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post #271 of 277 Old 07-22-2019, 12:31 PM
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Re: Beefing up my air capacity?

If he had a small trailer with tandem wheels he could flip the trailer upside down and lay the tank in between the pairs of tires--then it could be rolled pretty easily--kind of the same idea one of those rock tumblers are set up to roll the drum full of stones to be polished...if you wanted to get fancy a long v-belt to an electric motor could be used to roll it..probably have to slow it down with gear reduction though...

A late friend of mine who was a well driller had a trailer like that for his ATV,he used to flip it upside down and he'd put large well casing pipes in between the pairs of tires ,so he could weld them together--he'd have his son turn the pipe slowly as he ran the beads..it worked pretty slick..


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post #272 of 277 Old 07-22-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Beefing up my air capacity?

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Originally Posted by Tractor-Holic View Post
If he had a small trailer with tandem wheels he could flip the trailer upside down and lay the tank in between the pairs of tires--then it could be rolled pretty easily--kind of the same idea one of those rock tumblers are set up to roll the drum full of stones to be polished...

If I had a tandem trailer, Iíd be more likely to use it for bringing home more tractors! Somehow, I canít see that one getting approval from LTGal!


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post #273 of 277 Old 07-22-2019, 11:31 PM
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Re: Beefing up my air capacity?

Make a tumbler. Take the seat pan off of Bror, the front axle off of Johnny Crash, fab a bracket to secure the front axle to the back of Bror, jack up the rear end of Bror and set the tank on the 4 tires.

Start the engine and engage the transmission. Set the throttle for the desired tank rpm.

Bob

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post #274 of 277 Old 07-23-2019, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Beefing up my air capacity?

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Originally Posted by TUDOR View Post
Make a tumbler. Take the seat pan off of Bror, the front axle off of Johnny Crash, fab a bracket to secure the front axle to the back of Bror, jack up the rear end of Bror and set the tank on the 4 tires.

Start the engine and engage the transmission. Set the throttle for the desired tank rpm.
I think I'll have to get you to draw me a picture of THAT one, Tudor! I just can't see it in my mind! Would this involve turning things upside down too?LOL!

Actually.... If the 12" rims from my trailer (with the tires on them) would fit over the ends of this tank, the tires would probably give me enough clearance to do the rolling around in the yard without endangering the pipe stubs! I'd just have to get the tank laid down on something to support it far enough off the ground that I could set a rim on either end, then I run 2 12' winch straps through the "spokes" of the rims (one on either side of the tank) and cinch them up to hold the rims on... Then I find a really tall hill!

Of course, if those rims do fit is the big question. I went out to measure tonight, and its possible that the tank is 13" in diameter... I was in too much of a rush to take the circumference and do math tho, so I'm not totally sure. I can always just get the rims back from my neighbour the electrician (he took them because he thought they would fit his boat trailer, but its a 4 bolt and my rims are 5 bolt) and try popping one onto the top of the tank as it is currently standing in my garage. If they do fit, then what I do is 1) leave the tire on one, take the tire off another, 2) cut a notch in the edge of the rim without the tire on it that would be big enough to pass a piece of aircraft cable through, 3) bolt the two rims together with 1/2" bolts of an appropriate length, 4) get the right fittings to fit my pull-activated drain valve mounted into the bung on the end of the tank and mount it, 5) sneak some winch straps (one on each side, or possibly one 12' one through the spokes of the top rim 6) set the tank into the rim without a tire on it, so the tire is at the bottom of the tank, and run the pull cord for the drain valve through the notch, 7) hook the hooks from each end of the winch strap onto the rim of the former tank stand and cinch it up to hold the tank securely onto the rim.

This is all assuming the rims fit, and that I don't find this tank has any pinhole leaks in it.

In other news, the last rim went back into the electrolysis tank tonight after I pressure washed as much loose goo off the back side of it as I could. We should find out by tomorrow night how well that's cleaned up the rusty backside of this rim, then I can blast it and we'll be ready to prime.
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post #275 of 277 Old 07-23-2019, 05:11 PM
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Re: Beefing up my air capacity?

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I think I'll have to get you to draw me a picture of THAT one, Tudor! I just can't see it in my mind! Would this involve turning things upside down too?LOL!
Nope! Just jack it high enough that the tires spin in air.

Parts needed are only 4 pieces of angle of a suitable length, 6 bolts, and 2 U-bolts. One bolt for each upper and lower angle at the back of the tractor side frame, and one bolt to connect the two angles for each side of the brackets. Rest the front axle on the top side of the triangle created and secure it with the U-bolts.

A total of 12 holes need to be drilled, one at each end of each angle, and two for the U-bolts on each of the top angles. This can be cut in half by clamping the angle legs together and drilling two holes at the same time. Use existing holes in the tractor's frame for attaching the angles.

Can't get much simpler than a triangle. When done, unbolt it from the tractor and fold the triangle legs together for storage, or leave it on and add a piece of plywood for a work platform, if the seat pan will clear it.

Tools needed; a skill saw, or a radial arm saw, with a 9/32" abrasive cut-off wheel, and a drill with suitable bits for the hole size required.

The first project that I built with my brand new radial arm saw was the stand to put it on. Abrasive wheel for cutting the 2x2x3/16 angle to length, and drill chuck on the back of the saw's motor for drilling the holes. I also needed a pair of wrenches to tighten the bolts. Four tools needed for the project, a tape measure, a radial arm saw and a pair of adjustable wrenches. No torch and no welder available at the time.

I still use the radial arm saw for cutting angles and square tubing to length 46 years later. It's more expensive to buy than a chop saw, but it's oh so much more versatile.

Bob

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Last edited by TUDOR; 07-23-2019 at 05:46 PM.
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post #276 of 277 Old 07-24-2019, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Beefing up my air capacity?

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Originally Posted by TUDOR View Post
Nope! Just jack it high enough that the tires spin in air.

Parts needed are only 4 pieces of angle of a suitable length, 6 bolts, and 2 U-bolts. One bolt for each upper and lower angle at the back of the tractor side frame, and one bolt to connect the two angles for each side of the brackets. Rest the front axle on the top side of the triangle created and secure it with the U-bolts.

A total of 12 holes need to be drilled, one at each end of each angle, and two for the U-bolts on each of the top angles. This can be cut in half by clamping the angle legs together and drilling two holes at the same time. Use existing holes in the tractor's frame for attaching the angles.

Can't get much simpler than a triangle. When done, unbolt it from the tractor and fold the triangle legs together for storage, or leave it on and add a piece of plywood for a work platform, if the seat pan will clear it.

Tools needed; a skill saw, or a radial arm saw, with a 9/32" abrasive cut-off wheel, and a drill with suitable bits for the hole size required.

The first project that I built with my brand new radial arm saw was the stand to put it on. Abrasive wheel for cutting the 2x2x3/16 angle to length, and drill chuck on the back of the saw's motor for drilling the holes. I also needed a pair of wrenches to tighten the bolts. Four tools needed for the project, a tape measure, a radial arm saw and a pair of adjustable wrenches. No torch and no welder available at the time.

I still use the radial arm saw for cutting angles and square tubing to length 46 years later. It's more expensive to buy than a chop saw, but it's oh so much more versatile.
Still not able to picture how this would all work, but I was never very good at geometry... However, if it will get me a Radial Arm saw, I'm willing to entertain it as an idea... My dad says he has a spare somewhere in one of his workshops, but it hasn't materialized yet. For years and years as a youngster, I always thought he was saying "Radio Alarm Saw", and (once again) I just could not picture what that would look like!

Edit- Oh... okay, I THINK I just figured out why I was having so much trouble picturing how this would work... You missed a step... I'd also need to take off Bror's fenders!

Think I might have a slightly less labour intensive idea... I could, instead of taking apart Johnny Crash's front end, take my spare front axle, put my spare rims on it, then bolt it to the back of Johnny Crash with the aforementioned frame and use Johnny Crash as the tumbler (after I take his fenders off)... Of course, this would mean actually finishing Johnny, so I'd put getting this underway somewhere in the geological near future . One question, tho. How would you suggest I keep the spindles on the front axle from turning and ditching the tank?

Last edited by littletractorguy; 07-24-2019 at 09:51 PM.
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post #277 of 277 Old 07-25-2019, 02:50 AM
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Re: Beefing up my air capacity?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TUDOR View Post
Make a tumbler. Take the seat pan off of Bror, the front axle off of Johnny Crash, fab a bracket to secure the front axle to the back of Bror, jack up the rear end of Bror and set the tank on the 4 tires.

Start the engine and engage the transmission. Set the throttle for the desired tank rpm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by littletractorguy View Post
Still not able to picture how this would all work, but I was never very good at geometry... However, if it will get me a Radial Arm saw, I'm willing to entertain it as an idea... My dad says he has a spare somewhere in one of his workshops, but it hasn't materialized yet. For years and years as a youngster, I always thought he was saying "Radio Alarm Saw", and (once again) I just could not picture what that would look like!

Edit- Oh... okay, I THINK I just figured out why I was having so much trouble picturing how this would work... You missed a step... I'd also need to take off Bror's fenders!

Think I might have a slightly less labour intensive idea... I could, instead of taking apart Johnny Crash's front end, take my spare front axle, put my spare rims on it, then bolt it to the back of Johnny Crash with the aforementioned frame and use Johnny Crash as the tumbler (after I take his fenders off)... Of course, this would mean actually finishing Johnny, so I'd put getting this underway somewhere in the geological near future . One question, tho. How would you suggest I keep the spindles on the front axle from turning and ditching the tank?
Sorry, didn't realize that Bror's fenders were separate from the seat pan.

Clamp a piece of 2x4 to the axle and the tie rod to the 2x4. As long as the alignment is slightly toed in, the tires will probably stay pointed straight ahead anyway.

Way back in ancient times when Tyranosaurus Rex ruled the earth and I was a young lad, cars rode on bias ply tires that would follow the road, even around highway curves, without driver input to the steering wheel, if the alignment was correct and tire pressures were even. The game was to see how many miles could be driven before the "imperfections" in the road surface forced the driver to make a correction to keep the car in its lane.

Keep in mind that I live in Northern Ontario where straight stretches of highway longer than a mile are a rarity, unlike Saskatchewan where a curve in the road is cause for panic.

The game doesn't play well with radial tires, even on new asphalt. The danged things are squirrely.

Bob

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MF1655 w/ FEL, MF1655, MF12H, MF8H, MF7H
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Last edited by TUDOR; 07-25-2019 at 02:58 AM.
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