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1998 Craftsman EZ3 42" Rider

15K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  Hec In Omaha 
#1 · (Edited)
Howdy all!

Last weekend a co-worker gave me a 1998 Craftsman Rider. Model: 197.271110 Serial: 041398A006336.

It has the Kolher 16.5 Command Engine in it and runs very smooth. I would like to keep it and take it to our cabin and keep it there for mowing/bagging duty. I am going over the mower to make sure I address anything it might need. What's the difference between this rig and the LT1000 series?

Here is what I have found that needs repair so far:

1. Front wheels have play on the spindles. Wheel bushings probably worn out. Considering the bushing to bearing upgrade.
2. Battery was not being charged. I found the stator was not producing any AC voltage. I replaced the stator and all is good now!
3. Brakes are weak even after adjusting them. They are better than they were but I think they should be better. I plan on removing the brake assembly and inspecting the brake pucks to see how much life they still have.
4. Seat is pretty bad. Looking for a replacement now.
5. This mower has the knob to adjust the cutting height. However it does not have a height indicator scale on the left side of the dash panel. The manual doesn't show one but I'm pretty sure it had something to indicate where the mowing height was set.
6. Right side of deck has surface rust. I plan on removing the deck and wire wheeling the surface rust off then priming and paint.


Here is what I need:
1. 3-bin bagger assembly for it
2. Mower Deck discharge guard/flap
3. Mower height scale with pointer that mounts on the end of the lift shaft.
4. I would like to add a front mount thatcher but I don't know if its compatible with this mower.


Is this rig worth keeping? It seems to mow very nice. If you have any of the parts I need for sale please let me know!

As always your comments are appreciated.

Hec
 

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#2 ·
Hey that looks like a pretty serviceable machine! Nice.

My Craftsman 1996 deck rusted out and now has about 12 inches of patch steel on the right front corner of the deck. Suggest keep that clean and dry as you can.


Nice machine, Congratulations!!
 
#4 ·
Sears stop making parts after the product becomes 15 years old. I bought a discharge flap for my 2000 tractor and it took three months to get. I bought the chutes for the bagger system as well.

You can buy the rubber discharge flap at https://www.searspartsdirect.com/

The bagger system you can buy there but they stop making parts after 15 years so what you buy you will have to modify to fit your machine. I just bought a bottom chute and top chute and found out it wasn't long enough so I had to add on some 7 inch sheet metal duct to extend it into the bagger system. So, I had to make a modification.

The front mount dethatcher Sears use to make a front mounted dethatcher # 24312, you maybe able to google search it and find one at a Sears outlet store. I think they stop making the front mounted ones. I know they sell a tow behind one #24315.

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-40-...SellerId=Sears&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Husqvarna has a front mounted one that may or may not fit/ or you make modifications.

https://www.husqvarna.com/us/access...achments/40-front-mount-dethatcher/967343801/

HomeDepot has a BrinlyHardy front mounted dethatcher. You will have to make modifications to mount it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Brinly-...RYOBI-Electric-Riding-Mower-DT-38RY/307606515
 
#6 ·
Howdy All,

Tonight I pulled the right rear wheel off. To inspect the brakes. Pulling the wheel off was a bear but I got it off using a small bearing puller. The brake pucks are definitely worn out! The outer puck was about 1/8" thick and the inner one was about 1/4" thick. I ordered a new pair of brake pucks on Ebay for $11 including shipping! The listing description specs them out as 11/32" thick. So the new ones should help with the stopping power of this rig. Tomorrow I will pull off the front wheels and inspect the wheel bushings.

Hec
 
#8 ·
Bill,

That's what I was thinking. I wonder what the differences are between it an the LT1000?

Yesterday I mowed with it and it really mows well! I also learned that it doesn't like climbing steep hills. I tried mowing up a grade in my back yard and it stalled. It must be due to the gravity feed fuel delivery system and not having a fuel pump. I had to coast backwards to flat ground and she would then start and run fine. So I had to zoom up the hill to keep it from stalling, then turn around and mow downhill. Before I mowed I cleaned the contacts on the ignition switch and the 3 relays. I also applied dielectric grease to the connections. Oh yeah I noticed that the two yellow wires that run from the stator to one of the relays were getting hot. I swapped relays and they cooled off. When they heated up the ammeter was showing a discharge. I must have a bad relay. After I mowed I pressure washed it and it cleaned up nice! I have some parts ordered to make some necessary repairs. I ordered new brake pucks and a bushing to bearing conversion kit for the front wheels. I also have ordered a mower deck height indicator with pointer. Lastly I found a nice seat for it. Now I need to find a 3 bin bagger for it!

Hec
 

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#10 ·
U may find out the LT 1000 came with a 2 bin bagger.. not a 3..
 
#9 ·
I think you better recheck your 917.xxxxxx
A 271110 shows a 3 Amp charge system and ONE relay.

2 Yellow wires from the stator is a much higher capacity charging system.
Yellow wires plug into the Voltage Regulator.
Incorrect terminology is confusing.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Bill,

The owners manual for this thing is poor. Especially the electrical diagram. It shows only one relay in the electrical diagram but I have three. Today I worked on the tractor some more. I pulled the tank and installed new fuel line and filter. I had noticed that my fuel filter was never really filling up with gas. On two occasions I had the engine cut out on me, like it was out of gas, only to find it still half full. I topped off the tank and it fired right up again. Yes the vent on the gas cap is clear. Today I found a youtube video of a guy that was experiencing the exact same thing. His fuel filter and fuel line routing was just like mine too. See my first post to see how the fuel line was routed! What was happening was I was vaporizing the fuel in the line and filter. I replaced the fuel line with new 1/4" hose, and I tucked the filter next to the carb. I ensured that the fuel line was supported by the cradle attached to the throttle mechanism. As soon as I filled it up with gas the filter filled up with fuel too. I'll report back on this next week when I mow again to see if it does it again.
While I had the tank out I inspected the wiring to the relays. I found one relay plug connector to have wear marks in it in multiple spots. Some of the spots wore completely though and exposed the spade connector inside. I wonder if this was what was causing me all my grief with the yellow wires getting hot? Something going to ground that shouldn't. So I wrapped electrical tape around the plug as a temporary fix. I have ordered a new plug to replace the damaged plug. While I was at it I also tie-wrapped each solenoid to the wire loom so they can't flop around and rub against the frame or dash metal.
I also removed the front tires and popped out the wheel bushings in preparation for my front wheel bushing to bearing kit arriving tomorrow. Both outer bushings had a lot of slop. The right wheel was missing one of the washers too!:fing20: Luckily for me the spindles didn't get damaged. I also noticed that the spindle bushings are worn too, especially the right one. So new bushings have been ordered for both sides. Hopefully the new spindle bushings will help tighten up the steering.

That's all for now

Hec
 

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#13 · (Edited)
Bill,

I did recheck, as I stated in my first post on this thread Model: 197.271110 Serial: 041398A006336. Attached is a picture of the Name Plate under the seat. This tractor was a co-workers Father In-laws, who passed away. His Father In-Law was the only owner. According to my co-worker, the tractor was only taken into a local mower shop now and then for belts, blade replacement, and oil changes. He doesn't think the fender deck was ever replaced and judging by the nuts and bolts on this thing a wrench has never touched them.

I'm stumped.

Hec
 

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#15 ·
Bill,

Thank you for the circuit diagram! That sure looks like it! I think someone on the assembly line goofed on my model number sticker! So the two yellow wires that were getting hot that I referring to are for a stator brake! I can tell you that the stator brake works! When I shut down the engine you can hear brake stop the flywheel. I thought it was stopping on a compression stroke. At least now I know it has a stator brake. By the way my engine is a Kohler CV16S-43513.

Hec
 

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#16 ·
I believe the problem is solved.
Looking at the date code, it was built on a Monday. April 13, 1998.
They forgot to add "1" to the model#.
You have a 272111.
Link to Owners Manual.
https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/pd_download/lis_pdf/OWNM/98120012.pdf

I looked through my home made database by engine and came up with 4 that had that identical engine.
3 had the same schematic as your manual and the 4th didn't.
271110, 120, 121.
Typically, the identical engine would have the identical schematic.
This is the 2nd case I remember. The other time was a CV16S--43519
I guess I'll have to make a mental note.
 
#17 ·
Bill,

That's pretty nice problem solving! I browsed through the owners manual for the 272111 and it looks right. I should check the transaxle to see who the manufacturer is and compare it to this manual.
On a side note. It doesn't show the deck height adjustment scale just like the 271110. I ordered the scale as is shown on the 271071 manual page 44. Its a PIA to to see what the cutting height is set to without it! You would think that if you have the infinite adjustment knob that you would automatically get the deck height adjustment scale to go with it!

Thanks for your help. I appreciate it!:trink39:

Hec
 
#18 ·
Good idea about the transaxle.
I believe one is a Dana/Foote/Spicer (110) and the other is a Peerless/Tecumseh (111)

They also have different drive belt #'s.
Maybe you have a sticker on the tractor with the part#'s and don't even have to crawl under it?
 
#19 · (Edited)
Bill,

Here is a blurry shot of the sticker on the transaxle. It is Spicer 4360-122. Just like the 917.271110 manual sez. I also just noticed that the same manual for 217.271110 page 30 ,which is the electrical schematic, indicates the model number as 917.270720. So the manual has a page in it for another model! What the heck. :fing20: I think I do have a 217.271110 then.

Hec
 

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#21 ·
Howdy All,

Just an update on my 1998 EZ3 42" Rider.

Made some progress fixing things just plain wore out after 20 years of service.

* I installed new brake pucks and thoroughly cleaned and lubricated the brake assembly, pins, actuating lever and transaxle disc brake shaft with never seize. The brakes now work great! The pedal is no longer stiff and she stops on a dime.

* I rebuilt the wheel spindle bushings.
* I removed the front wheel bushings and replaced them with flanged bearings. Now the all the wheel wobble is gone and she drives and steers smooth! The steering also tightened up too! Nice!
* I replaced the cracked relay plug housing. I was able to push out the old spade fittings from the old plug and simply reinsert them in the new plug housing.
* I replaced the fuse holder with a rubber waterproof mini fuse holder with a 30A fuse. The holder has a rubber cover that goes over the fuse. My old fuse holder was shot and the old fuse actually broke off one of the spades in the old fuse holder. The mini fuses are easier to find, and that's why I upgraded to the mini fuse holder vs. a standard fuse holder.
* I installed a fuel shut off valve in the fuel line.
* I installed a very nice 2 bin hard bagger. I posted an ad on Craigslist and received a reply from a guy that had a bagger he bought new in 2000. He said he only used it twice. It sat in his shed for 19 years. Its in excellent shape with no cracks, and the decals on it are very nice. He also gave me a mulch plug. All for $100. I mowed my front yard and bagged today and the mower and bagger did great!

So far the mower is running great and is way more reliable than when I first got it! I also found a seat that's in much better condition and is due to arrive next week. Can't wait.

That's all for now.

Hec
 
#22 ·
Update,


The mulch plug given to me with the bagger fits much better than the one that came with the mower. It fits perfect and has no gaps unlike the other mulch plug. The other mulch plug would leave my right leg and right side of the deck covered in grass due to the poor fit. The mulch plug had little stand offs on the bottom and a slot cut in in the top for a tab to fit though. This tab is found on some decks and is part of the discharge chute bracket. My deck didn't have the tab so grass would blow through the tab slot. I think this contributed to the rust on the discharge side of the deck. All the grass laying on the top of the deck on the right side created the corrosion. With the new mulch plug I am now set for mulching! Deck stays much cleaner with the new mulch plug! This mower does an excellent job of mulching and bagging even with the mulching blades. I'm impressed with the cut.
Yesterday I decided to pull the deck off and do some further inspections since I have the engine, steering, and electrical issues all figured out. Upon inspection, I discovered the two idler pulleys bearings felt a little gravely. I also discovered that the brake pads for the deck pulleys had just about worn through the brake material. The spindles were in rough shape too. So I took the deck completely apart and pressure washed the deck. Most of the paint, at least I think it was paint, blasted off with the pressure washer. So a deck rebuild is in order here. These rod actuated decks are getting hard to find so I figured I better try and save this one. The metal is a little pitted underneath the deck and on the right side top. The rest is very sound.

I ordered:
* two new spindle assemblies
* a new belt
* 2 new brake arms
* 2 new idler pulleys
* 2 mandrel strippers.

I will reuse the rest of the parts as they are in great shape. The blades on the deck appear to be new!

The deck is being sandblasted and should be ready for pick up tomorrow. I make take and angle grinder with a flap disc and clean up the pits a bit before I refinish it. I have been debating on whether to prime and paint it with gloss black tractor enamel or powder coat it. I powder coated my 38" 2-blade deck on my 1978 John Deere 210 and its held up well. What do you guys think? Powder coat or paint?

That's all for now.

Hec
 

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#23 ·
Update,

Got my deck back from Sandblasting yesterday. It definitely looks better. Its also pretty pitted. So I took a wire wheel to the deck and dropped it off for powder coating. I have a buddy that does a lot of powder coating for local business and will through it in with his next batch of gloss black. Should be done next week. He is charging me $75 for the deck, scalp wheel brackets, mandrel pulleys, all the brackets. About the only thing his isn't powder coating is the control rods, mandrels, brake arms and idler pulleys. BTW, the new idler pulleys, mandrels, belt, and brake arms arrived in the mail. Should have this back up in running in no time. I already took the sealed bearings rubber seal off and injected the bearing with more high temp grease using a grease gun and a grease injection needle and replaced the seals. The extra shot of grease should make them last a long time. The powder coating will eventually wear off underneath the deck but the top will stay nicely protected.

Here is what the deck looked like after sandblasting and wire wheeling


Hec
 

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#24 ·
#26 ·
Whirly and Kubota Ronin,

I just wanted to clarify. The new spindle assemblies came with a new set of sealed bearings. They also came from India. So I disassembled the spindles and using a dentist pick popped one of the rubber seals off each bearing. Then I used a grease gun with high temp grease and an injection needle and added more grease into the bearing cages of each bearing. Those bearings only seemed to have a very light coating of clear grease on them.The injection needle resembles a hypodermic needle with a zerk fitting on the end. It is very small in diameter. Then I popped the seals back on the bearings. The seals just pop on and off and are only a press fit. I tested the new spindle bearings by spinning them using a drill with an extension and socket chucked in it. The seals held up fine. So all rotating parts have new bearings in them and I am not reusing any old bearings. I agree with you, it would be crazy to reuse the old bearings.:tsk:

Hec
 
#27 · (Edited)
Howdy All!

Update:

Today I compared the new replacement brake arms to the originals and there is ,in my opinion, 1 significant difference. See pictures below. Note that the original brake arm has a guide roller made up of a bolt, nylon lock nut and bushing. This configuration allows the bushing to roll and therefore glide as it guides the brake arm in and out of position. The brake arm guide makes contact with the Arm Idler( #55 in the diagram),as the deck engagement is actuated. The new brake arm guide is riveted on the brake arm. Initially the new guides would not rotate for me. So I gave it a shot of WD-40 and grabbed it with a pair of channel locks in an attempt to get it to spin. It spun alright but the rivet is spinning not the bushing! That's not good. The rivet will eventually fail by wearing a hole in the brake arm. I don't think these new brake arm guides where designed to rotate and if they where they are not serviceable like the originals. If they can't rotate, the guide will eventually wear a divot in the Arm Idler ( #55 in the diagram).
There is a video on you tube where Taryl Fixes All addresses repairing the divots in the Arm idler (probably caused by these non rotating new style guides). However he doesn't address how to prevent this from happening again! As you can see in the video the divots will cause the deck engagement to get stuck. Don't want that! My arm idler has no divots at all and shows no sign of wear due to the brake arm guides and its 1998 vintage! It seems that the older design was a better one! Therefore, I am going to drill out the rivets on the new brake arms and install the old original guide roller assemblies in their place. I lube them up with never seize and they will be good to go!

So if you have a deck that won't engage properly, watch the video on how to fix the Arm Idler and consider adding rotating brake arm guide assemblies to your brake arms, if you have guides that are the riveted type.

My two cents!


Hec
 

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#28 ·
Well She's as done as she's going to get!

This weekend I got the deck and some of the deck parts back from the powder coating shop. It sure looks a lot better than it did! At least the deck is better protected against future corrosion now. I always take a leaf blower to the whole tractor each time after mowing and it won't get neglected like the P.O. did. The parts that didn't get powder-coated received primer and two coats of gloss black enamel. This includes the control rods, brake arm springs, specialty fasteners and the new deck spindle housings. I took the new deck spindle assemblies apart and primed and painted the aluminum housings to give them some protection against corrosion due to moisture and grass clippings. I did run out of black paint and did not paint the deck blades. Oh well. The deck assembly went well. All I can say is that I am glad that I took lots of pictures of the disassembly process. :tango_face_grin: I ran a tap through all threaded holes as the powder-coating found its way in there. I applied anti-seize to the spindle mounting bolt threads so the carbon steel bolts wont rust inside the aluminum housings. I put blue loctite on fasteners that did not have locking nuts too. With the exception of some specialty hardware, all new hardware was installed too! Once I had the deck all together I installed a new belt and mounted the deck to the tractor.
I mowed with it yesterday and all I can say is both the engine and deck run perfectly smooth. No weird vibrations, smells, or sounds. The deck engages and disengages as it should without any issues. I bagged with it and can say that increasing the WOT "No Load" RPM from 3,100 RPM's to 3,500 RPM's made a difference in the amount of vacuum and discharge air velocity created by the deck. The red spinning wheel on the bagger chute really spins now! My yard was tall and had damp leaves mixed in. I haven't mowed in over 2 weeks due to the rain we have been having. The cutting height was set to 3" and the bagger did great!
So hopefully I have addressed everything that needed repair on this nice old "FREE:tango_face_wink:" tractor. The brakes are fixed, electrical gremlins fixed, fuel vapor locking fixed, Front spindle bushings removed and replaced with bearings , replaced the torn up seat, and an oil change and filter. She should be good to go for years with routine maintenance. This Friday it will be loaded up on a trailer and I will haul it 500 miles up to Ottertail Minnesota to our our riverside cabin, where it will assume mowing chores up there. Sure will be nice having a rider. I been push mowing a 1 acre back yard. Takes me 3 tanks of gas on the push mower to get it done. I will be up there this weekend to winterize the cabin for the season.


That's all for now.
Hec
 

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#29 ·
When you drop it off in MN, bring the battery back with you and plop it in a dry, conditioned space. Some say place on a board, but I don't think that matters.
Put a charger on the battery at least once a month and bring it back to full charge.
If you leave it in an unheated storage space, when it discharges a while from now, the electrolyte may freeze. That would likely crack the case, leading to failure. Even just putting it in the basement or entry hall behind the door... is better than leaving it to freeze.
I got new brake arms, Stens/Oregon/??, I don't think AYP, and they had rollers. I made sure to squeeze some grease between the roller and the pin/shaft as I figured they would soon rust, and become sliders instead of rollers. Never seize may work, but I chose something more substantial. We'll see, but it's been a couple years without obvious complaint. When I go to release the blade/PTO, I have to let it go slowly as the brake arms want to speed back to the pulley edge and I want to keep the pads from getting grooved.
Powder coat on the upper surface sure looks nice. I used rattle can, and can live with that. Oh, don't forget to drain the tank and empty out the float bowl. If you get it hot, and change the oil immediately after, you'll leave it over the winter with fresh lube on the cylinder wall and the bearings, rather than old oil. Make a difference? I dunno. But you are ready to go when things get warmer. Just plop in the battery and add fuel.
I got some 'sand blades' that have lasted without needing to be cleaned or sharpened for several years. They are thicker than the originals, and close to a Snapper blade in thickness. I'd buy them again. Don't need paint, either.
tom
 
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