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post #1 of 16 Old 10-20-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

I've been chasing down some hydraulic issues on my 1987 332.

When the 47" quick hitch snowblower is full of snow, the hydraulics will barely lift it, and won't lift to full lift. It also drifts down over time.

The H2 control valve was popping out of float position. I rebuilt the valve. New spool seals and lift check plunger and spring. It now stays in float nice and tight. The hitch still drifts down and I haven't tested to see if it will lift a plugged up blower. All the snow melted, thankfully!

I had the lift cylinder tested and it is good.

I got a 2000psi gauge and hooked it to the front lift port couplers to see what pressures the system was putting out.

I only got 725psi +/-.

The manual states the implement relief valve pressure test should read 850-975psi. That is a reading taken from the top of the pump itself.

Was my method accurate or will I have to re-do it?

If my system is only putting out 725psi, what needs to be done to increase the pressure for the implements?
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-20-2019, 02:55 PM
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

You can shim the implement relief valve to raise the pressure. Shims are available from Deere, but I found some washers at the hardware store that worked for me on my 455.
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Charge pressure test | John Deere 318 User Manual | Page 366 / 440
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-20-2019, 03:11 PM
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

Tracs, looking at the schematics for a 332, I can't see any actual "test port" so your procedure is correct, BUT!

Pressure from the charge pump flows to the steering valve, through the hyd control valve, and then to front ports (when lever is pulled.) You've rebuilt the control valve, so I'd say leakage/bypass in steering valve, weak implement relief valve, or worn charge pump. Also, was 725psi at WOT?

Hitch drifting is worn lift cylinder. When tested, was it pressurized from one side of cylinder and then leak down check, and then from the other side and leak down checked? Drift from lift cylinder can ONLY be 2 things: by passing in cylinder or by passing in control valve. Bob
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-20-2019, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
Tracs, looking at the schematics for a 332, I can't see any actual "test port" so your procedure is correct, BUT!

Pressure from the charge pump flows to the steering valve, through the hyd control valve, and then to front ports (when lever is pulled.) You've rebuilt the control valve, so I'd say leakage/bypass in steering valve, weak implement relief valve, or worn charge pump. Also, was 725psi at WOT?

Hitch drifting is worn lift cylinder. When tested, was it pressurized from one side of cylinder and then leak down check, and then from the other side and leak down checked? Drift from lift cylinder can ONLY be 2 things: by passing in cylinder or by passing in control valve. Bob
The steering valve was rebuilt 2 years ago. It was leaking externally so I had the JD rebuild kit put in.

The 725psi was at idle. I just re-tested it at full throttle. Cold I got 870psi but once warmed up it dropped to 840psi. 10psi below the lower limit in the manual.

I made a video of the pressure gauge during the test. When I pulled the lever back into lift position the pressure shoots up but as soon as I release the lever and it returns to center, the pressure drops off quit quickly. I don't know if it is supposed to or not.

I guess I could shim for another 100psi.

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post #5 of 16 Old 10-20-2019, 11:57 PM
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracs View Post
When I pulled the lever back into lift position the pressure shoots up but as soon as I release the lever and it returns to center, the pressure drops off quit quickly. I don't know if it is supposed to or not.

I guess I could shim for another 100psi.
Normal.

The difference between fully pressurized and no pressure is about 3 drops of fluid. There's enough clearance between the spool and the valve body to pass that tiny bit of pressurized fluid in short order.

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post #6 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 12:00 PM
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

Just for reference my 332 which has NOT been shimmed reads 1000 PSI at full throttle at the front outlets . That was tested this year with a brand new 2000 PSI gauge and a 24 " long hose on the gauge .
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfuerst317 View Post
Just for reference my 332 which has NOT been shimmed reads 1000 PSI at full throttle at the front outlets . That was tested this year with a brand new 2000 PSI gauge and a 24 " long hose on the gauge .
Thanks for the info!
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 04:11 PM
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

Tracs, One quick comment, have verified engine rpm at WOT? You saw the difference between idle & WOT, maybe yours is a touch low (??) My TM1591 states 3425rpm @ fast idle. Bob
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

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Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
Tracs, One quick comment, have verified engine rpm at WOT? You saw the difference between idle & WOT, maybe yours is a touch low (??) My TM1591 states 3425rpm @ fast idle. Bob
I did check that with a digital contact tachometer pressed to the center of the splined shaft coming out the back of the charge pump. I was around 3500 rpm.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

I'm going to add a shim to the implement relief and see what happens. Its just too bad I have homemade cab bolted down. It's quite the pain to remove.
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

Anyone know a starting point size for a washer? I thought I read somewhere someone used M5 washers.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 07:50 PM
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

Thin. If I'm not mistaken, the thin one is 0.2 mm (0.008"), and the thick one is 0.5 mm (0.020").

I've used aluminum pop cans and pie plates for shim stock for drive shafts in a pinch, but I wouldn't use aluminum for shimming a relief valve. Steel and brass shim stock is available in various thicknesses at some auto parts stores and at industrial supply houses. Use the steel and cut them out with tin snips.

File off the burrs. A small window glass with 400 wet/dry sandpaper taped to it, and a rubber pad (inner tube attached to a wood block) for holding the shim works. Use a circular motion not straight line.

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post #13 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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I took everything apart to get at the relief valve.

Filed down a steel washer to about .52mm. Ran the tractor WOT working the levers for 5 minutes. Tested the pressure and got 957 PSI.

But I checked the RPM and found 3550 RPM.

JD 332 manual states 3425 and JD 220 series engine manual states 3350 +/- 100 RPM.

Should I turn my RPM down 100? If I do I have to re-do the shim.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-21-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 332 hyrdaulic pressure

OK. I brought the WOT to 3450 RPM.

Re-shimmed and settle with 971 PSI hot.

While I have things apart, should I take out the 2 hydro relief valves and give them a going over? They pop up and down no problem. In fact pushing them down, they pop up without the tractor running.
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post #15 of 16 Old 10-22-2019, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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While I was in there I checked the hydro valves. Looked brand new.

Also checked the charge pressure. Got 145psi. Manual states 90-180 psi. I left it alone.
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