Since this forum has been helpful to me. I want to give back a little. I went through the motions of replacing my drive plate on my Honda 3813 today and took some photos of the job. I hope this helps someone in the future that does not have the service manual.
All included parts. Please disregard the junk on the workbench
Note the position of the drive plate. It is not a symmetrical part.
All parts in the correct order. Now time to compress the spring.
You don't need to waste your money with the "special tool" as the service manual states. Good ol c-clamp and a vice will do the trick. Just like when I was a kid using a butter knife for a screw driver.
Don't forget the springs.
Snap the clutch on the transaxle, get the driveshaft ready.
All done.
Now its time to sit back relax and mow the lawn right? Wrong. Turns out the problem was a blown trans. I hope this post will assist someone else though.
have you thought about pulling that transmission down, just to see what might be the culprit? - looking at the parts schematic, there is a "selector" but it doesn't look like any selector fork i've seen - more like a tuning fork -
a tip, while you've got it down like that - that three lumped "adaptor" at the end of the drive shaft - in the center of it is a bolt that holds that to the shaft - inside that shell is basically a rubber coated coupling to take the shock out of the drive line -
you might want to pull that from the drive shaft and soak the rubber in armour-all to rejuvenate the rubber
there's also one at the front end, where the drive shaft connects to the flywheel - i noticed my drive shaft had a "shimmy" to it, was wobbling between 1/8 - 1/4" - when i pulled the engine back in april to chg the timing belt i pulled the front damper off the driveshaft and found the rubber lugs cracked and a couple of the lugs with chunks of rubber missing - luckily i found one on egay for $5, the **** things, iirc, are $60 or $70 discounted at boats.net
i haven't had the rear seat pan off to do the same to the rear one - hopefully i'll remember when i pull it off this fall, for annual cleanup / lubing, armour-alling all the rubber grommets, hoses, etc
I found the rubber missing on my tractor's drive lugs so I found some epdm rubber roofing sheeting, cut a square that would fit nicely in the lug cup,generously squirted silicone grease over the lug portion and slapped it together. It has worked for several years now.
Hi Jeff, I see you're new to the Forum, :Welcome1: Glad to have you here.
This is an old thread with a different title than what you want. May I suggest you click on the "new thread" box and start a new one yourself. It is near the upper left on the page where all the Honda topics are listed.
Make the title a direct reference to what you want to catch peoples' attention. Then explain in detail in the subject box. If you can include a picture or a page from the parts book, it will help as well to get you what you want.
I know this is an old post but I just finished this job on my ht3813. It's comparable to replacing a bearing on a drive wheel of a car (pain in the butt!). I used a vice with a few large nuts in front to allow me to compress and decompress the sprung clutch. I also just used an air chisel instead of the actual bearing nut socket to remove the bearing nut - it made a few nicks in the nut collar but nothing that the grinder couldn't fix. The most time consuming part for me was removing & re-installing all of the trim pieces since it seemed like every **** size of fastener was used without any uniformity. 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 17mm, Philips, etc. I was continuously changing sockets which ate up TONS of time.
Lots of fastener sizes yes, but did you notice how once cracked loose all those 30 yr old fasteners just spun out with your fingers. That's Honda quality for you.
This spring I had to replace the pto clutch brake on my '87 3810. The bearings were still fine for now. The original brake had lost 2 of the 3 pads for some reason and the replacement was brand new, so I had to sand it thinner to get the clearances to match with the drive disc. It got a new 108" pto to deck drive belt as well.
This lead to the four bolts (two on each side) where your heel rests on the PTO shield rusting and eventually snapping off. The rest of the bolts were clean and had good threads.... but the odd sizes were really strange to me.
You'd think that a company like Honda, even in the 80's, would realize the economies of scale. Most of the trim and body panels that I removed could have easily used the same size fastener which would have allowed Honda to purchase greater quantities of bolts, and use less tooling when reaming out holes.
Good info. Thanks for sharing. I was search for a 3813 thread to dovetail the following experience. Sorry for not starting a new topic, but there appears to be a glitch on the forum which will only allow me to tag onto an existing thread. With that, I've had a Honda 3813 for about 9 years which has run and cut flawlessly. Last week I had a weird occurance. While mowing, all of the sudden the engine began to Rev at a very high rpm...I mean red line high. I immediately disengaged the pto and throttled-down but could not overcome the racing of the engine. So I shut her down. I checked the fluids and topped off both the coolant and oil.
After letting it cool, I started her back up and she seemed to run just fine. I mowed for another 10 minutes, just to finish what I started, but it began to sound like a heavier load than normal, as if I was cutting high grass- which I was not. So, I decided to disengage the pto to give her a break from mowing and as soon as I did, the whole motor seems to lock up and stall immdiately. I pressumed at the time that the pto clutch blew up or exploded. I tried to start it a few hrs later, and the starter just clicked. Tried to turn the fan by hand- locked up.
The next day, I removed the drive belt for the mower deck thinking the pto was holding up the starting process. After removing the belt, fan still won't move and ignition attempt results only in a loud click from the starter.
Would the PTO clutch damage/ failure cause a catastrophic system lock up like this?
I know this is an old post however do you still have the pics of your ht 3813 drive plate install if you do could you send them to me or direct me to where I might find them the links in the posts don't seem to work for me! thanks
I know this is an old post however would you still have a copy of the pics of the install on a honda ht3813 drive plate I have tried the links however I can't retrieve the pics ! If you could send them to me or provide me with a link that will get me there it would be much appreciated. thanks
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