Re: ATF and Acetone mixture ratio?
I've used about every available penetrating oil over the years--ones we sold at parts stores ranged from Liquid Wrench,WD-40,Cyclo "Break Away",LPS,CRC 5-56, "Rust Buster" and several other "lesser known" brands,and some that came in liquid form in a squirt bottle that was castor oil based..
The Liquid Wrench I liked and used most often was a newer formula that had teflon added..that stuff got things to unscrew that otherwise would have twisted off..
I have good luck with WD-40 too,despite those who insist it sucks as a penetrant and was invented to displace moisture,my friend who runs an auto repair shop has tried everything too,but likes WD-40 the best..
I only tried P-B Blaster once and was not impressed,and it was not cheap!..in my opinion diesel fuel & gas mixed 50-50 worked as well or better,and I now use mostly used ATF I get from my friends drain bucket when he does a transmission swap or filter change,with some other solvent added to thin it out some..I've used acetone,laquer thinner,mineral spirits,gasoline,turpentine ,and liquid carb cleaner ,all seem to work equally well..
I have tried used hydraulic oil and power steering fluid,those both seemed to work better as far as reducing the amount of torque to unscrew a rusted bolt or nut..
Marvel Mystery oil remains a favorite of mine too,especially for freeing up stuck rings and valves,and un-seizing old engines that are "stuck" after sitting too long..a good soaking with MMO usually gets them to turn again..
I often wonder if the penetrant really does anything though--when you get a rusted bolt off you have doused with whatever your choice of it was,usually you'll see the threads are bone dry still and it may have just been the heat you applied ,then cooling the part off with the oil,that actually broke it free...
My torches are the best "rust buster",its rare you cant get a stuck fastener out with some heating and cooling cycles--but many places a torch cant be used,like on gas tank strap bolts..