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post #16 of 31 Old 07-15-2019, 08:52 AM
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Re: 2004 lt1000

I have seen people use ball peen hammers, roundy end, to tap on gaskets. Once hammered/tapped, the gaskets seemed to come off more readily. I think the impact expands the black 'paper' gasket material, causing it to move on the gasket surface, breaking free, perhaps. Once freed, it is a lot easier to scrape off that which remains.
I tried it once, and it sort of worked, though the gasket area was not really as accessible as a pan gasket. There is also a 3M product called 'Roloc', I think, that can be used in a grinder or an air powered whirly cutoff grinder to remove gasket material. I think they are made of some sort of rubber, with rubber bristles that peel the gasket without removing metal. I just looked on bing, and it may be more expensive than I had thought.
You have that sump clean enough to cook in. Hope the previous owner didn't mess things up running with diluted lube or bent the connecting rod cranking with a hydro locked piston.
tom

Added: I am also a fan of the Kohler powered Craftsman/Husqvarna/Poulan/Weedeater machines. As time went on, the mechanisms for brake, deck engage, and lift became a bit less sturdy, IMO. They may have also made the deck stamping a bit less deep, but I haven't measured, they just look thinner. Compared to the competition, it seems they did not remove as much content, but the newer models appear less sturdy to me.
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post #17 of 31 Old 07-15-2019, 02:47 PM
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Re: 2004 lt1000

Well. Apparently the 'edit' feature goes away. So. Here:

Roloc small setup for less than $20:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-08574-GA...4AAOSwf2pcngZH

Half dozen disks of various grit, holder, for use in a drill. I thought the green things with the 'fingers' were what I was referring to, but these may also work. Ignorance right here on display. Not gonna dig in too deep.
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post #18 of 31 Old 07-17-2019, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

Tom, I have seen the rubber/plastic gasket removal disk with fingers but haven't used one. I just use a razor blade tool then go over it with a fine wire wheel on a drill.
I got the engine back together and mounted on the mower. It is running but I still have some wiring work to do. I can't get the coil ground/kill to work. When I put the test light on the positive battery terminal and the kill wire I get a very dim light. It's like the ground is not coming through the switch to the kill circuit. This is one of the newer plastic switches and I have had trouble with them on My Husqvarna before.
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post #19 of 31 Old 07-18-2019, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

This morning I tried to start it without priming with carb cleaner by using the choke. It did start but the choke will not go off without me moving the lever. The spring looks to be working but the carb is so nasty it can't push the choke off. I made a video of it starting and running but didn't use the choke. I sprayed it off with cleaner but it's still not freed up.
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post #20 of 31 Old 07-18-2019, 09:58 AM
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Re: 2004 lt1000

Those Intek engines are noted for sticky chokes...I've taken the little spring and given a few an extra turn to get it to return......or just reach in and push the lever back
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post #21 of 31 Old 07-18-2019, 10:55 AM
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Re: 2004 lt1000

Definitely a common problem on the older ones. What happens is the plastic that slides down into the aluminum carburetor starts to swell up as it gets older and it sticks in the holes. It sits in a recessed hole in the bottom and of course around the top where it slides through and both areas get kind of fat and prevent the plastic from flipping back and forth with a spring pressure. Just take the air filter housing off pull the brass choke plate straight out from the front with needle-nose pliers then you can lift the choke rod right up. Be careful with the linkage or take that off first. I use some medium grit sandpaper to sand down the plastic at the bottom and around the top where it will fit into the hole. Once you test it and it has plenty of clearance to spend freely lube it with some spray grease and put it back on and tension the spring the proper turn around. This always solves the problem of sticking chokes for me.
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post #22 of 31 Old 07-19-2019, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

I worked on the choke today. I took the shaft out, sanded it until it was free and put it back in. When I pushed the butterfly in it tightened up again so I gave it another round of sanding. It seems to be working good now. I've heard of Husky/Poulan chainsaw fuel caps swelling up but it didn't occur to me that a choke shaft would do that. I couldn't get the kill circuit to work again today. I removed the switch and with the key in the off position there was no continuity between the G and M pins. I decided I would take it apart and see what was inside but when I opened it up crap flew everywhere. If this tractor had the old stile mounting hole I would adapt a metal switch but the plastic switches are cheap so I guess I'll buy the right one.
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post #23 of 31 Old 07-23-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

The switch arrived yesterday and that fixed the issue with the kill wire. I need to repair a little more wiring to be sure the battery is changing.
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post #24 of 31 Old 07-25-2019, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

Yesterday I finished hooking up the charging circuit,
Put a tube in one front tire that was flat again.
Replaced the two small bushings on the drag Link,
And put the hood back on.
This morning I drove it to the mailbox and back and check to be sure it was charging. The transmission seemed stiff but loosened up in the 2 minutes I drove it, all the gears work. I have a black 20hp flywheel cover (no air filter cover) I may have to put on it but I'm going to look around for a the correct one. I still need to go through the deck and see whats wrong with it.
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post #25 of 31 Old 07-27-2019, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

I worked on the deck a while this morning. I spray lubed all the moving parts, used a grease needle to add grease to the idler bearings and replaced the spindle brake pads. I turned the deck over and removed the blades to sharpen them and found that the stars on the spindles are completely ruined. It'll need 2 new spindles at least. I do my share of dumb stuff but how do people fail to put the blade on the star before tightening the bolt?
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post #26 of 31 Old 07-27-2019, 12:15 PM
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Re: 2004 lt1000

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Originally Posted by Cannon51 View Post
I worked on the deck a while this morning. I spray lubed all the moving parts, used a grease needle to add grease to the idler bearings and replaced the spindle brake pads. I turned the deck over and removed the blades to sharpen them and found that the stars on the spindles are completely ruined. It'll need 2 new spindles at least. I do my share of dumb stuff but how do people fail to put the blade on the star before tightening the bolt?
Cannon
Glad to hear you are progressing. I picked up two valve cover gaskets Thursday so I can fix my widow friend’s LT1000. I don’t think anyone has messed with it like the one you have. If I crank it backwards by hand, often I can get it to start and it runs pretty well. After it warms up, it will start normally. I was going to fix it the other day and remembered my grandson was coming in a couple weeks and thought it would be a good learning experience. Repair at the local lawn repair dealer was estimated at $80. Once I saw a couple YouTube videos I decided I could probably fix it and save the widow some money. She has other tractors to use in the meantime. Good luck with the deck.

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post #27 of 31 Old 07-27-2019, 10:04 PM
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Re: 2004 lt1000

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Originally Posted by Cannon51 View Post
I worked on the deck a while this morning. I spray lubed all the moving parts, used a grease needle to add grease to the idler bearings and replaced the spindle brake pads. I turned the deck over and removed the blades to sharpen them and found that the stars on the spindles are completely ruined. It'll need 2 new spindles at least. I do my share of dumb stuff but how do people fail to put the blade on the star before tightening the bolt?
Cannon
The deck on the LT1000's are a pain to take off/put back on, so people just jack up the mower and do it from underneath. From there it's real easy to get it wrong.
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post #28 of 31 Old 07-28-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

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The deck on the LT1000's are a pain to take off/put back on, so people just jack up the mower and do it from underneath. From there it's real easy to get it wrong.
That's probably right. I always remove the decks to clean and lube all the moving parts when I change or sharpen blades.
How's the 1864 coming along.
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post #29 of 31 Old 07-28-2019, 06:45 PM
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Re: 2004 lt1000

The 1864 sits in the garage while I gather some ambition to replace the head gaskets. The JD 212 is doing the Cub's duties for now. Other projects have taken up my time.

I was putting blades on a Troy-Bilt the other day using the jacked-up mower method and realized that I could easily tighten the blade and not get it positioned correctly on the spindle star. I was trying to save some time because I was on the clock to deliver it. On my machines I also remove the deck to replace/sharpen blades.
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post #30 of 31 Old 07-29-2019, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 2004 lt1000

Today I replaced the spindles in the deck. I had 2 that I had ordered for another deck a few years ago. On that deck the housings were wallowed out and the bearings were loose, I put 2 complete spindle assembles in that one. One of the "Good" rear tires I put on it was low so I tubed it. I had a flywheel cover off a 20 hp that I put on but it didn't have the filter cover. I went to my brothers looking for one, he had 2 engines but both were missing the cover. Apparently the filter cover is the first thing people throw in the garbage.
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