on each side of the bracket. Also, get a deck leveling gauge, it’s the only way to go, around $10 on eBay for an Oregon, Stens or Deere version. Cheers!
 
#34 ·
I went up to Clintonville. Some old farmer had a couple things for tractors to sell. Sucked it rained all **** day ?. Still took 45 N through Fondy, around Bago, and up through Oshkosh. I was still a decent drive, we don't take that way ever to go up north.
I dont have a manual... Ill look into a gauge and see what I cat figure out with leveling it
 
#35 ·
To download a manual on the Cub Cadet website, go to parts and then select manuals and put in the model number from the white serial number tag on your tractor frame. You can download it and then print it off. Cub Cadet does a real nice job on the newer stuff with owners manuals; between my two tractors every manual & attachment manual has been available except the fan assist bagger on the GT3235.

Speaking of Clintonville, did you notice the Simplicity dealer on 45 between there and New London? I stopped there once to look around and it was the biggest mess I have ever seen, inside n' out. New Simplicity tractors years old still in crates and more junked tractors than I have ever seen anywhere - none of which ever seem to move. I tried to buy a Cub from him once and his price was ridiculous. I know why he never sells any of them.
 
#37 ·
Nice looking tires, good find. I also would like to see additional pictures of the tires and wheels on your mower. If you still have a problem on the hills you can always load the tires with fluids or add weights but hopefully the new larger tires will get you up and down the hills without difficulties. Good luck with your new mower.
 
#39 ·
Yep. I bought a set from Chapmoto for my XT3. Made a thread about it here: https://www.mytractorforum.com/19-cub-cadet-forum/1298865-put-atv-v-bar-tires-my-xt3.html

A little later I bought a set off FB marketplace that were labeled "Polaris". They are the exact same tire and I mounted them on my 3240. They grip like there's no tomorrow. Here's a pic of me trenching my drainage ditch 1ft deep in the mud. You will notice the right tire caked up heavily. That's because I didn't need to lock in the diff lock as that 1 tire was plenty to grip and cut a foot deep trench in the mud with my middle buster.

The other pic is of my 200lb gravel drag which my XT3 will pull uphill with 200lbs of gravel piled up on it with NO diff lock. These tires are amazing on these tractors. You will not be disappointed and will probably need no ballast to do anything you want after mounting these. I use no ballast, filled tires etc. The grip of the tires is all I need.
 

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#40 ·
Heres more pics. So when i replaced the valve stem (dang thing started leaking), I must've made the dry rotted tire worse.... It now wont hold air very long. So I'll be buying the ocelots before spring like I planned....
But here are more pics of the bigger ones on the machine.
Last pic is where I found all the air leaks.... ???
 

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#42 ·
So I got the meat hooks on her! I went to level the deck and side to side is spot on.
But..... Front to back is about 2-1/2" difference.... I cant raise the front anymore at the u shaped bracket that hooks into the front of the deck as per the manual. Also, I cant raise the deck any further without the belt tensioner hitting the lugs of the tires. (See pics)
I think these tires being taller is the culprit. Does anyone have any ideas how I can bring it back into spec (1/8"-1/4" difference)?

I've added pics of the tires, and the threads on the front side of the U-bolt thing.
 

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#43 ·
So I got the meat hooks on her! I went to level the deck and side to side is spot on.
But..... Front to back is about 2-1/2" difference.... I cant raise the front anymore at the u shaped bracket that hooks into the front of the deck as per the manual. Also, I cant raise the deck any further without the belt tensioner hitting the lugs of the tires. (See pics)
I think these tires being taller is the culprit. Does anyone have any ideas how I can bring it back into spec (1/8"-1/4" difference)?l2501

I've added pics of the tires, and the threads on the front side of the U-bolt thing.
Oh yeah! Looks mean. I just ordered 18x6.5-8s and mounted on the front of mine to avoid the deck level issue. Check my thread I linked for the ebay url. I think they were <$50 for the pair delivered and let me drive over crap the 16s wouldnt touch.

ETA: I think you need to let some air out. How much you running?
 

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#44 ·
Steve, Forget, those are a couple nice looking mowers and I really like those rear tires? Do either of you have much trouble with those rear tires tearing up the sod?
Steve, did you replace your front tires with more turf savers tread design or did you go a little more aggressive on the fronts as well?
 
#46 ·
Thanks. The only time I tore out sod was when I first put on the ATVs. I was flying fast around a tree on a slope that I had to go fast around as my turfs would spin out. As the tree side tire unloaded it spun and ripped a hunk out.

I stopped and slowly went around it and realized I didn't need to go fast anymore as the ATVs don't spin. Since then I haven't spun a tire and I dont go particularly slow around my trees.

The fronts on my XT3 are regular turf tread and are 18x6.5-8s. The 3240 has 18x8.5-8 golf cart tires that the cart shop gave me for free. They have tons of take offs and give them away.
 

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#45 ·
The rear ATV style tyres don't spin on the ground so they don't chew it up like the turf tyres do. They are also constructed of a softer compound. I have a modified chevron style ATV tyre on the front and Ambush style ATV on the rear. When the powered wheel is spinning because of poor traction, that's when you chew up the grass.
 
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