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post #16 of 42 Old 04-24-2019, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

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Originally Posted by TUDOR View Post
That depends on how slight the misalignment is actually. Ideally, there should be none, but in reality there is some wiggle room depending on how far apart the pulleys are located. Figure about an eighth inch per foot of shaft to shaft displacement and you should be good.

Note that the belts for LT mowers are operated at considerably more offset, but they are usually a lot easier to change when worn.
Ok...I'll maybe re-visit my work and see if perhaps I missed something. The misalignment is not much ("not much" being a relative term) but from the rear of the tractor, looking down the length of the belt, it is definitely not perfectly aligned. Hmmm...as I think of it, the mounting bracket-slash-belt guards that were used on the two different tractors were not identical. But one had some protrusion on it that interfered with the replacement pulley.

SIGH.

Oh well; back to it.

Thanks for the all help, TUDOR.
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post #17 of 42 Old 04-24-2019, 06:48 PM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

I once had a wheel alignment tech tell me there was lots of play in the ball joints of my van and they needed changing. I told him that "lots" was not a spec. What is the actual number? They were in spec when he got out the dial indicator. He now manages the shop and reminded me of that conversation a couple of weeks ago. Now I know why I get service there that is above and beyond.

The eyeball is a good measuring tool for rough alignment, but a straightedge is better for precision.

Bob

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Last edited by TUDOR; 04-24-2019 at 06:55 PM.
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post #18 of 42 Old 04-24-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

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I once had a wheel alignment tech tell me there was lots of play in the ball joints of my van and they needed changing. I told him that "lots" was not a spec. What is the actual number? They were in spec when he got out the dial indicator. He now manages the shop and reminded me of that conversation a couple of weeks ago. Now I know why I get some things done for free.
He must've learned something, considering you still do take your stuff there.

Quote:
The eyeball is a good measuring tool for rough alignment, but a straightedge is better for precision.
For sure, but with bad eyes?!

Well, I took the tractor back out, and...yeah...no better.

I do find curious a few things:

1) Why is there no slippage in 1st gear?

2) Like I said in my OP, when going uphill, the tractor just stops: no engine bogging down, no wheel spin, no "WHIRRR!!!" or otherwise the smell of belt melting on the pulley. But when going in reverse uphill, the wheels spin, so then I stop. (And that was in 3rd gear, not 2nd and not 1st.) Why the difference?

3) If I very gradually release the foot brake so that the belt very gradually engages, I get a bit more "grip." Sometimes the "grip" is maintained, and I move. Other times, not so much.

So, the engine is NOT getting bogged down, the wheels are NOT slipping on the turf and there is NOT any smell of burnt/singed belt.

I'm so confused as to where the slipping is occurring. Would a belt replacement be the next thing to try? Maybe a pulley (or two)?
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post #19 of 42 Old 04-24-2019, 08:49 PM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

Things that make a tractor go:

- Shaft keys and key slots

- Pulleys (stamped steel pulleys have two parts, the hub and the pulley itself)

- V-belts

- Gears

- Tires secured to rims.

First gear takes less engine torque to get the tractor moving than any of the other gears. There is less strain on all parts of the drive train.

With the sole exception of a failed pulley weld, your symptoms indicate a failure in a rubber component. Is a wheel spinning without turning the tire? Possible cause is low tire pressure.

I'm running out of ideas.

Bob

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post #20 of 42 Old 04-24-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

You're running out of ideas? Now I'm ion trouble...lol.

Anyway, to answer your question, the tire AND the wheel are spinning, usually in spots with no grass...just dirt.

All I can think of is the belt, especially as it appears that all the "heavy" components are working as they should (pulleys, gears, tires, etc.) Well, belts are relatively inexpensive (except at the local dealer) so it seems to be the least-expensive option to try.

Thanks.
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post #21 of 42 Old 04-25-2019, 08:48 AM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

Following this. Seems like OP you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Looks to me like you simply have worn belt(s). Had the same thing happen many times on my old B10. New belt good as new. Check EBay for belts high quality heavy duty belts can be had there for cheap
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post #22 of 42 Old 04-25-2019, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

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Following this. Seems like OP you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Looks to me like you simply have worn belt(s). Had the same thing happen many times on my old B10. New belt good as new. Check EBay for belts high quality heavy duty belts can be had there for cheap
Well, it wouldn't be the first time. And it is the least-expensive option, it seems. So, yeah...off belt-shopping I go.

Thanks.
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post #23 of 42 Old 04-25-2019, 04:30 PM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

Go to PartsTree.com and find the number. There are sellers on EBay that sell very high quality belts but you just need to know the OEM number to X Reference
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post #24 of 42 Old 04-30-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

The latest:

Swapping the lower-front pulley did not help.

Putting on a new belt did not help.

I think I'm going to put the other pulley back on and see what happens.

A few things to note:

First, when I move the directional lever to "Reverse" (and just a bit of actually going in reverse) and then back to "Forward," I get a very temporary but noticeable increase in "grip." The tractor almost lurches forward just a bit. But again, this is not sustained. Second, it seems to me that if the engine simply doesn't have the guts to make it up the hill in second gear, the tractor would never make it up the hill in second gear. But yet, it does...at least for a while. But is it possible/probable that the engine loses...something...over time that prevents it from moving the tractor up the hill as time goes on? Wouldn't the engine bog down or something? As it is, the engine sounds/feels identical regardless of the tractor making it up the hill in second or not. Third, is it worth considering that there may simply not be enough weight on the rear of the tractor? I'm not a big guy, and maybe more weight (100 lbs?) would help.

That's it for now. Again, open to all comers on this topic.

Thank you.
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post #25 of 42 Old 04-30-2019, 12:10 PM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

One of 3 things is happening if your machine won’t climb that hill: engine stalled/died, your wheels are spinning, or driveline slippage (I.e. belt slipping or sheared key on a drive pulley).
You said the engine doesn’t stall out, ruling out #1. Traction should be easy to check. We did have a fellow whose rim was actually spinning within the tire on a new tractor a couple weeks back. Tire had traction, no transmission slippage, no broken keys on pulleys, no belt slippage or anything... that was a new one by me.
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post #26 of 42 Old 04-30-2019, 03:48 PM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

It might help if you had a video of the problem. It's hard to assess just from a description.

Adding weight is only a solution if any slippage is occurring. That variable needs to be absolutely ruled in or out. If nothing is actually slipping, then the problem is either in the transmission or the engine. What you might think is normal engine sound others might describe as a problem.

Quote:
Second, it seems to me that if the engine simply doesn't have the guts to make it up the hill in second gear, the tractor would never make it up the hill in second gear. But yet, it does...at least for a while.
That indicates to me an engine problem. It could be in the ignition, as my power problem was, or it could be in the governor (if it has one )/ fuel problem. You also may want to check the engine compression.
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post #27 of 42 Old 04-30-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

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Adding weight is only a solution if any slippage is occurring. That variable needs to be absolutely ruled in or out.
When I go up the hill backwards, then my tires slip on the yard. And I have the gouge marks to prove it. This is not what happens when going forward. When going forward, the tractor just stops, or inches (literally) along at a snail's pace. So I would say that, by all accounts, the tires are not slipping.

Quote:
If nothing is actually slipping, then the problem is either in the transmission or the engine. What you might think is normal engine sound others might describe as a problem.
I'm certainly no expert on tractor engines, but I will say that this engine, in my opinion, is running about as well as any engine could, much less one that's over 45 years old. There is no smoke, she starts pretty much every time and sounds/feels smooth. I dare say it runs better than my truck. However, as I stated, I'm no expert on tractor engines.

Quote:
That indicates to me an engine problem.
Well, ok. I'm in no position to disagree, other than to state what I already have.

Quote:
It could be in the ignition, as my power problem was, or it could be in the governor (if it has one )/ fuel problem.
Some time back (as in two-or-so years ago) there was an issue with, as I recall, the jet on the carburetor. I got online to a help site and a guy sent me a manual for that (or similar) carb and walked me through things to look for. I ended up fixing it myself (with his help, of course) and it's run without (obvious) issue since. So again, I'm just having a hard time seeing the issue as being engine-related. But again....

Quote:
You also may want to check the engine compression.
Ugh. I'll look elsewhere first...lol.

I decided that all of this was good cause for me to actually go through the operator's manual for the tractor (a first, yes). The first thing that caught my eye was transmission fluid. I checked the level and it was "LOW," as in "I couldn't see any." I figured that if I couldn't see it and that whomever had the tractor before I did probably never changed the oil, it was time to change it. So I drained it, and actually got a lot more than I thought I would. It also had that two-color thing going for it...you know...a little milky white streak in it, and pretty much NO (apparent) viscosity.

In looking at what oil to put into it, some 45 years later, the manual said "SAE 90." Well, little did I know that there (apparently) is no such thing as "SAE 90" oil anymore. So I asked at the store what would be the replacement oil, and was told "80W-90" was the closest I was going to get to "SAE 90." So, I bought it.

But I would dearly love to get input from others on this topic: did I pick the correct oil? (And, is it likely to make any difference in my "no-go" situation?)

Anyway, that's where it stands now. (Fun, fun...fun!)

Thanks.
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post #28 of 42 Old 04-30-2019, 09:19 PM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

80w90 should be fine.
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post #29 of 42 Old 04-30-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

Thanks.
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post #30 of 42 Old 05-01-2019, 12:02 AM
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Re: Uphill in 2nd; 30 Minutes Later, Not So Much

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But I would dearly love to get input from others on this topic: did I pick the correct oil? (And, is it likely to make any difference in my "no-go" situation?)
That oil weight is fine. If low oil was the problem (and it may be part of it by the description of it coming out), I would expect it to affect movement in all gears. Sounds like reverse / others are working fine.
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