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post #1 of 13 Old 09-09-2018, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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5518 bad sound

I snagged a 5518 somewhat on a whim for cheap $150, not running not even taking a current, both front tires are flat, but it came with a mowing deck in very good shape just a bit of surface rust so I figure I could always part it out. But in the mean time..... I messed with it awhile and was able to get it to crank over and start..... But it sounded like big marbles being tossed around up front. So I decided to do some exploratory surgery, I changed the oil, it was pitch black but no metal in it or the filter, so I opened the top end, and everything seemed good, valves, springs, cam, even pistons were good, no play up or down. I put it back together and it started up, making the same sound. It sounds like itís coming the governor, but when I looked in side it, I couldnít see any problem. But I did notice a spring from the arm on the governor arm over to the carb was missing, in the parts diagram the assembly is called control.

So Iím a bit stumped what the sound is. Is it the governor? It doesnít sound like slap, Iím looking for some ideas from others more knowledgeable about these little engines.

This is what it sounds like.

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-11-2018, 07:18 AM
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Re: 5518 bad sound

Sounds like a diesel
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-11-2018, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 5518 bad sound

Quote:
Originally Posted by lmichael View Post
Sounds like a diesel
Actually thatís the sound of a snapped drive shaft clanking around.

Good news is, minimal damage, and Ive got a new drive shaft on the way.
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-11-2018, 08:41 PM
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Re: 5518 bad sound

Congratulations on the price! That is a great deal for a 5518 even in it's current state.

Was the drive shaft engaging immediately on start up?

Keep us in the loop of your progress and best of luck.
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-13-2018, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 5518 bad sound

So the new drive shaft is in and the Honda runs like a champ! I figure next spring I'll probably replace the front tires, and I'm relubing the bearings in the mowing decks blade shafts, then I'll call it quits for the season. But we've had an unusually warm Fall in Maine, so decided to do a couple low cost cosmetic things.

There was a rip across the seat and some deterioration in the foam, so my off the shelf fix was some "Great Stuff" window and door foam to fill the gap. I've used this foam
before for something similar and had good luck with it staying very plyable over a long period of time and not becoming brittle. I shaved it down after it expanded and dried
and then broke out a can of "Plasti Dip" which I've used many times on old motorcycle seats. I brushed on five thin coats, letting each dry and added a thicker coat to help fill some voids in the foam and another thin coat. It is very pliable and strong bonding stuff, and is working great.

Finally I decided to do something about the paint that peeled off the hood and was faded on most red metal parts, so I got some rattle can IH Red (closest to Honda in the Majic paint line) at TSC, and gave it a new look. Though I'm not a big fan of their spray paint, when the temperature is right and you give a couple weeks to harden, I've found it to harden nicely. The Majic brand paint, with their hardener and thinner when sprayed with a good spray gun has worked excellent for me in the past but only having a very short window of warm weather and not too concerned about how a work machine looks, I thought the rattle can was the best option. It looks great, and about five days later the the paint is already very hard.

https://www.mytractorforum.com/attac...340253&thumb=1

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post #6 of 13 Old 10-13-2018, 10:47 AM
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Re: 5518 bad sound

Nice looking machine
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-03-2018, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5518 bad sound

Thanks! I just took care of an issue with it not starting when the weather started getting cold here in Maine. The CDI was starting to fail, so I did a repair to the CDI (cold solder joint issues) and it's back up and running without using the heat gun trick.
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-03-2018, 11:15 PM
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Re: 5518 bad sound

So, do you coat the whole seat w/ plasti-dip, or just the foamed area? Nice job BTW.
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-04-2018, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 5518 bad sound

"So, do you coat the whole seat w/ plasti-dip, or just the foamed area? Nice job BTW."


Thanks. Plastidip only on the seam. I foamed only the area where the crack was to fill the void. Then, I trimmed the foam back a bit with a razor so there was a slight channel in the foam, then brushed several thin layers of the Plastidip on and out from about .5" successively out to about 2" on either side of the seam with each thin coat (a bit like patching fiberglass on a boat, how I layered it). Then, when the last thin layer was dry I filled the concave area with Plastidip (I took the seat off), and once that dried, brushed on a couple more thin layers and feathered them out maybe 2.5" from the seam.

It's holding up and bonded with the seat's plastic nicely, no separation. I've done this on old motorcycle seats - I love older Honda motorcycles - so I figured it would work on the tractor seat too. So far, it does.

Last edited by JohnPainter; 11-04-2018 at 12:37 AM. Reason: clarification
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-04-2018, 09:32 AM
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Re: 5518 bad sound

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnPainter View Post
"So, do you coat the whole seat w/ plasti-dip, or just the foamed area? Nice job BTW."


Thanks. Plastidip only on the seam. I foamed only the area where the crack was to fill the void. Then, I trimmed the foam back a bit with a razor so there was a slight channel in the foam, then brushed several thin layers of the Plastidip on and out from about .5" successively out to about 2" on either side of the seam with each thin coat (a bit like patching fiberglass on a boat, how I layered it). Then, when the last thin layer was dry I filled the concave area with Plastidip (I took the seat off), and once that dried, brushed on a couple more thin layers and feathered them out maybe 2.5" from the seam.

It's holding up and bonded with the seat's plastic nicely, no separation. I've done this on old motorcycle seats - I love older Honda motorcycles - so I figured it would work on the tractor seat too. So far, it does.
Nice job - since you like to repair rubber/plastic, a tip if it serves, on the tires. If you can get those tires to hold air, unless the tread is gone, you can "revive" them. Back about 2005 all my tires had developed alligator cracking on the sidewalls and across the treads. We had a Doc chemical (retired) lab chief assist us on a project and he suggested saturating them with armour-all - the cracking was from the rubber shrinking as it dries out. I literally saturated them with armour-all and as i saturated a tire, i'd cover it entirely with a garbage bag, just to keep the alcohol vehicle used in it from drying out too quick. I left the tires bagged for 3-4 days, and **** if the cracks didn't nearly fully disappear, and i mean cracks in the rear tires that were showing 1/8" of the nylon braided belts.

A petrochemical engineer that was this forum told me the alcohol was "corrosive" (and that is the proper term) to the rubber but i haven't seen any damage or degradation to the rubber, and this is now 13-14 years later. For a few years i gave the tires that treatment at the end of the season, and since i've only done it every 3-4 years, but like i said, 13-14 years more life out of those tires and more to go.

in case that helps
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post #11 of 13 Old 11-04-2018, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 5518 bad sound

That sounds crazy enough that it might work, my brother is a retired petroleum engineer/executive from Conocophillips so I've heard plenty of pretty interesting stuff over the years you can do with petroleum based products but I haven't heard this one. I like it! My rear tires are in great condition, but the front tires are cracked like you described, but hold air just fine. I might just have to test your process, though the weather is starting to turn cold here maybe I can test it next weekend when I have a three day weekend. Thank you.
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post #12 of 13 Old 11-04-2018, 06:09 PM
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Re: 5518 bad sound

armour-all is basically latex based silicone - the alcohol is simply the VOC or vehicle carrying the latex silicone, which is why i used the garbage bags, to keep the alcohol from evaporating as long as possible to help it carry the silicone down deep into the rubber
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-01-2019, 08:24 PM
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Re: 5518 bad sound

What an awesome thread! How did I miss this one???
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